ordering today need your help

I have an E converted to SM. I have no idea howmany miles were on it when I bought it but since then I put about 3000 miles. Lately it's burning quite a bit of oil. I'm doing a rebuild, I know it's been covered before but im having a hard time finding info that is best for me. As with most people, I want the best bang for the buck. I don't know what condition the cylinder is in so I was leaning twards a new cylinder too. Big bore kits seem like the popular option, it wasn't I wanted to do originally but since I want a new cylinder then why not go a little bigger. While I'm in there I am thinking about replacing valves too, I want 1 piece just for piece of mind. Everyone (from what I have read) says to get the RSC (not sure that's the correct acronym) but they are really expensive and just Ferrea valves. Ferrea valves are hard to find, they are my first choice, second choice are the wiesco 1 pc (seen someone reciently say they were junk but only one person had that opinion). Which valves are the best bang for the buck? I know the best piston is going to be a forged piston so I'm looking at either wiesco or je, which is better? Are the piston coatings like skirts and face worth the extra? Do the je/wiesco piston BB kits come with coated pistons? Some pics show coated pistons and some don't but they all say pic is a generic pic. Does anybody use total seal piston rings? Is there a benefit for using the total seal ring? Is there a benefit to do some piston drilling (behind the ring seats)? Is there any mod that is known for deburring/opening oil return passages or areas that hold oil that should be draining back to the pump? Is there any deburring or gasket opening matching for the cooling passages? Should I replace timing chain while in there, I'm looking again twards wiesco? When should the oil pump be looked at/replaced/rebuilt? Thank you for any input.

WOW that is a lot of wide open to differing opinions to each of your questions. You can get the valves from Ferrea. They are in Florida. Look in their online PDF catalog. If they will not sell direct you can be referred to a dealer. When using the Ferrea valves I believe you need different keepers to get a correctly held fit. RHC Ron use to use Ferreas and had them coated then sold them. Same with the RHC cams to his spec.


Coatings never hurt. But you will pay for them. Most BB kits pistons are bare. Coatings are special order. Coated skirts with a cassidium coated wrist pin is a good way to go. Don't know about piston top coating. That coating would be for heat protection. 


When you have your engine on your bench clean up whatever channels you deem restricted. But better be careful. A slip or trim to much can cause problems.


I recommend you stick with the OEM cam chain. Most all other brands have not proven themselves to be better. Sometimes cheaper IS cheaper.


Lots of engine builders have done and do some or all of the things you talk about. The question is...should you yourself delve into those areas?


I recommend CP Pistons. CPK3003 is the 94mm piston kit. Places like Millennium Tech can bore and plate your cylinder to match your piston if you send in the pair. I recently had Mr O'Dell send my cylinder to MT and had them order a CP M3003 with a coated skirt and cass'd wrist pin. Once they got the piston they bored and plated and honed the cylinder to match. About $500. Yes it is pricier than a CW kit. My build. My way.


Do your build the way you feel is best and fits your budget. Putting in a BB kit and adding a FCRMX39 is really doable. Making it right and at its optimum is the hard part.

Cylinder Works BB kit is the best bang for your buck.....DRZ Engine 

JE or Vertex is my preference in pistons

OEM valves are as good as any

Get a good head shop to triple cut your new valves...

Replace cam chain if yours is worn, Manual Cam Chain Tensioner is a worthwhile investment...

I wouldn't be concerned about most of the other stuff your asking...




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