3x3 mod thread is a frustrating

So I am going to do the 3x3 mod and jet to my 2014 S keeping the stock exhaust.  Just cutting the hole and jetting with the JD jet kit.  I know there is the 3x3 thread pinned but after reading about half of the 50 pages of posts I'm not any further along in my knowdledge.  I've jetted a Harley and a Kawi carb and had to make some adjustments a few times to get them purring, so I understand what I need to do....  its the HOW to get to this one and a better starting point.  I did those other carbs with some pretty decent tips, tricks and almost dead on specs to start at. 

 

I'm mechanically inclined but that doesn't mean I want to learn the hard way.  I also dont want to find out I did something wrong after the fact and have to rip it all apart and do it again cuz I missed one silly thing.  I've learned in my years that its better to work smarter not harder.  So make me smarter here people.  LOL

 

I've looked for a factory service manual and I'm not finding much on that either.  I found one pdf file of an older factory service manual but the pics aren't all the clear.  Hell I'd buy one if I could find something.  Maybe I'm not entering the right words in the search or something.

 

Thanks everyuone

So what is it you want exactly? You are not very clear on that part...

Basic is easy : Cut a hole 3"x3" on top of airfilter box (expand the existing hole)

Buy a JD jet kit, or dynojet stage 2 kit, and follow the jetting instructions included with the kit.

They tell you which jets to use, which needle and what position the needle should be at.

 

This is not rocket science, no reason not to do it.

I'm not sure what it is you need, either, but I'll try to help out. I just did the 3x3 mod and used the JD Jet kit on my '14 S model that's otherwise stock. If you follow the instructions in the kit, it's literally that easy. My bike runs great, throttle response is better, and seems to feel better at the low speed stuff. Really, the hardest part is taking out/putting in the carb. Best advice I can give for that, though, is split the frame some, and push the airbox boot back as much as you can to give yourself more room when you're installing it again. The extended fuel mixture screw is probably a good idea. I got it for mine, and it's easy to get to when the carb is on the bike.

 

 

I followed that video as well, even though he uses a different kit than I did. The steps are there, in order, and if you get lost and need a reminder it's all right there. It's seriously easy.

So the JD kit has all the needed instructions.... That's a pleasure I didn't know I had. My jetting for my other bikes was purchased in pieces by me from what others used and i used a starting point and I had no direction. Maybe I didn't realize this was going to be so easy.

Sounds like my biggest obstacle is getting to the carb and possibly making adjustments after if dont get the extended mix screw.

I guess i was looking for the info the jet kit already will give me. I just know siding thru tons of posts about I tried this or I tried that and I have this exhaust with this main... And holes in the sides of the air box... My head was spinning. I have a feeling I'm just over anticipating the complexity of this. I'm not used to simple. Heck last tune I did I was sitting at a computer plugged to a power commander and I was messing with numbers in different throttle ranges. Maybe it's just been that long since I did my other carbs that it really wasn't that bad.

you'll be alright, getting the carb back in is the hard part, alittle wd40 on the boots, get your finger on the 'checkered' part of the rear boot and push in and back hard, make it obey you and it will go in alot easier ..

you'll be alright, getting the carb back in is the hard part, alittle wd40 on the boots, get your finger on the 'checkered' part of the rear boot and push in and back hard, make it obey you and it will go in alot easier ..

Yep getting the carb in and out is the hardest part.

 

If you are remotely mechanically inclined it is not difficult.

To me the throttle cable ends were the hardest part. Do them first. I feel so ham fingered sometimes. I cheated and used some needle nose pliers to get them back on. So being as it can be done with a little finesse. The rest came easier. With a newer outlet tube(air boot) you should be able to loosen the clamps at the front and back of the carb. Leaving the forward clamp on the engine side. Push the carb back into the air boot until it clears the inlet boot. Turn carb to the side and wiggle it past and pull it out. On the left side... Reverse order to reinstall. I know there are a lot more steps not covered by us here. But logic dictates the tank and seat come off for access. If you can not get enough room to remove the carb. Let the rear sub frame loose and move it back a bit. You will have plenty of room then. If in doubt write down notes and take pics as you go. It will be a reference point if you get stuck. Dadgum...I make it sound so terribly hard to do. After doing it once you will understand in the grand scheme of things its really not that hard to do. In and out in about a hour to hour and a half. Firing it up and testing it out and adjusting to run good may add a wee bit of time. Remember little steps. Turn this to much or that to little will throw you off. Do it by the numbers on the JD Jetting instructions at first and you will be real close. Fine tuning from there takes time and trial n error...

 Yes, the JD kit comes with instructions :D Oh and why are you guys taking the carb off??? just loosen the clamps and twist it, pull out jets, put in new then twist to other side and swap out needle ;D yeah yeah, I know I know, a females way of doing it.

 Yes, the JD kit comes with instructions :D Oh and why are you guys taking the carb off??? just loosen the clamps and twist it, pull out jets, put in new then twist to other side and swap out needle ;D yeah yeah, I know I know, a females way of doing it.

Honestly? I thought of doing it that way since that's the way the kit instructions say. I opted to take it completely out, though, since I'm clumsy and have butter fingers. Didn't want to lose something and have to search around for it. Just easier to put it on the work bench and do everything there on paper towels. Nothing bounces out into Wheretheblankdiditgoville that way.

 Yes, the JD kit comes with instructions :D Oh and why are you guys taking the carb off??? just loosen the clamps and twist it, pull out jets, put in new then twist to other side and swap out needle ;D yeah yeah, I know I know, a females way of doing it.

 

I couldn't get enough twist out of mine.  Off the bike was much easier to deal with.  Especially with the extended fuel screw.  You'll need to drill and pull out the brass plug to either adjust the fuel screw or install the new Extended screw.   

 

Here's a couple other things that I learned about afterwards.  I paid for new hex head float bowl screws from Kientec.  They are nice but the JD Kit came with them already -didn't know that until they both arrived on the same day.  $8 I didn't need to spend.  I got the extended fuel screw.  I've only really touched it once, but it was still worth the $12!  I can't imagine trying to get a screwdriver up in there.  I also followed the JD instructions.  But later found out here on TT that it's recommended to stick with the stock 22.5 pilot if you are using the Extended Fuel Screw.  I installed the 25 per the instructions.  I haven't bothered to change it back.  Bike seems to run well and it will die if I crank the Ext. fuel all the way in.  It was all very easy.  I'd never done jetting before this, it's that easy.  Tweaking and fine tuning might take a bit more finesse.  I also shot an email over to JD and asked them what to set my bike up with.  I was worried about what jets because Phoenix is so damn hot!  They replied with the same basic info I was getting on here and what's in the instructions.

Edited by GavMac78

Thanks everyone. I now going into to this getting carb in and out in tight spots is always a pain... But I'm not a fan of dealing with throttle cable ends... I don't know why... They just don't like me.. Lol. Even on the throttle tubes they just mess with me... I think I had one time they went butter smooth and I kept worrying something was missed.. Ha.

So I also caught something there about leaving the stock pilot... That is one of those things that were buried in ribs of posts cuz I missed that. Lots of ideas on needless and clip placement. Tell me more

 Yes, the JD kit comes with instructions :D Oh and why are you guys taking the carb off??? just loosen the clamps and twist it, pull out jets, put in new then twist to other side and swap out needle ;D yeah yeah, I know I know, a females way of doing it.

Im gonna admit this but I never thought of that..... :banghead:

Im gonna admit this but I never thought of that..... :banghead:

I thought about that... I've worked on a carb on s bike before.... But it With all the talk about it being so tight in there I figured I won't have enough room to work easily so I didn't think much into it. Especially when drilling for that cap. I did that with my kawi and for that it was easier to take it off... For some adjustments and a needle change I've kept it on

Oh and why are you guys taking the carb off??? just loosen the clamps and twist it, pull out jets, put in new then twist to other side and swap out needle

Yep, that works fine an dandy but only after the fuel screw plug has been removed and the jic bowl screws replaced with shcs.

 

Not going to be able to drill the plug out with the carb mounted on the bike.

 

Moving the VR out of the way allows better access to the rear bowl screws.

 

 

 

NCSKx7b.jpg

Edited by Kioti

I tend to remove the entire throttle cable bracket. Just don't lose the spacer behind one of the screws. I also like to remove the entire carb. Since you are only doing this once (in most cases) it's worth the extra work. Plus, you can then make sure everything is clean, float height is set etc. etc.

I've yet to sort my carb but had it on and off about 6 times.....I don't loosen any frame bolt, just heat the rubber inlet and outlet for the carb and extra heat on the big rubber boot at the back (plenum?)

Suzuki calls the air boot/ plenum... "Tube, outlet" on the micro fiche style blow up parts assembly. I just bought a brand new one because my MY 2000 one is stiff as a ----.

Being there will be a 41 crammed into the space soon I want it to be easier to manipulate. Even heat does not soften my boot anymore.

Lots of good info. I'll add just a couple points. 

 

If your carb is several years old, rebuild it while you have it out. Takes only a couple hours tops, and you know everything is nice and clean inside. Plus the $40 moose racing rebuild kit gives you a brand new 22.5 PJ in case you go with extended fuel screw so you don't have to use the old one.  The float valve housing has an o-ring that goes bad and can cause gas to leak into the crank case if your petcock goes bunk (vacuum) or get's left on prime or on (if positive off style).  If your carb/bike is only a couple years old....never mind on this part I suppose. 

 

It takes only 5 minutes tops to remove the three bolts for subframe. But saves a ton of time R/R the carb. Just do it and save yourself the headache!  If cold, put a little heat  with heat gun to the intake plenum box so it pushes back easier.  Leave the subframe bolts off until the bike starts and idles (obviously not before you ride). That way, if there are issues starting, and you need to yank the carb again to check anything, it will go faster. 

 

Lastly, the key to the throttle cables is to simply twist the throttle to put the barrels in a slack position to make it easy to fit them in their holders. Makes that a super easy job. I wouldn't  recommend taking off the linkage plate! 

 

OH, and I have the factory manual on fuel system that covers mikuni rebuild in pdf format. If you don't have a manual, just PM with your email address and I will email it to you.   

Edited by DougBurgoyne

Also be careful when you put the needle retainer in not to break one of the 4 tabs holding it.. The directions say pop In firmly but I must of went a little to firm cause when I did mine I broke a tab so had to get a new slide

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