KYB SSS Clicker Maintenance

Read a few posts about people having issues with damaging the comp assembly clicker on these forks.


General rule is to be careful and not over torque when seating the needle (full clicks in). Today I noticed one of my clickers was somewhat binding up, especially when trying to change directions. I pulled the whole fork down, and even on its own it still didn't want to thread in and back cleanly without sometimes hanging up and requiring a bit more force than it should. I used some suspension fluid at the clicker, and also at the needle end (kind of soaked the lot) and with some movement its come good and working just like the other one.. but it has got me thinking. Is this common? Is it from making too many adjustments in the dirt/dust, or could it be water/cleaning products have sat around the clicker for a bit and started to seize it up.


I'm leaning towards the later, so make sure you dry the fork cap well. Compressed air probably only helps force water where it shouldn't be.. and I'm not sure how some penetrating oils will go on the rubber seals.

I had a similar issue this past week. the clicker did exactly as you said.

I took the cap off, and soaked it in penetrating oil for an hour. I also worked clicker through the range several times.

next, I used compressed air to get rid of the oil. I also used some slickoleum on the metering rod before I put cap back on.

it felt to me as if the customer had gone in too far with clicker due to the handle bar position. I got it to work, but the detent feels

more difficult to move than normal, but still works better than it did.

Did you remove the whole shaft from the clicker to lubricate?


I was thinking about it, but was time short so simply worked with the whole assembly. Also, will the needle pull right out? I didn't want to grab a hold and pull not being sure.


My thoughts are that its water sitting around the clicker that penetrates in and causes some issues.

Yes i unscrewed the shaft from clicker assembly. You can push metering rod out when separated. You could pull it out of shaft, but i don't want to mess up taper. Better to push out after apart.

Thanks for the info. Thats what I was thinking too. For what its worth, using some suspension fluid and allowing it to work itself into the clicker has free'd mine right up to where it will easily turn and click. As good as new.. but also something I would like to stop from occurring again.

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