///Z My Ride Posted March 31, 2015 I want to install the JD jet kit which came in the mail a few weeks ago but i've been contemplating about whether or not to pull the carb. On every carb i touched, I always could not get the throttle cables (snapback) dialed back in correctly. The directions said I could do the jetting with the carb installed just by loosing the clamps and rotating the carb. Should I follow the directions and do it that way? This carb looks like a pain to remove and I honestly don't want to deal with the re installation. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lcrouse Posted March 31, 2015 I have done it many times and it is a pain to remove the carb but I still do it because the space is extremely limited if you do it on the bike. You would have to remove the throttle cables to rotate the carb anyway. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///Z My Ride Posted March 31, 2015 I have done it many times and it is a pain to remove the carb but I still do it because the space is extremely limited if you do it on the bike. You would have to remove the throttle cables to rotate the carb anyway. so do you loosen the top screw on the throttle cable or the bottom one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lcrouse Posted March 31, 2015 If you have enough play, just loosen the top so when you put it back together, there should be no adjustment needed. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
madchild My Ride Posted March 31, 2015 I'm assuming you mean the nut on the cables. I loosen the top ones completely and there is just enough space to remove the cables from the carb. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///Z My Ride Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Ok i got the bike all torn down now. All the body panels are off including the tank. I'll try loosing both top nuts. Is there any other things that i need to remove off the carb in order to rotate it? edit: wow 5 secs after posting it i got it off lol. never mind then. Edited March 31, 2015 by ///Z Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///Z My Ride Posted March 31, 2015 Also, how the hell do you remove the plastic spacer on the stock jet needle?!?!? I can't get it off for the life of me. I got the metal clip off but not the plastic washer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cercious Posted March 31, 2015 Also, how the hell do you remove the plastic spacer on the stock jet needle?!?!? I can't get it off for the life of me. I got the metal clip off but not the plastic washer For me, I removed the clip first. Then I was able to push it down from the top. It's on there pretty tight. When you put it on your other needle, be sure to push it ALL the way to the clip. It will be tight on there, too. I just did the jetting on my '14 S last week. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///Z My Ride Posted March 31, 2015 And I actually just broke the slide..... what do i do now. i must've put the end cap over the jet in wrong...... how much would a replacement cost Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EssigB138 Posted April 1, 2015 I'm about to do this... Don't start freakin me out.. Lol. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///Z My Ride Posted April 1, 2015 This day went from good to bad to hell in a matter of hours. me breaking the diaphragm slide thing was my fault. the screws that are stripped on the carb are not. i had to pull the carb and scratched the hell out of my frame. i don't understand how the screws stripped this bad. I tried everything. i have to drill them out now. i have such deep hatred who put these butter like screws on the float bowl. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Diverdown Posted April 1, 2015 (edited) Stupid ass Jap's ! Edited April 1, 2015 by Throttle5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmwpowere36m3 Posted April 1, 2015 Stupid ass Jap's ! That and JIS screws… 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
38super Posted April 1, 2015 Think race hardware, use once and replace. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///Z My Ride Posted April 1, 2015 Think race hardware, use once and replace. haha yea i should just ditch my carb now and order the fcr 39mm. I'm so happy my jd jet kit came with allen wrench screws. I had issues with my float bowl screws on my bikes from the early 80s, you would think that they would fix that by now. I love Japanese stuff but this tight space and stupid carb has to go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
38super Posted April 1, 2015 Any phillips head tool either apex tip or screw driver needs to be shortened so the drive flutes fully engage. Too often the screw driver tip is too long and does not allow full flute engagement, this is where the metal peels and the fastener is worthless. It is common knowledge small japanese fasteners are soft, so is the metal they fasten. I don't think helicoil is an option. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lcrouse Posted April 1, 2015 Those don't look like the stock Allen head screws Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bmwpowere36m3 Posted April 1, 2015 Those don't look like the stock Allen head screws Stock isn't allen... its phillips. Unless things have changed over the years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
james509 My Rides (4) Posted April 1, 2015 Holly crap Dude, You need better tools. You might be able to grab the head of the screw with a small pair of vice grips and break it loose. I have a pair of snap-on little bitty pliers that I use for that sort of thing. If you can get to it with a hack-saw, you can cut a slot for a straight screw driver. If all else fails, drill the head off and turn the screw out with pliers when you pull the float bowl off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
k4f5x0r My Ride Posted April 1, 2015 Stock isn't allen... its phillips. Unless things have changed over the years. Nope, my 13 still has butter quality phillips Holly crap Dude, You need better tools. You might be able to grab the head of the screw with a small pair of vice grips and break it loose. I have a pair of snap-on little bitty pliers that I use for that sort of thing. If you can get to it with a hack-saw, you can cut a slot for a straight screw driver. If all else fails, drill the head off and turn the screw out with pliers when you pull the float bowl off. +1 to the vicegrips. I use them just to crack the bolts loose and had no issues after. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
