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DRZ400 Clutch wont fully disengage?

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Hi,

 

I've been messing around with the taillight on my DRZ, managed to get that sorted now the battery has died and I'm without a bike until the charger I've ordered has arrived. 

 

I'd normally just bump start it but the clutch seems to be not fully disengaging, which is making it hard for me to run with in gear, preventing me from bump starting. I'd noticed this previously when stopped at lights and with the clutch fully in, the bike would crawl slightly? I've adjusted the clutch adjuster on the leaver to fully extended and fully tightened with no difference to it disengaging. 

 

I've read that DRZ's have wet sumps which have an effect on the clutch, leading to them always not fully disengaging when cold? However I then read that this shouldn't prevent me from pushing the bike with the clutch pulled in?

 

Should I break into the clutch and check the condition of the plates/ springs or are there some easier methods to check first? 

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Make sure the cable is adjusted correctly. I had the same thing where my bike would creep forward with the clutch in. I needed a new clutch cable..

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There are two adjustments for the clutch cable. The one right at the perch where cable goes in...and one a few inches up the cable usually covered by rubber sleeve. You want the one at the perch in the middle approx. Then use the other one to get it nearly perfect, and then fine tune with the one at the perch. sorry if you already knew this.  Mind was doing same type of thing...would clunk into gear and I could feel the bike jerk. It was also hard to find N when it was in 1st or 2nd. Would jump right past and I would fight back and forth to get into  N.  Got mine adjusted right, and solved the problem. Not clutch plate, presure plate or spring related most likely

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There are two adjustments for the clutch cable. The one right at the perch where cable goes in...and one a few inches up the cable usually covered by rubber sleeve. You want the one at the perch in the middle approx. Then use the other one to get it nearly perfect, and then fine tune with the one at the perch. sorry if you already knew this.  Mind was doing same type of thing...would clunk into gear and I could feel the bike jerk. It was also hard to find N when it was in 1st or 2nd. Would jump right past and I would fight back and forth to get into  N.  Got mine adjusted right, and solved the problem. Not clutch plate, presure plate or spring related most likely

 

That's what I've been told by someone else too, I had a look and only managed to access the top adjuster on the clutch cable (the one that you suggested I should fine tune a bit) I notice there's another part to it that might need adjusting but I couldn't get the rubber cover out of the way to access it properly, I'll have another go though and see if it resolves the issue. 

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That's what I've been told by someone else too, I had a look and only managed to access the top adjuster on the clutch cable (the one that you suggested I should fine tune a bit) I notice there's another part to it that might need adjusting but I couldn't get the rubber cover out of the way to access it properly, I'll have another go though and see if it resolves the issue. 

Yeah, adjust the main one that is a few inches from the perch. I had this issue when I installed some new levers.. 5 minutes of sitting on the bike and adjusting till where you can find the sweet spot of where it grabs. It's a piece of cake. 

 

Also, I've never had an issue with cold oil making the clutch kind of stick, and I've rode in sub freezing temps.

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Maybe a bit of silicone spray, etc., to help with pulling the adjuster "cover" back. I think I slit mine (or PO did) to get at it better, but kind of wish it wasn't so it seals up better there. You'll want to screw it "out" after loosing the jam nut (I think a 8mm and 10 mm wrench if not mistaken) to make the cable "longer" if you aren't able to fully disengage the clutch. After you are done, you are looking to have the clutch perch adjuster roughly in the center of it's threads. So, when the bike is running, with clutch all the way in, you should have the clutch lever move away from the grip a ways before you the clutch starts to engage (move the bike)...mine starts to grab when it's about half an inch off the grip.  Don't go too far the other way, or you could have a clutch that doesn't full engage and will be slipping all the time (if you  get what I'm saying). 

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Hi,

 

I've been messing around with the taillight on my DRZ, managed to get that sorted now the battery has died and I'm without a bike until the charger I've ordered has arrived. 

 

I'd normally just bump start it but the clutch seems to be not fully disengaging, which is making it hard for me to run with in gear, preventing me from bump starting. I'd noticed this previously when stopped at lights and with the clutch fully in, the bike would crawl slightly? I've adjusted the clutch adjuster on the leaver to fully extended and fully tightened with no difference to it disengaging. 

 

I've read that DRZ's have wet sumps which have an effect on the clutch, leading to them always not fully disengaging when cold? However I then read that this shouldn't prevent me from pushing the bike with the clutch pulled in?

 

Should I break into the clutch and check the condition of the plates/ springs or are there some easier methods to check first? 

 

 

a new clutch cable stretches a little the first month, after that, it doesn't stretch again until it's days from dead. 

 

order a new clutch cable, adjust accordingly. slack at the lever and 90 degrees cable to clutch actuator = long clutch life

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The cable looks fairly new, but it might've stretched? I checked the clutch actuator and it's just under 90 degrees to the clutch cable (maybe like 80 or 85 degrees). Tried adjusting both clutch cable adjustors, I couldn't get the clutch to disengage fully (as if in neutral) at any point, but I could make it a little better. I tried bump starting multiple times again and it sounded like it nearly wanted to go but I'm quite light so the back wheel was loosing traction. I finally got too embarrassed/ tired and put it away again. I'm still waiting for the charger to arrive and it's lovely and sunny out :'( Might be easier to sort when I actually get the thing running. 

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Never heard reports on how easy a DRZ is to bump start, especially by oneself. Maybe with steep downhill help. Using 2nd gear might help with back tire skidding due to compression. 

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Never heard reports on how easy a DRZ is to bump start, especially by oneself. Maybe with steep downhill help. Using 2nd gear might help with back tire skidding due to compression. 

 

 

third gear, standing, then DROP on the seat when you release the clutch. i'm 230lbs and it still takes a high gear and some effort to get enough traction. 

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Did you check the engine side of the clutch cable.

I'd put my money on a frayed cable.

Once you start to lose a few wire strands, the cable stretches and doesn't disengage the clutch.

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Did you check the engine side of the clutch cable.

I'd put my money on a frayed cable.

Once you start to lose a few wire strands, the cable stretches and doesn't disengage the clutch.

 

Where the cable joins the clutch actuator? I checked for frayed wires but it seems fine with no frayed wires, I'll try remove it and measure the length to see if it's stretched? I'm just hoping it is something to do with the cable and not the clutch internals, the clutch lever also feels quite stiff to disengage as compared to my 125cc. 

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I can roll start mine very easy in second gear, first usually just skids. I roll start down my short driveway all the time. OP if you put in 2nd or third it will roll a lot easier and is less violent to bump start.

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Went out again with a mate to give me a hand bump starting, managed to finally get it going with his help after about five tries, the battery is now charged so will start on the button  :ride:

 

Also the clutch doesn't seem as bad now I've adjusted the cable adjuster further down so thanks for the help guys. 

 

I really need to get used to how vibey these bikes are and tighten the fasteners down properly, lost loads of fasteners today  :facepalm:

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Went out again with a mate to give me a hand bump starting, managed to finally get it going with his help after about five tries, the battery is now charged so will start on the button  :ride:

 

Also the clutch doesn't seem as bad now I've adjusted the cable adjuster further down so thanks for the help guys. 

 

I really need to get used to how vibey these bikes are and tighten the fasteners down properly, lost loads of fasteners today  :facepalm:

 

 

blue loctite is your friend.

 

before you try to break a loctite'd bolt/nut loose, put some heat on it. 

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I have a 2013 ssr 125 and when I start releasing the clutch I start hearing a weird noise. I'm not sure what's wrong. I've already tried adjusting the clutch cable and have done the whole process of opening the ssr cover spinning till it it starts to get tight and then spinning it back 1/2. But that doesn't seem to do the job. Any suggestions ?it would be greatly appreciated thanks.

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