MCT - Am I missing something?

I got my MCCT from thumpertalk shop today.  Looking at it I have one (maybe stupid) question.  Is there some reason why I can't just pull the auto tensioner out using the two bolts and bolt the MCT in?  Not sure why the need to pull the bike apart to do it.  I'm sure I'm missing something....someone please enlighten me....

 

                                 Thanks,

 

                                 Warner

Edited by webbie1

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/552694-mcct-install-guide-and-why-one-is-recommended/

 

"2: When the cams are at any point but TDC on the compression stroke, one or more lobes are pushing down on a valve bucket. When you release all tension from the cam chain, the cams can rotate under force from the valve spring. This could cause the cam chain sprockets to skip a tooth on the chain. Many would not even recognize if or when that cams rotated, let alone understand that while no damage has been done YET, they do need to check the cam timing now.. If you put the motor at TDC, none of this is an issue. Want to skip this step... no worrys,, though really a few seconds to rotate the motor to TDC can save you the hassle of checking the timing if/when the motor snaps over when you allow chain tension to go slack."

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/552694-mcct-install-guide-and-why-one-is-recommended/

 

"2: When the cams are at any point but TDC on the compression stroke, one or more lobes are pushing down on a valve bucket. When you release all tension from the cam chain, the cams can rotate under force from the valve spring. This could cause the cam chain sprockets to skip a tooth on the chain. Many would not even recognize if or when that cams rotated, let alone understand that while no damage has been done YET, they do need to check the cam timing now.. If you put the motor at TDC, none of this is an issue. Want to skip this step... no worrys,, though really a few seconds to rotate the motor to TDC can save you the hassle of checking the timing if/when the motor snaps over when you allow chain tension to go slack."

 

 

Got it......I KNEW it couldn't be as simple as I wished.  Thanks for the quick and informative reply. So the disassembly is just to make sure you're at TDC before you remove the ACT and put the MCT in.

 

                                  Warner

Edited by webbie1

Got it......I KNEW it couldn't be as simple as I wished. Thanks for the quick and informative reply. So the disassembly is just to make sure you're at TDC before you remove the ACT and put the MCT in.

Warner

Anytime. But yes exactly. Not really a way to tell for sure without doing that. Only takes 10 minutes to take the tank off, spark plug out, remove hoses, and take the top cover off. Edited by bneikam25

Anytime. But yes exactly. Not really a way to tell for sure without doing that. Only takes 10 minutes to take the tank off, spark plug out, remove hoses, and take the top cover off.

What is torque for top cover bolts?

What is torque for top cover bolts?

I believe they are 7 ft lbs. they don't need much. I would buy a $30 service manual and it'll have every spec you would ever need.

While you have the valve cover off checking TDC you should measure and record the valve clearances for future reference. 

You are missing a 'C'.

It's MCCT.

 

 

 

Sorry, just had to throw that in.

You are missing a 'C'.

It's MCCT.

Sorry, just had to throw that in.

Nice! Hahaha...there's always that one guy.....Touche'

There's no need to go thru all that tdc crap. I've installed over 30 of them and just tuned by ear and feel.

The TDC doesn't have anything to do with 'tuning' the MCCT. It has to do with unloading the cam lobes and reducing risk. 

That being said, if you look in the tutorial it covers this as I believe someone has linked to above.

...and as someone else has pointed out, the 'tdc crap' gets you into your motor where you can check your valve clearance.

It's good for your soul to work on your bike.

I installed mine without doing that, I wasn't aware that you had to put it at TDC. I installed mine well over 6 months ago, all I did was remove the two bolts and put it in and adjusted it. Think everything is okay? Or should I be worried about it?

There's no need to go thru all that tdc crap. I've installed over 30 of them and just tuned by ear and feel.

 

You are either lucky or skilled..others have proven to be neither, thus there is a safer way to install it. you choose not to, ok.

 

I do not do it as I reccomend in the article either, and I'm not lucky. 

I installed mine without doing that, I wasn't aware that you had to put it at TDC. I installed mine well over 6 months ago, all I did was remove the two bolts and put it in and adjusted it. Think everything is okay? Or should I be worried about it?

No, you're in the lucky category. To have peace of mind, check your cam timing, if it is on, your golden, if it's off , fix it.  

No, you're in the lucky category. To have peace of mind, check your cam timing, if it is on, your golden, if it's off , fix it.  

 

I could use the search function, but is there a sticky or a thread on how to check the cam timing?

I could use the search function, but is there a sticky or a thread on how to check the cam timing?

In the FAQ

Valve clearance check + cam timing

Are you going to educate us Erik......? I know im intrigued.......  ;)

 

 

without tension (the stock tensioner removed) there's more than a good chance that the timing chain moves, or falls off the drive sprocket. when that happens, timing is off. the cam timing will be on, from cam to cam, but from cam to crank = off = bad. 

 

 

it reallllly sucks to be doing a $40 upgrade, and end up with a $700 repair. 

Yea thanks.

 

I understand the risks of fitting without checking the timing. I was referring to (And quoting) Eriks statement where he is suggesting he fits them using another method.....

 

****And i quote again:

 

"I do not do it as I reccomend in the article either, and I'm not lucky."

 

The method in the article I wrote is what I'm comfortable posting.

 

MCCT Install guide, and Why one is recommended.
Started by Erik MarquezApr 30, 2008 08:23 PM
 

There are short cuts, there is no requirement to put it at TDC .. there is no requirement to remove the valve cover.

With the right tools it is a 10 min install.. but it takes a bit of understanding and hands on experience. I can't articulate a sound, feeling and the like in a internet post.

 

So unless you have done it enough, had this motor apart, have some general small motorcycle motor repair experience, what is in the FAQ article is the better method. Next time you're in central Texas, drop me a note, come over and I'll show you  :thumbsup:

 

Its not trade secret or rocket science .. I could SHOW someone how to do it, what specific tools I use that requires the minimum work,  what to listen and feel for in 30 min...... 

I installed mine, followed the Thumper talk MCCT instructions to the letter. It was probably 6 months ago though. As I remember, it had NOTHING in the instructions about removing valve cover to check lobe positions, etc. I'm almost 100% on this, as I remember seeing it done that way on an online write up, but thought I would simply  follow the instructions that came with the part.  Pretty darn sure it was just as below, although I would have to find the instructions to prove it. 

 

-Remove oil breather box (and I think muffler assembly)

-Remove the two bolts from stock adjuster

-Back bolt all the way out on MCCT

-Install new MCCT and torque bolts 

-Finger tighten until it came up tight (without force)

-Remove center plug on stator cover and use 17 mm socket to turn the engine over SLOWLY while continuing to GENTLY tighten the MCCT adjuster, to take the slack out of the chain as it passes through rotation.

-Back it off 1/4 turn after going through above procedure.

-Hold adjuster nut while tightening jam nut. 

 

It would seem that if removing valve cover was an important/critical step, it would have been in the instructions. Why sell a $40 part that causes said $700 repair with bad instruction that causes said $700 repair?   That would be bad business move.  

 

Anyway,  my bike started right up,  no chain slack noise. All has been good since I did the mod.  By the way, I had already had my valve cover off maybe a month or two before the MCCT to check my valves and condition of things up top. All valves were in the higher part of the spec range (yea....as I didn't want to mess with those dumb shims) and you could have eaten off that head it was so clean...at 10K miles too! 

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