Good years for open cartridge forks, what size?

I have a 2007 200xc and am looking for plusher forks.  I want to buy some new/used open cartridge one's of a W.  Does anyone know what years they were particularly plusher? Also I did some research on what might fit and found most years are 48mm.  The newer years specs say 4860, does that mean they are 48mm? I saw some brand new 2013 ones's of a 450xc-w(4860) on ebay but knot sure if they will fit my 48mm clamps? I ride slow tight technical trails and we rarely get out of second gear(usually run clickers all the way out).

yes they are 48...those you found would be great.  I would say any 2009 and newer would be fine, you would just need to spring them correctly.  I had a friend do exactly the same thing as you, he bought a brand new set from a 2013 bike and put them on his 2010 250 xc along with the 20mm clamps and he is extremely happy. 

Thanks for the info I might get them my friend has a new 200xcw and loves the suspension its like a Cadillac compared to mine. And for sure I would spring them as I only weigh a hundred thirty pounds , & I'm sure the 450s come with heavier springs then the stock 200s do. I'm just a little hesitant they're asking 1100 . Still probably better than spending the money to revalve mine though.

that is pretty steep but forks are very expensive.  I got my friend the deal of the century on his forks, brand spanking new never rode on 2013 oc forks for $600.  The guy just wanted rid of them. 

 

You can probably get a good used set for under $500 if you are patient.  Good luck

Thanks, did see some used, 2011 ones for 600. Only thing was they we're revalved and sprung stiffer. I'll try to wait for a good deal thanks.

I have an '07 300 XC-W, pretty much the same hardware.  I weigh about 200 pounds and ride at an expert level.  I took some time, but I was able to get the forks working very, very well.  Everybody who rides my bike raves about the suspension.  Are you confident enough to do some mods on your own?  I'm guessing from your screen name that shipping forks off to the mainland is spendy.

Edited by Lehiguy

2009 there was a redesign of the OC forks. I would look for 2010 and newer.  Yes they can be made to work very well.  

Why not just have your forks revalved and save some $$$. I have a 2007 300xc and forks have been revalved.

They are great now. As far as know all the OC forks are very similar in design. Just a few changes over the years. I would revalve.

Yeah I thought about a revalve might be the way to go. I have done some of my own suspension work in the past on my wife here but seems more worth it to send it to the experts. And yes by the time you send it to a suspension place and shipping back and forth it does get pricey you might as well just buy some new/used open cartridge forks and they'd be just as good. Thanks for all the replies, if I don't find a good deal on open cartridge I probably will do a revalve.

Someone has to be the voice of dissent. Don't waste your money on a revalve. I spent a lot of time and money and effort on my 07 200xc forks. Although they were much better, I could never change their DNA. Busy and deflecting forks. Get yourself some CRF250x forks and take the plunge. They shouldn't necessarily have to be revalved. You will never get there with what you have and the CRFs are half the price of newer KTM forks.

Edited by Redrodent

That's what I was thinking, that's why I wanted to get some open cartridge forks. Are the 250 X forks as good and as plush as open cartridge ones?

Ok, want to know how to make those forks work? This isn't for the faint of heart, but since I concede that in stock form they flat suck, here you go.  Remove the mid-valve compression shims completely, use one of the large shims as a check valve.  On the bottom valve use the following shims starting from the bottom up; 8x.10, 16x.10, 20x.10, 10x.10, 4 each 24x.10.  I used a dremel to open up the compression ports on the bottom valve piston.  These are drastic reductions in compression dampening, but that's what it needs in order to stop deflecting.  Even with these settings, my compression adjuster is almost all the way open, and the rebound adjuster (this affects both compression and rebound) is more on the open side.  I run my oil level at 90mm to prevent bottoming.  It works very, very well like this.  Most of the small trail junk I don't even feel.

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