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general concensus on replacement valves

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hey guys was looking to replace my valves while i have my head off for big bore install. It seems that kibblewhite are still considered crap.

I wanted to get some APE valves but i cant find a supplier that will send to Australia. I can get Wiseco off of ebay for a decent price. How do they stack up to the APE and Ferrea valves?

Do i also need to get the valves cut  as well or can i just lap them myself, the valves and valve seats are in good condition as it stands.

 

Should i get valve springs to replace the originals, I have measured them and they are well within limits.

 

thanks for any help, I'd rather spend some cash now than fix a grenaded engine.

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Lapping is no longer a needed or acceptable process for modern valves and is destructive to valves that are surface coated.  Forget lapping.  New valves and have the seats lightly resurfaced with a grinding process.  If you need to check for contact use a bluing compound.  Can't help you with valve suppliers.

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ok sounds good. i'll have a look for a head specialist near by to cut my seats.

any opinion on the different brands of valves?

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ok sounds good. i'll have a look for a head specialist near by to cut my seats.

any opinion on the different brands of valves?

 

OEM are as good as anything else...I would rate wiseco below that of OEM...

What is your location..???.... I know the best head guy on the planet ,. :shocked: ......... he lives on the north side of Brisbane. :)

Edited by Craigo
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Ok I thought OEM were a bit sketchy with their 2 piece design. I don't do much high reving and have a standard CDI so they don't need to be race spec or anything.

I'm in Syd so might be a little pricey getting parts up and back. There are a few race tuners here so I might hit them up once I have the valves in my hand.

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Ok I thought OEM were a bit sketchy with their 2 piece design. I don't do much high reving and have a standard CDI so they don't need to be race spec or anything.

I'm in Syd so might be a little pricey getting parts up and back. There are a few race tuners here so I might hit them up once I have the valves in my hand.

 

It rare for a oem valve failure...I would use them without concern...Any good shop should be able to install valves...

If you wanted head flowing done the guy I know here is Brissy does work for the factory road race teams

Edited by Craigo
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i guess i just got unlucky haha

nah im not chasing every single HP i can get on this bike, thats what the Z1000 is for lol.

after 3 months apart i just want to go for a ride.

IMG_0683.PNG

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is doing high revs and lots of WOT type riding bad for the valves?  if so,  thats bad news for me,  may have to think about a different bike,  dont want me valves to let go,  and im always in the higher RPM'S.  

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It rare for a oem valve failure...I would use them without concern...

i completely disagree with this.... Yes its more rare to hear of the OEM valve coming apart in a stock motor but it does happen and as i found out, a modified motor (440 BBK with cams and FCR with a mixture of hot headed rider, high octane, and high RPMs) will eat the stock valves. could be the additional heat, could be the demand, could simply be due to the time but they will break. 

 

I didnt switch from OEMs when i did my build due to cost savings, and now im redoing almost my entire build because i lost a valve at 3500rpm cruzing down the road. 

 

on a side note, is your head salvageable? looks pretty bad (not as bad as mine). if not, go the correct route and order a new head and valves and springs seated sealed and installed from Eddie (http://www.sisnerosspeedworks.com)

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I have wiseco valve for the last 10K km and bike still good. (clearance was still good last winter...didn't check it yet this year...should do it this weekend or the other)

valve seat have been recut.

When I changed the valve I changed the spring for the Suzuki one...my original one was still in spec too.

Edited by maxpat82

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I put ProX Valves,Piston,Camchain in my bike when i rebuilt it. A friend cut the seats and put in new valve seals, no new valve guides was needed.. It's was 2 or 3 years ago approx 10k km on it since then . Still going strong and valves still in spec ! :thumbsup:

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i completely disagree with this.... Yes its more rare to hear of the OEM valve coming apart in a stock motor but it does happen and as i found out, a modified motor (440 BBK with cams and FCR with a mixture of hot headed rider, high octane, and high RPMs) will eat the stock valves. could be the additional heat, could be the demand, could simply be due to the time but they will break. 

 

I didnt switch from OEMs when i did my build due to cost savings, and now im redoing almost my entire build because i lost a valve at 3500rpm cruzing down the road. 

 

on a side note, is your head salvageable? looks pretty bad (not as bad as mine). if not, go the correct route and order a new head and valves and springs seated sealed and installed from Eddie (http://www.sisnerosspeedworks.com)

 

You disagree with that it's rare for an oem valve falure in a stock motor..????.......Ok ....whatever you say...but I couldn't  agree based on what I have seen ....

Edited by Craigo
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Checked the valve clearance this weekend:   no mouvement since installed (Wiseco valve)  (10K km)

Edited by maxpat82

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You disagree with that it's rare for an oem valve falure in a stock motor..????.......Ok ....whatever you say...but I couldn't  agree based on what I have seen ....

Yeah .. High revs / high mile OEM valves on a fresh BB or stroker motor is asking for trouble .

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is doing high revs and lots of WOT type riding bad for the valves?  if so,  thats bad news for me,  may have to think about a different bike,  dont want me valves to let go,  and im always in the higher RPM'S.  

 

I've read so many times that this engine is designed for high revs. Someone else with mechanical experience will no doubt chime in, but I think you're good.

 

The issue is like Chooken says.....high miles, change over to a BB kit, cams and FCR and don't change other components, and something is bound to fail. That always happens when I change something on my truck....soon as the new part goes on, something connected or related to it dies.......... :(

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... its more rare to hear of the OEM valve coming apart in a stock motor but it does happen and as i found out, a modified motor

You can take that statement to the bank, much more frequently once cam ramping angles get more aggressive. slight play in an mcct, can also cause a hiccup in a valve piston the valve relation , under a certain scenario.

Del web or ferria would be a good aftermarket choice, for a valve if you can get them.

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I've had a real hard time sourcing APE and Ferria valves. No one seems to stock them. Unless I go for oversized.

I'm thinking about getting OEM and getting valve seats recut for them.

I'm not gonna be ringing it's neck off, dont wanna be blowing it up again.

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Whats considered high miles? I have a 14000km sm (so approx 8700miles) and will be doing a fcr mx, big bore, and hot cams stage 2. I will of course do all the valve clearences and timing while doing this, but 8700miles hopefully isnt a lot of miles on an otherwise stock 400sm

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Whats considered high miles? I have a 14000km sm (so approx 8700miles) and will be doing a fcr mx, big bore, and hot cams stage 2. I will of course do all the valve clearences and timing while doing this, but 8700miles hopefully isnt a lot of miles on an otherwise stock 400sm

that many modifications, spend the extra and get one piece valves. I went nuts out and got the RHC valves after my stockers broke. cheap insurance imo

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