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Building a front wheel hub

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I've got this little project I've been working on for a few weeks now and need some help. I am making a spool hub for my flat track bike and can't find any information on the spoke holes (dia, c'bore size, shape, depth). Is there anyone here that could point me in the right direction? I have tried to contact Buchanan with no response.

The photos below are progress photos thus far. There will be two larger pieces of mild steel that will actually hold the spokes and sandwich the aluminum center.

Thank you.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1425558527.273786.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1425558557.504155.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1425558583.855142.jpg

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I made a rear wheel hub once for a norton flat tank bike. I just measured the holes from the original one. But make sure you do not drill the holes directly opposite of each other. They have to be shifted but i do not know any more how much. But you should see that on the original too.

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Thank you. I will do more research on the offset of the holes between the sides. I appreciate it.

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Might try and give KSR a call. http://www.ksrwheels.net/They were very helpful when i had an issue. They didn't make what I was looking for but they pointed me in the right direction.

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Might try and give KSR a call. http://www.ksrwheels.net/Theywere very helpful when i had an issue. They didn't make what I was looking for but they pointed me in the right direction.

I'll check them out. Thank you

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Finally heard back from Buchanan. They sent me diagrams of there spokes and helped me get on the right track. Thanks for the input.

Edited by VCHSS176
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Today's progress. I decided to loose the three piece design. No need for that unnecessary weight. Should be done in a week or so. (I only get two nights a week to work on it).

It's turning into a pretty simple project. Not nearly as complicated and I initially thought.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1425957447.423037.jpg

Once it's finished I may start a rear quick change type hub.

Edited by VCHSS176

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I build custom hubs everyday. If you are building a 36 hole hub, you are drilling your holes at 20* increments on your tangent. For the other side, start on a 10* offset and continue the 20* around your tangent. Spoke holes are halfway center to center offsets. For 32 hole wheels your center to center is 22.5* on your tangent line.

Basically take your per side, (36 hole would be 18 per side) and divide it into 360. 18 holes is 20*, 16 holes is 22.5*, then for your offset for the opposite side, take the value amd divide by 2, this gives you the offset stsrting point for the second flange.

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If you dont mind some design advice, I would highly suggest giving the outside faces of your flanges a nice taper toward the center, 10-15* would be good. Having the faces flat like that will force you to have bends in your spokes to get the angle to the rim. When you bend the spokes you preload them and that weakens them. Premature failure happens and you also get lateral flex in turns. Having the spokes as straight and true as possible to the rim gives you the strongest set up possible.

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If you dont mind some design advice, I would highly suggest giving the outside faces of your flanges a nice taper toward the center, 10-15* would be good. Having the faces flat like that will force you to have bends in your spokes to get the angle to the rim. When you bend the spokes you preload them and that weakens them. Premature failure happens and you also get lateral flex in turns. Having the spokes as straight and true as possible to the rim gives you the strongest set up possible.

Thanks for the tips. I will turn a taper on the outer faces as you said. This is my first hub. Learning as I go. Any and all comments/criticism is greatly appreciated. :-) this is a 40 hole hub.

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For a 40 hole, when you start the second side, use a location pin in a spoke hole, then start your spoke holes 9* out. This will give you your offset in relation to the opposite side.

Your location pin will be zero. Your first spoke hole will be 9* over, then your shift will be 18* for the remaining holes. If you have a rotary table, even a manual one, it makes it much easier.

Edited by mister2dt
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If you have a rotary table, even a manual one, it makes it much easier.

I planning on making a fixture with location pins as you said. I am using a Bridgeport with ProtoTrak 2-axis controller. Makes it way easier. :-)

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I planning on making a fixture with location pins as you said. I am using a Bridgeport with ProtoTrak 2-axis controller. Makes it way easier. :-)

Those are so nice. Just set pattern radius and the number of holes. All you have to do is lower the bit to drill the holes. I hope to own one some day. 

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I hope to own one some day.

I learned on an older version of the one I am using. Great little machines. Sometimes I wish I still ran one rather than this 7'x12' travel HAAS machining center I run at work.

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I steer away from Haas... I have 6 Hurco vtc and bmc set ups and 1 Mazak vtc. I do have 6 bridgeport and Enco manual mills and a few jet tl-25 lathes and 23 Mazak QT nexxus lathes.

Hubs are a side deal for me lol. Something i do for fun and a love of creating things. I do have some of the worlds fastest bmx racers on my bmx hubs though, 5 olympic bmx racers are exclusive with me. The moto stuff i do is mostly locals who want soemrhing different. And a local chooper shop, i turn one off hubs for them on project bikes. I would never want to make it a business, hardly any money in it without huge volumes.

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Why do you stay away from haas? It's all I have run in my seven years as a machinist so I don't really know any different. I do run a Kiwa mill with Fanuc om control that I like a lot but the machine itself is junk. I have heard many people say haas machines aren't that great though.

I don't plan on making any more hubs. Just wanted to do it for myself.

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I dont know anyone around here who has had Haas machines and not run in to issues. Screw drives breaking, heads malfunction, just a bad taste from what ive seen in my area. Plus i dont like g code lol. With mazaks mazatrol is so easy. Same with the hurcos, windows based like the mazaks, super easy to program. And reliable, very very reliable. I have 1 hurco and 1 mazak still here i havent sold off that are 1995 models that run like new, been running 50-60 hours week for 20 years with just about zero down time. The rest of them, sell after 10 years, and keep rotating machines. Keeping those 2, they were some of the first we bought.

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I steer away from Haas... I have 6 Hurco vtc and bmc set ups and 1 Mazak vtc. I do have 6 bridgeport and Enco manual mills and a few jet tl-25 lathes and 23 Mazak QT nexxus lathes.

Hubs are a side deal for me lol. Something i do for fun and a love of creating things. I do have some of the worlds fastest bmx racers on my bmx hubs though, 5 olympic bmx racers are exclusive with me. The moto stuff i do is mostly locals who want soemrhing different. And a local chooper shop, i turn one off hubs for them on project bikes. I would never want to make it a business, hardly any money in it without huge volumes.

Onyx hubs?

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