i've got a few question for you experts,my front is way too stiff,the bike jumps front-high and its hard to keep the front-end down,my oil height is at 140mm,i didnt have a screwdriver to bleed the air at the track but when i got back to the house and bled them i got a little pssst..out of one side and less out of the other does the air make that much difference???#2 the rebound adjusters will not bottom out the same,so when i back them off say 11 clicks, one is sticking up farther than the other??this cant be right can it??i havent made adjustment to the compression yet,i'm at 11 clicks out on compression. thanks in advance.....jimbo

Not sure about the rebound adjusters being un-even, I'd like to hear what everyone else has to say about that too.

Make sure your forks are aligned at the front axle, this will make them VERY harsh. Also be sure the pinch bolts on the lower triple clamps are not overly tight. I think 15-18 ft/lps? Check the manual.

Make sure when you check the oil height that you fully extend the outer tube at least once to release the oil trapped between the tubes into the mail chamber. Also be sure the compression rod is fully compressed.

Are you new to jumping dirtbikes? Technique is a big factor.

Dave S

dave, thanks for the reply,new to jumping dirtbikes??no i've just been on a 18 year hiatus and at 41 have gotten back into it,maybe my technique is a little rusty but the harshness is there and i will check what you recommended, the pinch bolt thing i understand but making sure the forks being aligined at the front axle???you lost me on that one???

Basically you want to make sure the fork legs are perfectly parallel with each other.

The least effort you can put into this is to loosen the axle pinch bolts on the right side and compress the forks several times with the front brake on. If the right fork tube is able to slide back and forth on the axle (no one has taken a hammer or screwdriver to them! and they are clean) the fork should find its own spot and tighten it up and go ride.

Many people like to take it a step further and measure at the top of the lower/inner fork tube and the bottom of the lower/inner fork tube to be sure they are parallel.

If the forks are not parallel they will bind up as they compress and you will not be happy with them

Dave S

dave thanks again, now i understand what your talking about,the measurement should be equal at the top of slider leg and i'll check that and pinch tork, next who's got the answer for re-bound clicker??? does the air built-up make that much of a difference??

[ February 13, 2002: Message edited by: RIDEPATE ]

I had the same thing with the rebound clicker.

There is a jam nut on the damper rod assembly that dictates the position of the fork caps, and thus the relative position of the rebound clickers. If the jam nut position is different between the two forks, the rebound clicker adjusters will bottom out at different heights.

To be sure that the jam nut is properly positioned, take your fork caps off (follow the instructions in the manual). The manual specifies the distance that the jam nut should be from the top of the damper rod (basically almost all the way down).

I could see that if the jam nut came loose, the damper rod could come loose from the fork cap and your forks would not work right.

Check it out.


Steve T


Was your bike stiff only this one time or has this been going on since you had it?

And was the "psst" noise pressure or vacuum?

And yes, those clickers should be the same. You'll need to remove the top cap and make sure it's seating on to the comp rod before the jam nut is ran up (this will make sense when you open it up).

Just remove the bars, loosen the top clamp bolts, and break open the top of both forks. Put something under the wheel to get the assemblies up in the air.

And Dave's advice on making sure the forks are aligned should be a religion. I use a homemade tool that assures perfect alignment, since the bounce method is a little hooky.

Let us know what you find.


Steve, thanks now you got me thinking,it would be a sure bet probably that the jam nut has changed i'll check it out, DAVE, yesterday was my first time on the bike so i was just going on what i felt then (i havent forgotten everything!!)i knew it wasn't right, the guy i bought this bike from was "supposed" to know what he was doing, but after i got it home and torn down heres what i found, carb loose (he said it idled high sometimes duhhhh),chain rollers frozen,spark-plug cap not even pushed down on plug,and guess what.....he's had the forks apart..(changed the level to 140).......ding!! so i see what i've got to do but other wise it runs great. oh yeah the pssst.. was pressure jim

[ February 13, 2002: Message edited by: RIDEPATE ]


Have at it. If you find that the front end is still too stiff after gettng things back in shape, let us know.

Sounds like you may have to double check all the clicker settings as well.


Dave, i started tearing it down last night after work, i'd be willing to bet the oil level is not correct either so i'm gonna check it all while i'm at it, i made a quick aligniment check before taking off the wheel and although it was real close the bottom was in just a bit. i'll let ya'll know. thanks jim


Dave is correct about the fork being harsh due them not being aligned at the axle. Here is a pretty basic procedure to get them paralell with eachother.


The correct installation of the front forks is essential to proper suspension operation.

1. Put bike on a stand that will enable front tire to be off the ground.

2. Install forks in triple clamps, Ensure that both forks are the same height in the triple clamps, (refer to your owners manual for the correct dimension). Also, make sure that the bleed screws are towards the front, this will make bleeding the air from your forks easier.

3. Tighten each bolt (in an alternating fashion) in the top clamps to 220 inlbs.

4. Tighten the lower clamp pinch bolts to 168 inlbs. (Over tightening of the lower pinch bolts may result in a mid-stroke harshness condition).

5. Install front wheel assembly sometimes it helps to pry the brake pads apart a little with a screw driver before bringing the wheel into position).

6. BEFORE tightening any pinch bolts go ahead and fully tighten the axel nut. (If you cannot hold the axel to tighten the nut, go ahead and tighten the right side pinch bolts just to hold the axel while you tighten the nut. MAKE sure you loosen the right side axel nut pinch bolts before you proceed any further).

7. Spin the front wheel and abruptly apply front brake, repeat this a few times.

8. Let off of the front brake and tighten the left side (caliper side) pinch bolts to manufacturer recommended torque rating.

9. Again, spin the front wheel and abruptly apply front brake, repeat a few times.

10. Tighten right side pinch bolt to recommended torque value.

This procedure will ensure that the front forks are parallel and that no binding will occur. Ride and Enjoy!!

Take Care, John

O.K UPDATE, i got the forks pulled down and the oil level was 160mm, i'm gonna re-fill to stock specs which is 137 if i remember right and try it there, the damper rod nuts were in fact un-even one was at 20mm the other was at 16 so there was my re-bound clicker problem. oh yeah one more thing what's the best thing to pack the dust seal with?? and the damper rods have a little light rust on them,it's not much but when you run your finger over them you can feel it, i think some scotch- brite will take care of it, wonder what caused that??

thanks jim

[ February 15, 2002: Message edited by: RIDEPATE ]

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