Kickstart install, to decompress or not to decompress

[goflossurself]

So i just installed my kickstart while doing my rebuild but ive run into a dilemma, i was about to remove my auto decompression from my cams but thinking it may be a bad idea. 

 

i run E cams and E head, I can install the manual decompression but im doing the install on a friends S at the same time. he has stage 2 cams (no auto decompression) and he cannot run the manual decompression lever. 

 

is decompression a requirement when adding a kickstart to the drz400? both are 440's and fresh builds. how hard will it be to kick over/find the TDC to kick over?

[Gsxrstuntdrz]

I've removed the decomp on my 440, royal pain in the ass to kickstart that thing. If you're able to fit a manual decomp I would do it. Did your auto decomp fail?

Edited March 30, 2015 by Gsxrstuntdrz

[goflossurself]

no, the auto decomp is still good, just figured i would remove it before it causes an issue. 

 

i can fit the manual decomp but im concerned about my buddies bike, he cant run a manual decom (s head) and the stage 2 cams dont come with an auto decomp. 

 

what youve told me scares me, i may talk to him about switching heads and ill run an auto decomp on my stock cams, and he can run the manual decomp with my head (or he can have my cams and ill run my head)

[Qqqqqqqqqqqq]

Yeah .. Manual Decomp is the way to go .

Otherwise push the kick start JUST past TDC , let it return to the Top . Now give a good firm kick , no throttle ..1800 rpm idle is best .

[goflossurself]

yeah thinking im gonna make the manual decomp work. can you machine the S head to get it to fit?

 

i just installed the kickstart on my friends S before i did the BBK and i could kick it over but it was a bitch. i didnt want to keep going as its got no fluids but i could only get it to kick over once. 

 

ive heard the bikes are harder to start with the auto decompression due to it not having enough compression 

[Gsxrstuntdrz]

Harder to start than the manual decompression maybe but definitely easier than no decomp at all lol. You can machine the head and fit the manual decomp on the s head, I might end up doing it to mine as well. You already have an e head to look at so you should be able to see what needs machining

Edited March 31, 2015 by Gsxrstuntdrz

[goflossurself]

so that was a very wrong decision on my part, I now need to replace the cam because the starter can barely get it over. i can only get one rotation with the kick and there is no way its starting. 

 

the 440 and kick are way too much not to have a decompression. I checked on machining the head to make the manual decompression work and it doesnt seem feesable without a full blown machine shop

[Gsxrstuntdrz]

so that was a very wrong decision on my part, I now need to replace the cam because the starter can barely get it over. i can only get one rotation with the kick and there is no way its starting.

the 440 and kick are way too much not to have a decompression. I checked on machining the head to make the manual decompression work and it doesnt seem feesable without a full blown machine shop

Try a stronger battery before you go replacing the cam. Also try servicing the starter motor. I'm going to be upgrading my starter wires to much heavier gauge to flow more current. Right now I'm using the big Shorai (LFX14 something or other) and it turns it over reliably. Edited April 11, 2015 by Gsxrstuntdrz

[Noble]

The manual and the auto work differently.  Manual is for positioning the motor for kicking and the auto makes it easier to kick (or E start). The E start works OK with the auto removed with original 400cc displacement.  Larger displacement makes the starter work a lot harder.  A bigger battery will help but not as mush as a cam with auto decompression. After struggling with this for years I finally went to a Hot Cams EX cam with auto decompression AND the YTZ10S battery.  No more struggles.

[goflossurself]

thanks, yes there definitely is a battery age issue but even boosting off a car, it turns and catches but sounds really stressed. 

 

my concern is flooding it on a trail and running the battery low after only two or 3 cranks and then not being able to kick start it because that is a royal nightmare, about 5-10 kicks so far to start,Estart needs about 2 revolutions by the sound of it. 

 

the part that really sucks is I cut the auto decomp off my stock E cams and my buddies brand new Hot Cams..... emailed the seller to see if I could get a good deal on 2 exhaust cams

[augustine5869]

The manual and the auto work differently. Manual is for positioning the motor for kicking and the auto makes it easier to kick (or E start). The E start works OK with the auto removed with original 400cc displacement. Larger displacement makes the starter work a lot harder. A bigger battery will help but not as mush as a cam with auto decompression. After struggling with this for years I finally went to a Hot Cams EX cam with auto decompression AND the YTZ10S battery. No more struggles.

So I just installed a kickstart kit on my 440. I already have hotcams both intake and exhaust. Stage two. It's a s head. From reading this, it sounds like I should be able to kickstart

It easy right?

[Noble]

Easily?? depends a lot on your weight, condition and technique.  I doubt easily.  I kick started a 600 Norton single in high school all 130 pounds of me but that was way different than a modern 440 DRZ with no manual compression release to set the motor in the right place to kick.

[augustine5869]

205 lbs. I think it should be fine. Thanks

[goflossurself]

im 225 and i put a good amount of force and weight into it. keep in mind i dont have the auto decompress (i believe the stage 2 also does not come with the auto decompress) Tomorrow im going to put back the stock exhaust cam and see if its easy, i can get it to turn over once, but cant position it to TDC and cant get any more then one revolution out of it.