Beta xtrainer jetting

Ok, here is another update for jetting at 800 ft

MJ: 152

PJ: 38

A/S: 1.75-2 turn out.

Needle: JD Red at 4 clip

Air temp is from 70 to 85 F.

this is JD's 0-4000 ft suggestion and seems to be spot on. Nice job

 

My daughter rides a 2015 xtrainer and complained about the burble on the bottom end, it would kind of sputter/burble and then take off a bit above 1/8th throttle. Very irritating at slow speeds in rocks. The JD kit fixed it but I have to say it probably was not due to the needle as the needle should not have any affect until more throttle. The PJ was a 35 and JD says to use their 38PJ which i suspect is what fixed it. I have used many JD kits and am a big fan. I will also say there is more topend now and does wheelies much easier so the needle does help. I had tried both the needle that came on the bike and the one they give you. So in the end I suggest you just get the JD kit.

Hey I installed that exact same jetting today!  Stock was pretty good but I've always had great luck with JD so thought I'd try it this weekend. 

 

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Hey I installed that exact same jetting today! Stock was pretty good but I've always had great luck with JD so thought I'd try it this weekend.

DSC_1714_zpsx1cuz0xw.jpg

Let me know how it works for ya. I pulled the boot back into the air box and it made getting the carb out pretty easy. However was a bitch getting the boot back, probably not worth it. Lol

Hey I installed that exact same jetting today!  Stock was pretty good but I've always had great luck with JD so thought I'd try it this weekend. 

 

DSC_1714_zpsx1cuz0xw.jpg

 

No need to take the float bowl cover off - you can change either idle or main jets opening only the 17mm drain screw.

No need to take the float bowl cover off - you can change either idle or main jets opening only the 17mm drain screw.

I wanted to check the float level.

Posted on the Facebook group. Going to give a try to N1EK and 150 main riding CA high desert.

 

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I wanted to see if there was any debris in the bottom of the float bowl since a friend of mine had found some so I loosened the boot clamps & turned the carb & was able to remove the 17mm drain screw. While I was at it I figured I would try to see the best way to change jetting if needed so I tried to turn the carb both ways to see if I could access the needle & float bowl & it doesn't seem possible. Maybe the needle can be accessed from the top with the gas tank off? I assume you folks are removing the carb for jets in the float bowl? Any tips? It seems that the boot to the air-box might be removable?

Or is this the best way;

 

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Edited by Bedunjgi

Or is this the best way;

 

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That's what I ended up doing to reinstall the carb after rejetting. I could remove it w/o doing that, but not putting it back in. I also agree with you that accessing the jets requires removal. Needle access can be done with carb in place.

I wanted to check the float level.

If just checking float level, I just hold the bowl drain line up on open the drain screw. It gives you actual fuel height in the carb. A sharpie reference mark on the carb can be used for future comparisons.

I don't think there is a drain screw on the XT. I was looking & wishing there was.

 

If just checking float level, I just hold the bowl drain line up on open the drain screw. It gives you actual fuel height in the carb. A sharpie reference mark on the carb can be used for future comparisons.

Edited by Bedunjgi

I forgot, why did you change the jetting for Hawaii?

 

That's what I ended up doing to reinstall the carb after rejetting. I could remove it w/o doing that, but not putting it back in. I also agree with you that accessing the jets requires removal. Needle access can be done with carb in place.

I forgot, why did you change the jetting for Hawaii?

installed a JD jet kit.

Or is this the best way;

 

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Thats the way to do it, I generally use that method :thumbsup:  more so on 4 strokes tho

In case anyone is interested, its from page 13 & 14 of the Shop Manual. Here is the text & another photo (Don't forget to remove & plug the oil mixer line);

 

∙ Loosen the carburetor straps from the air filter sleeve and from the manifold.

∙ Remove the seat rail lower fixing screws 14 (one each side) and loosen the upper screws 15 (one each side). 

  • ∙  Rotate the filter box unit.

  • ∙  Remove the carburettor from the manifold leaving it connected to the gas cable.

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You can get the carb in and out without removing the subframe.

Pinch the rear boot, pull the carb back and wiggle it out....and yes remove the injection line first.

"Pinch"?

 

You can get the carb in and out without removing the subframe.
Pinch the rear boot, pull the carb back and wiggle it out....and yes remove the injection line first.

I set out to raise my needle & was able to do it by rotating the top of the carb towards me & doing it from the left side without removing the tank. Very convenient. While I was at it, I wanted to see if I could access the main & pilot. I removed the screw that holds the front of the knockdown bar from my case saver from the clutch slave, rotated the bar up behind the frame & was able to rotate the carb to access the jet access / drain bolt. I might be able to remove the bowl as well. It there isnt enough room, it seems that more room can be had if the expansion chamber is off.

Edited by Bedunjgi

I have been experimenting with my JD Jetting kit settings with an open airbox. I also have my oil injector removed & have been running Motul 800 @ 60:1. Its very good except or a lean spot between the pilot & needle transition. Any suggestions?

Edited by Bedunjgi

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