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Thinner Head gasket

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I have heard that a company makes a 2mm thinner head gasket for the Kx 125 that will increase bottom end a little bit. Is this true? If so, can anyone point me in the direction of that company?

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Might be .2mm thinner.  Power gain will be probably unnoticeable.  Increasing compression meaningfully will require head machining and would probably mean you would no longer be able to run the bike on pump gas.

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I suggest you leave everything stock if you don't want to start messing with :

 

-squish area measurements and calculations

-risks of detonation if jetting isn't perfect

-from then on using higher octane/race fuel

 

Always having a fresh top-end / fresh reeds / spot-on jetting will be more beneficial to you.

Edited by mlatour

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best thing for a bit more power would be some port work, but as mlatour said, once you start doing work you can run into issues with other things.

 

might be time to look at a 250 if you need more from the 125.

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It's a 1996. Thanks for all the tips. If a bigger bike was in the budget I would spring for that. I sure do miss my 450. I'm trying to turn the 125 into a tight single track hare scrambles weapon so I figured a lil more bottom end without having to buy a fly wheel weight would be nice.

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This is a subject a lot of people misunderstand.  Flywheels can only store energy.  If you need more power to the ground a lighter flywheel will deliver it.  A heavier flywheel soaks up power when the engine is revving up to deliver it when the load bike is carrying overwhelms the engine power and the RPM begins to drop.

 

If you feel like your bike hits too hard a heavier flywheel can help.  If you are looking for better traction a heavier flywheel can help.  For the most power to be delivered at any time to the rear wheel you want as little flywheel and as light of a crank as possible.

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It's a 1996. Thanks for all the tips. If a bigger bike was in the budget I would spring for that. I sure do miss my 450. I'm trying to turn the 125 into a tight single track hare scrambles weapon so I figured a lil more bottom end without having to buy a fly wheel weight would be nice.

 

There's no one thing that will turn a MX bike into a XC bike. It's a combination of things. 18"rear wheel, Programmable Ignition, porting, suspension etc.

 

As for a thinner gasket. You'll benefit more and gain more HP from getting the squish properly setup for the fuel/gas you use.

 

It'll cost more $$ to get that bike setup "properly" for off road than it will to buy a new bike and it still won't even be close to being anywhere near as good as a KTM200. I've spent twice the value of a new KTM200 on my RM 125 to find that out the hard way :facepalm:  :lol: .

Edited by AddictedToBling
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Here's my RM144 XC.

 

001_zpsb8qa9jx8.jpg

 

002_zpsfg3ybs0j.jpg

 

 

TSP (Two Stroke Performance) RM 144cc engine

 

Ported for XC.

Full house Micro Blu ceramic bearings.

Boysen Rad Valve and engine covers.

Hinson clutch basket and new OEM clutch.

Marura Hydro clutch.

DEP 144cc pipe.

Lectron carb.

TSP programmable CDI with custom maps and mapping switch.

VHT head with custom squish and ceramic coating.

New OEM gears with Isotropic Super Finish

 

2013 RMZ roller.

 

CMT carbon fuel tank.

18" rear wheel with Tu-Bliss kits and Pirelli rubber. 18/110 on the rear.

Braking rotors, OS on the front.

Braided brake lines.

Acerbis brush guards and chain slider kit.

"Tugger" straps.

Carbon protection.

TE carbon/composite flex bars. 3x flex, Windham bend.

Applied triple clamps and billet head stem.

Scott's steering dampener.

HammerHead Billet brake pedal and gear shifter.

Talon Evo wheels.

Billet pegs.

7mm Lowered sub frame and cut down seat.

 

Haven't had the suspension done for XC yet :blush:.  My XC suspension is on my MX bike and the MX suspension is on the XC bike ATM   :rolleyes: .

 

Had the carby apart for the first time before this ride, cleaning it and didn't realize I moved the metering rod so It's running rich in this Vid   :facepalm: . Plus my riding sux ATM :lol: .

 

Anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzJu3OwVmPA

 

2nd track wasn't a bad effort, considering my currant fitness. I coughed my guts up for 20 minutes after I finished though.  My mate hip and shouldered a tree, so we went home and quite while we were both still "behind" :lol: .

 

I was attempting to build a better ST bike than the KTM200. I'm close :ride: .

 

Here's a good Video showing how to ride a small bore 2T in XC   :thumbsup: .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xvRJDwQ6jA

Edited by AddictedToBling

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best thing for a bit more power would be some port work, but as mlatour said, once you start doing work you can run into issues with other things.

 

might be time to look at a 250 if you need more from the 125.

I love helpful answers like this. A guy asks about a thinner head gasket and he gets a knowledgable board veteran tells him that he should buy a faster bike. I'm a little surprised he didn't get an answer to hold the throttle on longer ,have his suspension valved or go to a riding school too. It's probably a good idea for newer riders not to come to message boards to be guided by silly answers and figure things on thier own.

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Here's my RM144 XC.

 

001_zpsb8qa9jx8.jpg

 

002_zpsfg3ybs0j.jpg

 

 

TSP (Two Stroke Performance) RM 144cc engine

 

Ported for XC.

Full house Micro Blu ceramic bearings.

Boysen Rad Valve and engine covers.

Hinson clutch basket and new OEM clutch.

Marura Hydro clutch.

DEP 144cc pipe.

Lectron carb.

TSP programmable CDI with custom maps and mapping switch.

VHT head with custom squish and ceramic coating.

New OEM gears with Isotropic Super Finish

 

2013 RMZ roller.

 

CMT carbon fuel tank.

18" rear wheel with Tu-Bliss kits and Pirelli rubber. 18/110 on the rear.

Braking rotors, OS on the front.

Braided brake lines.

Acerbis brush guards and chain slider kit.

"Tugger" straps.

Carbon protection.

TE carbon/composite flex bars. 3x flex, Windham bend.

Applied triple clamps and billet head stem.

Scott's steering dampener.

HammerHead Billet brake pedal and gear shifter.

Talon Evo wheels.

Billet pegs.

7mm Lowered sub frame and cut down seat.

 

Haven't had the suspension done for XC yet :blush:.  My XC suspension is on my MX bike and the MX suspension is on the XC bike ATM   :rolleyes: .

 

Had the carby apart for the first time before this ride, cleaning it and didn't realize I moved the metering rod so It's running rich in this Vid   :facepalm: . Plus my riding sux ATM :lol: .

 

Anyway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzJu3OwVmPA

 

2nd track wasn't a bad effort, considering my currant fitness. I coughed my guts up for 20 minutes after I finished though.  My mate hip and shouldered a tree, so we went home and quite while we were both still "behind" :lol: .

 

I was attempting to build a better ST bike than the KTM200. I'm close :ride: .

 

Here's a good Video showing how to ride a small bore 2T in XC   :thumbsup: .

ATB, you have the best looking modern RM I've ever seen. I love 125s off road . Normally I am not a fan of black plastic on a dirt bike, but your color scheme has me wondering how I could not like black plastic on a dirt bike. You did an unbelievable job.

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