Clicker settings for the DEEP sand.

So I got out to a hare scramble this weekend. Second time on the YZ, and second time on a bike period in about 6 months. So needless to say I got WORKED. But this race was all deep loose sand dunes, and ultra deep sand whoops, and I have zero sand experience. The first ride I did with the bike was desert single track, and through the turns, rocks, and the smaller tighter whoops the Suspension was phenomenal. But out in the sand it felt just meh, I was wondering what clicker adjustments would be recommended for sand. Bike is a 2009 yz250. Im 6'2" 195lbs, and my sag is at about 102. Springs and valves all stock.

I almost always do this settings. In dry sand ( this is from all the way hard on compression and reboubd)

Forks:

4clicks out compression

4out on rebound

Shock:

4 out on compression

And 4 on rebound

run more sag (105mm), slide to the forks down in the clamps level with the top of the brass colored fork tubes. lower tire pressure 2 psi. Lean back. Wide open.

If you are riding smooth soft sand, then you can go in on all clickers a long way.

If your suspension is healthy, and you have a good setting for medium or hard dirt on a medium roughness track, then for rough sand (wooped and rutted) I find this works:

1. Get a front tire that works on sand. Like a Pirelli MS32, or Dunlop MX32, or a Mich S12 or MS3. Compared to a wrong tire, this change will feel like you are cheating.

2. Slow down the rebound. Both front and rear. 1 or 2 clicks can make a big difference. Just experiment.

3. Firm the fork comp. How much deeps a lot on the roughness of the sand track. All sand tracks are far from equal.

4. Firm the shock high speed comp. That 17mm nut. It's easy to find the right amount of HSC by feel. ride some woops and check for rear packing, and ride accel bumps and ensure you're using enough rear travel.

5. Firm the shock low speed comp. I do this last but usually don't change it. More LSC allows the rear to squat more when you shift your weight back. I find this rear squat helps high speed stability and also helps to rail sand berms because you can lay the bike over more with less tendency to fall to the low side.

I don't adjust my sag, since I use a fair bit of sag always on my YZ. 105mm when wearing gear. Fork caps level with the triples (front full up). I think the bike turns fine like that, but I have a motor with good broad power so I can get on the power early and the rear comes around in a manageable way.

Edit: I'm currently using a Dunlop MX32 on sand, grass and hard pack and loving it. Beautiful tire. On my YZ at least. Tough too. 11 psi with Tubliss. Rear MX32 in a 110 is great too, for grip and durability.

Edited by numroe

I have an mx51 on the front and rear. Would you consider that the wrong tire for sand?

 

1. Get a front tire that works on sand. Like a Pirelli MS32, or Dunlop MX32, or a Mich S12 or MS3. Compared to a wrong tire, this change will feel like you are cheating.
 

Yes. Wrong tire.

Interesting. Thanks for the input.

No probs. You're welcome.

Try the MX32s next time. Both ends. For control and traction it blows away the MX51 in just about everything. Especially sand!

I can attest that having proper soft terrain tires makes an extremely noticeable difference in cornering and overall handling in sand.

 

Having spent quite some time (and money!) over the last few seasons trying out various Pirelli

and Michelin 'soft' and 'mid-soft' tires at my local tracks (sand / soft dirt / loam),

 

the instant I ran an 'intermediate' (a Bridgestone M403, I admit I got caught up in 'how great they are' internet hype...)

I barely did a complete lap before quickly realizing how poorly they perform when not in their intended terrain.

 

The only exception I have found yet is the MH3 that do pretty well in the soft stuff despite their mid-hard design.

 

If you are a fan of Dunlop, as numroe mentionned the MX32 look best suited to your riding conditions.

Edited by mlatour

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