DRZ400e hanging idle

2001 DRZ400e, fcr slant, bike idles around 1500rpm (on tacho), when you blip the throttle a little, the bike revs and comes back down and sits on 2000rpm, and wont go back down to 1500 unless you put the bike in 1st gear and let out the clutch a little, if you blip the throttle even more, it will rev higher and sit on 4000rpm. same result, wont go down unless you let the clutch out a little while its in gear. Can anyone help me figure this out? (the carb has been cleaned many times, nothing is clogged, trust me) yes there is slack in the throttle cables. Bike also does this weird thing where it will idle normal when its standing up straight no kickstand, and then when you lean the bike on the stand it will idle a little bit higher. please help :D

 

fcr slant, carb very clean, no KNOWN air leaks, 162 main, 45 pilot, 65 starter, All JD Jets, JD blue needle 4th clip, brand new float, new seat, new seat o ring, correct float height, fuel screw 2 1/4 to 1/2 turns out (cant remember exact),  all stock air jets.

 

1.  Set your float height to factory specs (sudco.com)

2.  Get an R&D fuel screw so you can adjust the fuel screw everytime the weather changes

3.  Get a new slide plate seal (part of your problem). Make sure the slide plate goes in with the hole on the bottom

4.   Follow the CORRECT procedure for adjusting the pilot jet size and fuel screw

 

Get the motor hot
Turn the fuel screw to 1 turn out

Lower the idle as low as it will go

Turn the fuel screw OUT to raise the idle to 1500-1800 recommended rpm range. **

Now, blip the throttle, and listen to the rpms drop. You adjust the fuel screw n 1/8 turns after three blips, listening for the fastest drop.

 

** if the idle is too high, start again with 1.25 turns out, and lower the idle as low as it will go and start over. Do NOT just lower the idle. You goal is to try and set the idle with the FUEL SCREW, not the idle screw for you final rpm.

 

 

You will be close to 2.5 turns out with an FCR mod carb/DRZ.

Normally this is too many turns, and you go with a larger pilot jet, but not on the DRZ.

You may have to go to a 42 pilot to get it to run well.

Edited by Kah Ran Nee

3.  Get a new slide plate seal (part of your problem). Make sure the slide plate goes in with the hole on the

This was my issue on my 250X and it had the same symptoms you listed. I had just put in a jet kit but had installed the floating valve plate upside down. Contrary to the way it looks, the plate goes on with the flat side to the bottom and the "V" to the top. As mentioned, the hole goes to the bottom. Make sure you have it oriented in that manner.

This was my issue on my 250X and it had the same symptoms you listed. I had just put in a jet kit but had installed the floating valve plate upside down. Contrary to the way it looks, the plate goes on with the flat side to the bottom and the "V" to the top. As mentioned, the hole goes to the bottom. Make sure you have it oriented in that manner.

I had a feeling it was that damn slide seal! When i was cleaning my carb, before i had this problem there were many others that showed signs of a clogged pilot, so i cleaned the hell out of the carb many times, and i believe the carb cleaner ruined my slide seal, because once after cleaning i was checking the slide function and the slide stuck after i opened it and would not return, i had to spray wd40 down the slide and where the seal was to lube it up and make it go down, anyway, thanks for the advice, im gonna buy that seal and see how it goes, however, i thought i read somewhere that the slide seal was one of the rubber parts that was unable to be changed on this particular old fcr slant? I hope thats not true?

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1425560225.630140.jpg

This the post from adv rider.com that mentions a non replaceable seal gasket. Can anyone confirm what this guy is talking about and which seal and where that is?

That is the 'body' seal

If you remove the Torx screws that hold the top and bottom halves of the carb, you see that seal.

 

...oh, and it  is replaceable......JD Jetting has them. 

1. Set your float height to factory specs (sudco.com)

2. Get an R&D fuel screw so you can adjust the fuel screw everytime the weather changes

3. Get a new slide plate seal (part of your problem). Make sure the slide plate goes in with the hole on the bottom

4. Follow the CORRECT procedure for adjusting the pilot jet size and fuel screw

Get the motor hot

Turn the fuel screw to 1 turn out

Lower the idle as low as it will go

Turn the fuel screw OUT to raise the idle to 1500-1800 recommended rpm range. **

Now, blip the throttle, and listen to the rpms drop. You adjust the fuel screw n 1/8 turns after three blips, listening for the fastest drop.

** if the idle is too high, start again with 1.25 turns out, and lower the idle as low as it will go and start over. Do NOT just lower the idle. You goal is to try and set the idle with the FUEL SCREW, not the idle screw for you final rpm.

You will be close to 2.5 turns out with an FCR mod carb/DRZ.

Normally this is too many turns, and you go with a larger pilot jet, but not on the DRZ.

You may have to go to a 42 pilot to get it to run well.

I just installed the r&d flex jet and a new slide plate seal, no more hanging idle! But I'm trying to adjust this fuel screw and my bike isn't doing as your instructions say, i turned the r&d screw all the way in and then backed it out 1 turn, set my idle as low as it can go with the idle nob, now if i try and turn my fuel screw OUT to raise the idle nothing happens, the bike actually dies after you turn it out a few times, i can also turn it all the way in and it doesn't affect the idle at all, wont even die when all the way in, i did all this with a 45 pilot, now today i put in a 42 and same result. What am i missing here...?

Well, it's hard to say, but your symtoms are that of a rich pilot circut, but that can be masked by a worn needle jet (emulsion tube), leaky choke, partially clogged main air jet (in the intake) or even an over-oiled for dirty air filter.

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