Cylinder condition pics

I was just wondering what you guys think about my cylinder. Is it good or what? Should I just deglaze, clean and install? Any insight would be appreciated. Parts started coming in today so I'm about to the top end this weekend. I know I posted these pics before but I'm just trying to get it right and not have all my money go down the drain since this will be my first rebuild. Thanks in advance






Edited by cordlaw

Can not accurately tell condition of cylinder piston in the way. The cylinder wall just under the exhaust port is the highest wear spot And with the cylinder still on the bottom end and the piston in the way can see like half of the cylinder surface.

yeah pull it and wash it nicely before posting pictures. 

Can't tell with the jug on.


I would NEVER deglaze a used jug


Next time drain the coolant first to avoid this mess

Jetting looks good with the carbon pattern on the piston.

You need to measure the bore for an accurate size, pictures are really useless without bore sizes. If you can see any plating peeling away or feel any of those score's with your finger nail then likely it will need a replate.

looks like the plating is worn off in a few area's

I will post more pics once I remove the jug

Update...jus pooped the cylinder off still have a light x hatch and cant feel no scracthes with my fingernail here r the pic let me know what you guys think






Use a green scotch brite pad on the glazed areas in a cross pattern. Use some oil to lubricate when you do it. Then clean it a few times with WD40 and clean rag until you don't see anymore black on the rag.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By drzvfr
      I did the fix last night and took some pics and notes to make this easy on people that haven't done it and want more detail. Please chime in if you think I've missed something.
      Required Tools:
      Set of Allen wrenches
      #3 Phillips screwdriver
      small flat head screwdriver
      8 & 10 mm sockets
      13 mm open end wrench (I needed this to remove my skid plate)
      snap ring pliers
      gasket scraper
      compressed air
      Required Parts:
      New clutch cover gasket, Suzuki Part # 11482-29F00
      Tube or can of RTV sealant
      Oil filter and oil (if you plan to change the oil)
      1. Remove your skid plate (if you have one). I have a Tonn's skid plate and it was in the way.
      2. Remove right side radiator cover.
      3. Unbolt the rear brake lever. This will require removing a cotter pin on the backside of the bolt, and then the bolt itself. I was able to swing the lever far enough out of the way without completely removing it from the bike (see pic).

      4. Drain the coolant. This requires removing the radiator cap and the small bolt on the water pump, which has an aluminum washer on it. I rocked the bike from side to side to get most of the coolant out of the bike.
      5. The oil, two options here. You can either drain the oil and remove the oil filter or you can do what I did which is lay the bike on its left side to keep the oil from pouring out of the engine when you remove the clutch cover. I still removed the oil filter so I could clean the clutch cover with brake clean after scraping the old gasket off.
      6. Loosen the hose clamp on the coolant hose that attaches to the top of the water pump and fold the hose out of the way.
      7. Remove the water pump cover and the clutch cover by removing the bolts holding them on. Note that some of the bolts are of different sizes so keep track of which hole you pulled them from. Also, not all of the bolts need be removed, see the pic below.

      8. Remove the old gasket from the clutch cover and/or the engine with your gasket scraper. I then cleaned the clutch cover with brake cleaner as it was fairly oily.
      9. With your snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring from the plastic gear on the clutch cover seen here:

      10. Remove the plastic gear.
      11. Push out the metal pin and remove the washer underneath as seen here:

      12. With a screwdriver or whatever your preferred tool, remove the “E” clip as seen here:

      13. After removing the “E” clip push the water pump shaft out of the clutch cover.
      14. You will now have the part in your hand that needs fixing. Remove the porcelain gasket at the bottom of the shaft by blowing it with compressed air. Don’t not pry it with a screwdriver as it could damage the gasket. Mine was stuck fairly well so I sprayed some WD-40 on first to loosen it up.
      15. If you used WD-40 clean the shaft and gasket with some brake cleaner and then apply the RTV sealant to this area (I reused this pic as its perfect):

      16. Push the gasket back down flush on the shaft wiping away any excess RTV that may flow out.
      17. Reassemble the shaft into the clutch cover in reverse order as listed in steps 9-13.
      18. Place your new clutch cover gasket on the engine and then place the cover back onto the bike.
      19. Put the bolts back into the clutch and water pump cover and tighten equally. I could not find a torque setting for these in the manual so I snugged them evenly.
      20. Put the oil filter or a new one in the bike and put the oil filter cover back on.
      21. Re-attach the brake lever and tighten the bolt to 21 ft lbs. Be sure to install a new cotter pin on the backside of the bolt.
      22. If you drained your oil, refill the crankcase with the proper amount. If you didn’t drain the oil be sure you have enough in the crankcase from oil lost from removing the clutch cover.
      23. Let bike sit for 24 hours to let the RTV set up before adding coolant.
      24. Re-attach the coolant hose to the top of the water pump and tighten the hose clamp.
      25. Fill the radiator with a “Silicate Free” anti-freeze and put the radiator cap back on and tighten the radiator cap screw.
      26. Put the radiator cover and your skid plate back on the bike.
      27. You are done, go ride!
      This post has been promoted to a wiki
    • By chip6565
      I bought the GYTR weighted flywheel and was actually reluctant to put it on fearing it would rob me of lowend, and make the bike feel lazy. So, I finally gave it a try, and wow, what a difference!
      In recent weeks I put on a ported cylinder, a shorty silencer, and dropped one tooth on the rear sprcket. None of which made a noticable improvement.
      Now on to the Flywheel weight. A friend who I ride with also has one on his bike and he is always so much smoother in the corners. He actually feared me puting in on! Well his feers were well founded. He now has the best view!
      From the instant I pulled away I could feel the difference. The bike actually felt 4-stroke like. Not necessarily a good thing in a two-stroke world but in a good way. Instead of blowing through the gears it wound-up like a wide ratio transmission (on the bottom) and didn't rob from the top. It was like I traded HP for torque on the bottom. My corner speed was NOTICIBLY faster in the first lap.
      Needless to say, for now I am sold and will leave it on!
    • By MotoRyder2
      Has anyone had any luck in making their own gaskets for their bike?
      I've done this a few times for my Accord and my boat but I haven't tried on my YZ250. I've been able to do a really good job, using an exacto knife or a razor blade, making them pretty identical to their original...
      Anyways, If anyone has, if you could let me know what material you used or your results, I'd appreciate it.
    • By anthonyzx10r
      kick start kit why do we need this ?? is the starter not very good ? why add weight to the bike .
    • By x2468
      Apparently rekluse has an all new auto clutch that is completely redesigned from their old model, called the Rekluse EXP. Motocross action has a small write up on it. apparently it is easier to install and maintain. all of the parts are contained in a single, large disc that you install in one shot, and uses a series of weights instead of ball bearings. there is a small news clip on Rekluses website, but interestingly it doesn't mention anything the MXA write up did, and mentions some things it didn't. it says that you can switch the bike from manual to autoclutch in a few minutes, and the clutch action feels even better than the rekluse pro.
      MXA says it will retail for 700. not much more than the rekluse pro.
      just figured i'd share