Ultimate MX Hauler Issues

After a lot of research on hitch mount carriers I settled on the Ultimate MX Hauler for my 2005 DRZ400s. The build quality is superb however I did run into two issues, one of which I fixed easily with a bench grinder and the other I am still thinking of ideas.

 

The first issue was with the part the bottle jack sits on. The bottle jack would not line up with the supplied bracket that holds it in place or with the pressure plate receiver the where the top of the bottle jack applies its force. The reason it would not line up was because whoever welded the tab that holds the bottle jack bracket forgot to clean up the weld, or they welded it on the wrong side. I fixed this issue by grinding down the cast iron base plate of the bottle jack until it cleared the weld. It now lines up perfectly. This issue was a minor let down for the money I paid but I imagine it would have been a major let down for someone who does not own a bench grinder.

 

The second issue I am still thinking over my options. The issue I am having is the pegs on a stock DRZ400s do not line up with the receiving holes for the peg bolts. The stock pegs have rubber in them when you unscrew the bolt that holds them in there is a metal plate welding in the center of the peg, however there is a gap at the outer most part of the peg just big enough to let the peg bolts supplied with the MX Hauler slide through. The problem is the peg bolts at the outer most point on the pegs do not fit into the MX Hauler, the spacing on the plate is not wide enough.

 

Possible solutions:

 

1.    Use the hooks at the top of the peg bolts to hook into the peg as it is bolted down without actually putting the peg bolts through the pegs.

a.     I do not like this solution as it does not feel stable if I apply pressure to the rear of the bike. It might be okay if I could put the peg bolts behind the pegs but I cannot do that because my lower linkage hits the plate not allowing me to move the bike further forward to create room for the bolts behind the pegs (See pics below).

2.    Drill out the plate that is welded in the center of the pegs to hold the rubber.

a.     Will the hurt the structural integrity of the peg? Have any of you done this?

3.    Buy new pegs

a.     I am leaning toward this option.

 

Any help is appreciated! Thank you!

 

 

 

 

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I wouldnt trust that """ultimate hitch hauler"" lol

So this carrier supports the bike bike under the frame and its only attachment points is through the pegs? You could remove the center section of the peg and see how it goes or for different pegs Pivotpegz from ThumperTalk store is a nice upgrade ($150). I dont remember what the center section of the pivotpegz looks like but I can post a pick tomorrow if you are interested.

Change out the pegs.  The stock S pegs really suck unless you do street only riding.  The first peg mod I did was take a second set of S pegs cut in half and welded to the originals.  That was so I could keep the rubber bits.  Then I ran E pegs.  Now I have a cheap set of cast ones from E-bay.  They are passible.  I would spend money on a decent set next time though.  Wider pegs are great in and of themselves.

 

Pivot pegs get great reviews but are spendy.

I've had mine for quite a while.  The bolt goes through the peg on one side and over the peg on the other.  Stock pegs, no issues.

Ride the bike,  tis got a plate.   :ride:

isn't there a bed in that "truck" to put the bike in?

having the rear wheel on the tailgate is ok.

I wouldnt trust that """ultimate hitch hauler"" lol

 

Yeah it is a bit sketchy, which is why I want to make sure I get it right.

 

 

So this carrier supports the bike bike under the frame and its only attachment points is through the pegs? You could remove the center section of the peg and see how it goes or for different pegs Pivotpegz from ThumperTalk store is a nice upgrade ($150). I dont remember what the center section of the pivotpegz looks like but I can post a pick tomorrow if you are interested.

 

If you could get me a picture that would be great! What is the advantage of pivot pegs? I am not sure I would like that...

 

 

Change out the pegs.  The stock S pegs really suck unless you do street only riding.  The first peg mod I did was take a second set of S pegs cut in half and welded to the originals.  That was so I could keep the rubber bits.  Then I ran E pegs.  Now I have a cheap set of cast ones from E-bay.  They are passible.  I would spend money on a decent set next time though.  Wider pegs are great in and of themselves.

 

Pivot pegs get great reviews but are spendy.

 

I did not know they made cast ones.. good to know. I think I do want wider pegs. Thanks for the info.

 

 

I've had mine for quite a while.  The bolt goes through the peg on one side and over the peg on the other.  Stock pegs, no issues.

 

Ah that is great idea! I did not think about trying that. The side that goes over the peg, is the bolt behind the peg or in front of it?

 

 

Ride the bike,  tis got a plate.   :ride:

 

Believe me I would if I could! :thumbsup:  I am going to be using this for when I move from Ohio to Colorado so I need to carry all my stuff in my truck.

 

 

isn't there a bed in that "truck" to put the bike in?

having the rear wheel on the tailgate is ok.

 

Yes it actually works great with a ramp and two straps in the back, the rear wheel on the tail gate is no issue. However it is not the easiest think to do by yourself and I will be using this on my move out to Colorado, so I want to pack the bed with all my stuff. 

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They are pretty massive pegs. They only rotate slightly foward/back and are spring loaded to return back to level. I dont really notice the tilting while riding, my feet just feel more planted on the pegs.

Ah that is great idea! I did not think about trying that. The side that goes over the peg, is the bolt behind the peg or in front of it?

 

I don't even recall which way it goes, but it's obvious once you get the bike fully forward.  The original builders told me about this.  It's ok as long as one bolt is through a peg.  Someone else bought them out.  My only issue was a leaky jack which I replaced.  You have to slow down for any bumps or ditches diagonal to your path.  It will make the bike torque around the receiver and that's a lot of weight to throw around.

Hey all. Just wanted to update the thread in case anyone was wondering what I ended up doing. I took SkyOrDie's advice and put one bolt through the peg toward the truck and the other just in from of it. I drove from Ohio to Utah with the truck loaded down and the bike on the back. Each time I stopped to get gas I check all the bolts that hold it together and not one was loose, even the ones that hold the bike to the plate. Overall I would highly recommend this product if your are in the market for a hitch mount carrier. They also make a channel type with a higher weight rating which I'm sure is equally as good. Thanks for the help guys!

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