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First 2T 2000 CR250R

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I picked this bike up from a friend last weekend. I took it over to Hollister Hills SVRA and put around 30 miles on it to feel it out. My first impressions of this bike are really good; solid consistant power, smooth suspension, and good handling. The front brake seems a little weak but other than that it is a great bike.

The bike came with a FMF gold series expansion chamber, FMF Powercore muffler, V-Force reeds, Wiesco oversized piston, Scott's steering damper with an aftermarket upper triple clamp, ProTaper fat bars and ASV unbreakable levers.

I started going through the bike and cleaned the air filter and replaced the front and rear brake fluid. The brake fluid was in really poor condition and was probably the original. The air filter looked like chocolate cake and when I pulled it there was some dirt that got by so I wiped it out, hopefully not an issue. I looked at the chain and sprockets and they were worn out to the point the chain had flat spots top and bottom of the links and the sprockets are sharp looking. I ordered 13/51 steel sprockets and a roller chain. I'll change the plug as soon as I pick one up. I also pulled off majority of the graffics.

I have some questions for you guys;

1. My buddy said I should mix the fuel at 40:1 instead of the factory recommendation of 32:1. Is there any benefit to running a little less oil on the fuel?

2. I bought a roller chain instead of an o-ring chain, what would be a good lube? Gear oil, ATF, Teflon chain spray, ect.

3. The rear shock is weeping at the seal around the push rod can anyone recommend a seal brand and maybe a rebuild kit.

4. The bike has a UNI 2 stage air filter on it now but I was thinking of replacing it for a new filter. Does anyone have any recommendations and why?

5. I run Shell Rotella 15w40 in all my bikes and was thinking of using it in this one, do any of you guys use this oil in your 2T. I'm NOT trying to start an oil thread I just want anyone who uses this oil to comment.

Thanks guys, I'll post some pics of the bike soon.

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40:1 for trails  32:1 for track.

 

any chain lube will work, clean and lube it often.

 

send the rear shock to get fixed by a shock person.

 

most filters work just fine, again clean and oil it often.

 

that oil is fine, I personally like regular ATF fluid for the better feel of the clutch.

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Hey it sounds like you're somewhat close to me as I can easily go to Hollister Hills and ride around for a day but I usually go test my bikes at Metcalf motorcycle park since its closer.

It sounds like your shock needs to possibly be rebuilt. I just got a 2001 CR250 and pretty much the entire suspension was blown to hell and back. Forks and shock were leaking, oil was blackened and smelled funny, outer chambers in the forks had practically no oil in them. All but one linkage bearing were shot. One was so bad I had to pound the collar out with a socket since the bearing was literally packed full of rust.

I went With OEM for all the seals and bushings inside the suspension as it's about the same price as the rebuild kits depending on where you get your parts. I got mine from Service Honda.

Right now I have a Maxima air filter on it using No Toil biodegradable oil and that's been working out fine for me. As long as the filter isn't crumbling or falling apart it should be fine to keep using it after giving it a nice cleaning and re oiling.

The oil I have in the transmission is mobil 1 full synthetic 10w40 And it made a huge difference for me because the oil in my bike from the previous owner was so trashed the clutch was sticking and it wouldn't shift all the time. I think my bike was kind of neglected on the maintenance side of things. I think the most important thing about transmission oil for these is just make sure it doesn't have energy conservation or friction modifiers. Some automotive engine oils do and some don't.

Edited by 250rider250

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Good info all around. No doubt the linkage, swingarm and steering head bearings need service if not replacement. I've had zero problems with 50/1 for over forty years, the air filter is the most important thing. Have probably used twenty different pre-mix oils, all brands are good today. Regarding the front brake, a braided steel Tusk hose from Rocky Mtn is a great value and will help the performance.

Edited by YHGEORGE

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250Rider, I live in Half Moon Bay so all the local riding parks are no that far. I know the front forks had a recent oil change but I think that was all that was done so I'm going to do some research and upgrade the springs and some other bits. The rear shock hasn't been touched ever so it's time to get in there and replace some seals, oil and charge it, I would like to keep the reliability so Im going to stick with oem parts. I haven't looked on any parts fiche so I wasn't sure if you could by the parts separately, do you have any recommendations for mandatory replacement parts in the shock?

I've heard good things about the NoToil biodegradable foam filter oil, I will be trying that as soon as I run out of my UNI filter oil. I came back from a 1,200 mile trip in Baja which was about 80% sand and dirt and the filter did great so that says something about the UNI filter and Oil.

YHGeorge, thanks for mentioning the checking the linkages I am going to look at them next chance I get and regrease or replace the bearings. Have any of you drilled and tapped some of the suspension parts for Zerk fittings to keep the suspension greased easily?

Here are some pics of the bike as it sits now. The chain and sprockets will be here today!

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Use Honda OEM seals in the linkage and your grease job should last at least a year easily. If you don't let things go too long the re-grease job is not a problem. The seals in the aftermarket kits are pure junk, trust me.  

Edited by YHGEORGE

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I got my sprockets and chain 13/51 114 link and the chain is too tight. Do any of you see a problem with removing the locknuts on the bolts so the bolt can go in the swingarm a little more?I only need a little bit more and with the pressure on the bolt I don't see it loosening up.

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I'll admit this is the first time I've worked on the suspension of a dirt bike. Part of the reason I got the bike was just to move up to something bigger and more complex to work on than my RC cars I have lol. So other more experienced people may be able to give better advice. I'd say the most mandatory things to replace in the shock would be the seals but I replaced more since it wasn't that much more money. I also replaced the case rod guide (not sure if that's the right name for it but that's what it was on the diagram and it's what the seals go into). I just looked on the parts diagram for my bike on Service Honda and clicked which parts to buy for the shock. Also be sure to get the nut that holds the piston/valving on the shock shaft. It looks like ruining it is almost inevitable when taking it apart. 

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might want to put the front brake hose on the right side of the forks, goes between the wheel and fork.

Good catch. And all you have to do is remove the caliper from the mount and the pinch clamp on the fork. Then slip the caliper to the inside of the fork leg and re-attach No need to remove and then bleed the hose. Takes about a minute or two. :thumbsup: Bike looks great, you've done a good job.

Edited by YHGEORGE

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Good catch. And all you have to do is remove the caliper from the mount and the pinch clamp on the fork. Then slip the caliper to the inside of the fork leg and re-attach No need to remove and then bleed the hose. Takes about a minute or two. :thumbsup: Bike looks great, you've done a good job.

its the third one this week i believe, starting to think people do it to see if we are paying attention :lol:

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