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KTM Special tools for splitting RF4 cases

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Okay guys. I am leaning towards splitting my cases to send my crank out(2011 450 sxf).  Going through the manual and seeing what special tools they want me to use.  Some I don't need but there are a few I am just not sure.  One for instance is a "gear quadrant tool" which is just about 10 teeth/small arc of a gear to wedge between the primary gear and clutch hub to loosen the nut on the primary.  

 

So far the tools i think i need, assuming my clutch holder tool works.

Flywheel Puller $25

Clutch Holder

Special Socket (36mm)

Gear Quadrant tool $150

Crank tool $110

 

So anyone that has split one of these before any insight on tools?  Is the Special Socket for the Balancer gear drive wheel anything other than a big socket? Images look like just a socket but maybe super thing wall.  Is the gear quadrant tool needed/any other parts work to hold that?  Any other tools that were a must have?  Id rather have everything on hand instead of start tearing it down to a point, ordering a tool, tear down, order another tool etc.  I am only asking about special tools here not "you need a 6mm, 8mm, 13mm etc etc".  

 

Thanks!  If nobody has an idea i guess ill have to make a list and post it.

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I just got done splitting the cases on my 09 which I believe is mostly the same. 

 

-Flywheel puller is a must.

-A regular 36mm socket works fine for the main nuts on both sides of the crankshaft. 

-I didn't use a gear quadrant tool to hold the crank from spinning to get it apart (used a quick zip from and impact gun and held the rod with my free hand), but it would be nice to torque them back on during reassembly.  I have a gear jammer tool from motion pro that I will try first.  At $25 it's a lot cheaper than the KTM tool. 

-If the crank tool you speak of is the one to get the bearing races off, you will need that.

-There is a water pump gear locating pin tool that you will need when you re-assemble the motor.

-Crankshaft locking pin is nice to have too.

 

For re-assembly, save one of the old main bearing races and split it with a thin cutoff wheel.  You can use it to slide off and on by hand instead of having to use the tool every time when setting the crank end play.  I'd order a few of the extra shims that go behind the bearing race to have on hand as well.  They are relatively cheap and save waiting time.  There are a couple different thicknesses too.

Edited by quad97
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I just got done splitting the cases on my 09 which I believe is mostly the same. 

 

-Flywheel puller is a must.

-A regular 36mm socket works fine for the main nuts on both sides of the crankshaft. 

-I didn't use a gear quadrant tool to hold the crank from spinning to get it apart (used a quick zip from and impact gun and held the rod with my free hand), but it would be nice to torque them back on during reassembly.  I have a gear jammer tool from motion pro that I will try first.  At $25 it's a lot cheaper than the KTM tool. 

-If the crank tool you speak of is the one to get the bearing races off, you will need that.

-There is a water pump gear locating pin tool that you will need when you re-assemble the motor.

-Crankshaft locking pin is nice to have too.

 

For re-assembly, save one of the old main bearing races and split it with a thin cutoff wheel.  You can use it to slide off and on by hand instead of having to use the tool every time when setting the crank end play.  I'd order a few of the extra shims that go behind the bearing race to have on hand as well.  They are relatively cheap and save waiting time.  There are a couple different thicknesses too.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply!  I am having trouble deciding what to do.  My KTM shop( a few states away) charge $275 to split the motor and get everything setup back together(plus parts) and $150 to have the crank redone by KTM.  The head/cylinder and piston are already out of it.  Its not too much more work to get the crank out with the right tools.  If i buy the gear quad tool and the KTM clutch holder to make sure i can torque everything back right I am at about $300 for the tools including the crank inner race tool.  I am thinking I will just buy the tools and send them just the crank.  The gear quad tool is $82 through them, not cheap but better than $150 retail.  I can't imagine they could get the crank end play setup somehow without the cases on the first try so i guess ill have the inner race tool and some compensating discs on hand. Ugh.  

 

Ive put the waterpump/clutch case on a few times without the alignment tool.  What is the issue by not using this?  I haven't had any trouble yet.

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The water pump shaft and gear has a weighted part built onto it.  I suspect it is to help act as a counter balancer for the engine.  There's another one on the other side by the timing chain too.  There is a mark on it that needs to line up with the mark on the crankshaft gear.  I'm guessing you did the same thing as me the first few times and had a very thin wall socket to put the nut on the shaft through the center of the water pump?  If you have the locating pin, you can put the case on/off without having to take the water pump apart.  Much easier. 

 

I could be wrong here for your case, as my 09 is actually the quad version of this engine.  My 08 450sxf dirt bike looks to be the same other than the water pump is up slightly higher.  The parts fitch shows them going together basically the same way though.

 

One thing I forgot above was that I also use a dial indicator setup to determine endplay.  Cheap ones can be had for $30-50 for the dial and stand.  I suppose feeler gages can be used too, but the dial is easy to see what you have right off the bat.

 

With regard to your decision about letting the shop do the bottom end, do you plan to keep the bike long enough that you could potentially need to rebuild it again, or have other bikes you could use the tools on?  If you're thinking it's only going to be a one time deal, might be worth letting the shop do it if you trust their work. 

Edited by quad97

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Quad my side case comes off without pulling the impeller. Its been off twice now with no issues. It also didnt move when it was off but ill check it over closely.

I have a dial indicator setup but thanks for adding it.

I have two of these bikes. The other is a 2012 but also hours unknown. I bought it used in 2012 and was raced but I believe has never been open so ill have to go in there next. Im thinking of building this motor and using it for supermoto and taking my 12 back to dirt trim. It just sucks cause both are ranping up now and I hadnt planned on a motor build.

I think ill buy the tools and send the crank out. At least I can inspect everything that way.

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Yeah im not worried about taking it apart and back together. I understand the process for checking the crank endplay etc. My main concern was the price between letting the shop handle it and the special tools for me to do it.

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FW puller is the only "special" tool.

 

The cam tool can be a chunk of aluminum

IMG_0325Small.jpg

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Quad my side case comes off without pulling the impeller. Its been off twice now with no issues. It also didnt move when it was off but ill check it over closely.

 

I can pull the cover on and off without taking the impeller off too.  Physically taking it on and off isn't an issue, just can't see where the marks on the gears line up exactly when it goes back together.  I see that the quad crank has two gears on it on the clutch/water pump side and the bike only has one.  The water pump shaft/balancer gear is the same part number though.  Does KTM not worry about having them lined up in the bike motor?  I wouldn't think so, but not sure.

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FW puller is the only "special" tool.

 

The cam tool can be a chunk of aluminum

IMG_0325Small.jpg

 

I had some cam journal issues fixed on the head and replaced cams.  They were set and timing all matches up so i "shouldn't" have to worry about that assuming everything goes  as planned.

 

I have a flywheel puller coming from motion pro and i ordered a few tools from KTM today.  Clutch holder(cause my setup wont work), and i ordered the protection plate and tool for splitting the cases.  Did you split your cases without using a crank tool?

 

I will most likely need to order the bearing race tool for the crank in order to set the crank endplay once i get it back, but i am going to send the crank out first and hear what they have to say.

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I only bought a flywheel puller then machines down a 36mm socket for the crank but behind the freewheel gear. But I got my 505 as a roller and a box of parts so I've got a long way too go still.

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I had some cam journal issues fixed on the head and replaced cams.  They were set and timing all matches up so i "shouldn't" have to worry about that assuming everything goes  as planned.

 

I have a flywheel puller coming from motion pro and i ordered a few tools from KTM today.  Clutch holder(cause my setup wont work), and i ordered the protection plate and tool for splitting the cases.  Did you split your cases without using a crank tool?

 

I will most likely need to order the bearing race tool for the crank in order to set the crank endplay once i get it back, but i am going to send the crank out first and hear what they have to say.

 

I have the std universal case splitter and i don't recall using it on a RF4. if you have a lathe (or access) the race removal tool is easy to make (or just use a torch to heat it up the race until it falls off)

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