Does anyone's FCR carburetor squeak?

I installed my carburetor, and upon initial startup, and consecutive revs, the carburetor squeaks. It's weird, almost like a scraping sound. My buddy has a FCR and yoshi exhaust and doesn't have this problem, so I'm kind of confused why that would be.

You may be hearing the whistle sound. Apparently it's air rushing around in there. Mine has always whistled, more so when under load.

On mine it sounds like a chirp, it's the vacuum release plate doing it's thing.

My drz with a fcrMX did it. The few i rode with with the slant FCR did not. I'm not sure why though

On mine it sounds like a chirp, it's the vacuum release plate doing it's thing.

 

 

You may be hearing the whistle sound. Apparently it's air rushing around in there. Mine has always whistled, more so when under load.

 

 

Okay, was just worried it was a bad thing. That's weird that mine does that and his doesn't, any reason that his doesn't do that? My bike also backfires like an Italian mobster with a  tommy gun when I engine brake, anyone else have this? MY buddies bike is essentially silent.

 

 

Lastly, I rode his bike, and granted he has a slightly bigger sprocket in the rear, but his bike just feels SOOO much more responsive and peppy than mine. Throttle alone I can easily pop his up in first, second is really easy, and I feel like I can even do it in third. From a stop my bike just doesn't want to go right away, seems like it takes a bit, then gets going. Granted mine is on the verge of 15,000 and his has 10,000, so do you think there is some maintenance (I read places valves at 15,000 is good), that I should do? Or should I just go get it professionally tuned?

 

I have 3x3, full fmf exhaust, fcr39mm, hotcams, sealevel.

Edited by RobertLindert

A little popping on decel is normal if you have an aftermarket pipe, but it sounds like your jetting may be off. 

 

If you post up jet sizes, needle type and clip setting, pipe, and elevation you'll most likely get some guidance on the jetting and get it squared away.

 

Or take it to a shop to dyno tune it if that's an option for you.

 

Wouldn't hurt to check the valve clearances if you haven't done it recently, it's pretty easy to do. 

Okay, was just worried it was a bad thing. That's weird that mine does that and his doesn't, any reason that his doesn't do that? My bike also backfires like an Italian mobster with a  tommy gun when I engine brake, anyone else have this? MY buddies bike is essentially silent.

 

 

Lastly, I rode his bike, and granted he has a slightly bigger sprocket in the rear, but his bike just feels SOOO much more responsive and peppy than mine. Throttle alone I can easily pop his up in first, second is really easy, and I feel like I can even do it in third. From a stop my bike just doesn't want to go right away, seems like it takes a bit, then gets going. Granted mine is on the verge of 15,000 and his has 10,000, so do you think there is some maintenance (I read places valves at 15,000 is good), that I should do? Or should I just go get it professionally tuned?

 

I have 3x3, full fmf exhaust, fcr39mm, hotcams, sealevel.

 

It's an unfair comparison if your buddy has shorter gearing....

Engine wear will also effect performance..

 

You need to tune your Pilot Circuit . Some popping on decel is normal..

 

 

Jetting should be --->

160 Main jet

OCEMN Needle clip 3

45 pilot jet

2 turns fuel screw will be close

Make sure your not rubbing anywhere around the carb. A whistle is normal, but a rub or scraping is not.

It's an unfair comparison if your buddy has shorter gearing....

Engine wear will also effect performance..

 

You need to tune your Pilot Circuit . Some popping on decel is normal..

 

 

Jetting should be --->

160 Main jet

OCEMN Needle clip 3

45 pilot jet

2 turns fuel screw will be close

Just did the pilot jet test, I'm barely making it a full turn before she jumps back to a heavy purr. So I think I need a smaller pilot jet then.

Just did the pilot jet test, I'm barely making it a full turn before she jumps back to a heavy purr. So I think I need a smaller pilot jet then.

Did the popping stop when you adjusted the fuel screw? The 60, 45, emn 3rd clip jetting should be a little rich if you have an FMF system. That spec is more for the higher flowing mrd z pro (SSW) pipe or the old school titanium yosh. An air leak in the exhaust, either at the header or mid will cause popping as well. Good luck tracking it down.

Did the popping stop when you adjusted the fuel screw? The 60, 45, emn 3rd clip jetting should be a little rich if you have an FMF system. That spec is more for the higher flowing mrd z pro (SSW) pipe or the old school titanium yosh. An air leak in the exhaust, either at the header or mid will cause popping as well. Good luck tracking it down.

If I let the bike idle a little on the higher side, the popping does stop. But I feel like a bike shouldn't idle at a steady purr, I fell like you should be able to hear each thump da da da da da da da da.

 

And yes I just used the stock recommended settings and what the FCR came with, but replaced the EMN needle with the EMR (or vise versa whatever it tells you to swap in).

The EMR is too lean. Try an EMP.

On mine it sounds like a chirp, it's the vacuum release plate doing it's thing.

 

A chirp/whistle, sort of like the sound of crickets? Mine sounds like that.

The EMR is too lean. Try an EMP.

an EMP is a leaner needle than a EMR. EMP is actually a fatter in diameter needle.

I have been playing with different needles and have got the system quite down

EMM would be a richer needle in the closed to 1/4 throttle range

an EMP is a leaner needle than a EMR. EMP is actually a fatter in diameter needle.

I have been playing with different needles and have got the system quite down

EMM would be a richer needle in the closed to 1/4 throttle range

 

um....well it actually goes like this....from rich to lean --->OCEMM--> OCEMN --> OCEMP--> OCEMR...the difference is at small throttle openings

 

Robert........set the carb up as I suggested in post #7....EMR is way too lean mate for stock displacement at sub 3,000 ft

Edited by Craigo

Jetting should be --->

160 Main jet

OCEMN Needle clip 3

45 pilot jet

2 turns fuel screw will be close

Robert........set the carb up as I suggested in post #7....EMR is way too lean mate for stock displacement at sub 3,000 ft

 

 

Right, but what is an OCEEMN needle and where do I get that? Also, are those jetting options different than what it comes stock? Otherwise I'd have to get a jet kit.

Right, but what is an OCEEMN needle and where do I get that? Also, are those jetting options different than what it comes stock? Otherwise I'd have to get a jet kit.

 

Just have a look at the needle mate.....It will have the code stamped on the sucker......TT conversion kit will have the EMN needle in there....

You should always confirm everything with jets sizes and needle set up before installing carb

Edited by Craigo

Just have a look at the needle mate.....It will have the code stamped on the sucker......TT conversion kit will have the EMN needle in there....

You should always confirm everything with jets sizes and needle set up before installing carb

I bought mine on TT, so I probably have the EMN needle in there already. That's what I'm saying.

I bought mine on TT, so I probably have the EMN needle in there already. That's what I'm saying.

 

Well yes you should have........1 thing I have learnt ...you never assume anything when it comes to jetting...That's what I am saying..... ;)

Edited by Craigo

Well yes you should have........I thing I have learnt ...you never assume anything when it comes to jetting...That's what I am saying..... ;)

Coz when you assume something, it can make an a$$ of U and me.

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