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Beta xtrainer jetting

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14 minutes ago, WRider995 said:

You can access the pilot jet and main jet by loosening the clamps for the rubber carb boots and rotating it.  You will need to remove the plastic guard for the front sprocket.  Then take the carb vent hoses out of the wire holder.  Rotate the carb bottom left.  Then take the 4 phillips screws off of float bowl.  Remove and now you have access to PJ and MJ.  

To take the whole carb out of rubber boots, take the lower subframe allen bolts out.  The zip ties on it for frame guard will slide down.  Now remove the 2 silencer mount bolts.  Remove right side forward side panel to access forward silencer mount bolt.  Loosen forward subframe bolts (10mm) where the subframe meets the frame.  Take the 8mm gas tank mounting bolts out.  Now it will pivot upward.  Pivot it after you loosened clamps on carb boot.  Use a couple bungees from fender to handlebar after you pivot subframe.  This will allow you to get carb out of rubber boots it sits in.  You can access the float bowl easier now.  Do the reverse to remount.  I used a little silicon spray to get boots to slide on carb easier.  It's still tricky, but it will go.  

Now, to change the needle you may want to do it how I did.  Once the carb is back in the boots, you take the plastic radiator covers off.  Drain the gas tank, ON and Reserve.  Remove the forward connector black hose under tank.  Just pull it off, may have to wiggle a bit.  Leave it off, and lift tank off of the bike.  Now you can access the top of carb.  There are two black allen bolts to remove at top of carb, they are small.  Use your allen wrench and a pliers on the end of allen wrench to loosen.  Top of carb lifts off.  Pull the slide out along with cable.  Pull spring back from on top of slide.  Throttle cable comes out, just push down and move to side out of keyslot.  Take your slide to the workbench.  Loosen 6mm keeper for needle inside slide with a 6mm socket.  The needle will come out when you tip slide upside down.  Take the clip off the needle with a pliers.  Keep it in the pliers and place it on the new needle you are using or move it to a different clip setting.  Make sure it snaps on nicely, I've had 2 of these launch in garage this year and were never found.  Even if you watch them land these clips can never ever be found.  The higher the clip is placed on the needle the leaner the jetting for the needle will be.  Lower clip positions are richer.  Put it back together in reverse order.  But, when you put the throttle cable back into its keeper in the slide make sure the white plastic nub (at bottom of throttle spring) sits in the slot where the cable sits in the slide.  That nub is the keeper for the throttle cable.  Next you'll feed the slide into the carb, but you must lift the little cam inside for the throttle position sensor.  Lifting it will allow the slide to go to the bottom where it is supposed to sit.  This method is probably easier than removing the whole carb, at least it was for me.  

After you get it back together, twist the throttle and make sure the spring isn't binding at all in carb.  You should NOT hear and feel a click, it should be a smooth throttle.  Then start it up and ride it.  Make sure things are working properly.  I hope this helps somebody....

No need to take bowl off just take the plug out of the bottom of the bowl to get main and pilot. No need to drain tank either that connection does not leak when disconnected. Leave shrouds on tank and lift it out 

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Trust me, that connection leaks when it's disconnected.  Just ask my garage floor.  I did leave the shrouds on now that you mention it.  

 

 

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You can access the pilot jet and main jet by loosening the clamps for the rubber carb boots and rotating it.  You will need to remove the plastic guard for the front sprocket.  Then take the carb vent hoses out of the wire holder.  Rotate the carb bottom left.  Then take the 4 phillips screws off of float bowl.  Remove and now you have access to PJ and MJ.  
To take the whole carb out of rubber boots, take the lower subframe allen bolts out.  The zip ties on it for frame guard will slide down.  Now remove the 2 silencer mount bolts.  Remove right side forward side panel to access forward silencer mount bolt.  Loosen forward subframe bolts (10mm) where the subframe meets the frame.  Take the 8mm gas tank mounting bolts out.  Now it will pivot upward.  Pivot it after you loosened clamps on carb boot.  Use a couple bungees from fender to handlebar after you pivot subframe.  This will allow you to get carb out of rubber boots it sits in.  You can access the float bowl easier now.  Do the reverse to remount.  I used a little silicon spray to get boots to slide on carb easier.  It's still tricky, but it will go.  
Now, to change the needle you may want to do it how I did.  Once the carb is back in the boots, you take the plastic radiator covers off.  Drain the gas tank, ON and Reserve.  Remove the forward connector black hose under tank.  Just pull it off, may have to wiggle a bit.  Leave it off, and lift tank off of the bike.  Now you can access the top of carb.  There are two black allen bolts to remove at top of carb, they are small.  Use your allen wrench and a pliers on the end of allen wrench to loosen.  Top of carb lifts off.  Pull the slide out along with cable.  Pull spring back from on top of slide.  Throttle cable comes out, just push down and move to side out of keyslot.  Take your slide to the workbench.  Loosen 6mm keeper for needle inside slide with a 6mm socket.  The needle will come out when you tip slide upside down.  Take the clip off the needle with a pliers.  Keep it in the pliers and place it on the new needle you are using or move it to a different clip setting.  Make sure it snaps on nicely, I've had 2 of these launch in garage this year and were never found.  Even if you watch them land these clips can never ever be found.  The higher the clip is placed on the needle the leaner the jetting for the needle will be.  Lower clip positions are richer.  Put it back together in reverse order.  But, when you put the throttle cable back into its keeper in the slide make sure the white plastic nub (at bottom of throttle spring) sits in the slot where the cable sits in the slide.  That nub is the keeper for the throttle cable.  Next you'll feed the slide into the carb, but you must lift the little cam inside for the throttle position sensor.  Lifting it will allow the slide to go to the bottom where it is supposed to sit.  This method is probably easier than removing the whole carb, at least it was for me.  
After you get it back together, twist the throttle and make sure the spring isn't binding at all in carb.  You should NOT hear and feel a click, it should be a smooth throttle.  Then start it up and ride it.  Make sure things are working properly.  I hope this helps somebody....


You are doing things the hard way.

You can remove the main and pilot thru the float bowl drain bolt, no need to remove the bowl.

There is also enough clearance to rotate the carb counter clockwise to remove the needle without removing the shrouds or fuel tank.
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Got it.  PJ and MJ thru float bowl drain.  Lets repeat it a few more times.  

I didn't want to rotate that far adding tension to the mess going on at the top of the carb.  It's done now, so let's say I "did" it the hard way.  Thanks for chiming in though.  

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You are doing things the hard way.

You can remove the main and pilot thru the float bowl drain bolt, no need to remove the bowl.

There is also enough clearance to rotate the carb counter clockwise to remove the needle without removing the shrouds or fuel tank.


I was able to swap the needle without raising the subframe in the field, but boy is it tight and gotta watch bending those needles.

If you have time and are in the garage I advocate raising the subframe and removing the carb, which you have to do to set float level assuming you use the manual method.

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Got it.  PJ and MJ thru float bowl drain.  Lets repeat it a few more times.  
I didn't want to rotate that far adding tension to the mess going on at the top of the carb.  It's done now, so let's say I "did" it the hard way.  Thanks for chiming in though.  


Lol.

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I was able to swap the needle without raising the subframe in the field, but boy is it tight and gotta watch bending those needles.

If you have time and are in the garage I advocate raising the subframe and removing the carb, which you have to do to set float level assuming you use the manual method.

For sure raising the subframe is the way to go if removing the carb. That's exactly how I did it when I set my float level. But to swap or change needle positions, completely unnecessary.
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On 6/27/2017 at 9:25 PM, WRider995 said:

You can access the pilot jet and main jet by loosening the clamps for the rubber carb boots and rotating it.  You will need to remove the plastic guard for the front sprocket.  Then take the carb vent hoses out of the wire holder.  Rotate the carb bottom left.  Then take the 4 phillips screws off of float bowl.  Remove and now you have access to PJ and MJ.  

To take the whole carb out of rubber boots, take the lower subframe allen bolts out.  The zip ties on it for frame guard will slide down.  Now remove the 2 silencer mount bolts.  Remove right side forward side panel to access forward silencer mount bolt.  Loosen forward subframe bolts (10mm) where the subframe meets the frame.  Take the 8mm gas tank mounting bolts out.  Now it will pivot upward.  Pivot it after you loosened clamps on carb boot.  Use a couple bungees from fender to handlebar after you pivot subframe.  This will allow you to get carb out of rubber boots it sits in.  You can access the float bowl easier now.  Do the reverse to remount.  I used a little silicon spray to get boots to slide on carb easier.  It's still tricky, but it will go.  

Now, to change the needle you may want to do it how I did.  Once the carb is back in the boots, you take the plastic radiator covers off.  Drain the gas tank, ON and Reserve.  Remove the forward connector black hose under tank.  Just pull it off, may have to wiggle a bit.  Leave it off, and lift tank off of the bike.  Now you can access the top of carb.  There are two black allen bolts to remove at top of carb, they are small.  Use your allen wrench and a pliers on the end of allen wrench to loosen.  Top of carb lifts off.  Pull the slide out along with cable.  Pull spring back from on top of slide.  Throttle cable comes out, just push down and move to side out of keyslot.  Take your slide to the workbench.  Loosen 6mm keeper for needle inside slide with a 6mm socket.  The needle will come out when you tip slide upside down.  Take the clip off the needle with a pliers.  Keep it in the pliers and place it on the new needle you are using or move it to a different clip setting.  Make sure it snaps on nicely, I've had 2 of these launch in garage this year and were never found.  Even if you watch them land these clips can never ever be found.  The higher the clip is placed on the needle the leaner the jetting for the needle will be.  Lower clip positions are richer.  Put it back together in reverse order.  But, when you put the throttle cable back into its keeper in the slide make sure the white plastic nub (at bottom of throttle spring) sits in the slot where the cable sits in the slide.  That nub is the keeper for the throttle cable.  Next you'll feed the slide into the carb, but you must lift the little cam inside for the throttle position sensor.  Lifting it will allow the slide to go to the bottom where it is supposed to sit.  This method is probably easier than removing the whole carb, at least it was for me.  

After you get it back together, twist the throttle and make sure the spring isn't binding at all in carb.  You should NOT hear and feel a click, it should be a smooth throttle.  Then start it up and ride it.  Make sure things are working properly.  I hope this helps somebody....

Very big help! Thank you!

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For needle clip removal, I place the E-clip opening towards the work bench, cover it with a paper towel, add a little pressure to the needle and the clip will pop off. The paper towel will catch the clip and prevent it from flying across the room.

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On 3/11/2018 at 10:13 PM, FUHL said:

For needle clip removal, I place the E-clip opening towards the work bench, cover it with a paper towel, add a little pressure to the needle and the clip will pop off. The paper towel will catch the clip and prevent it from flying across the room.

Good plan! There's a reason they call them Jesus clips.

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