2015 350 sxf mods

[OR Racer46]

A few more 

[OR Racer46]

I have the  WP  Factory   Service Suspension Also

[mxboy2661]

@or racer46, how is the factorty service suspension? I would think they would have an amazing set up for the 4cs, when I called their and explained what I wanted out of my forks they tried to persuade me to the conevalve a kit though lol

[darkclown]

I just got a 2015 350 XCF for woods riding (kind of kicking myself for not waiting but whatever).

1. Re-grease all bushings (linkage, swing arm, head, axels/spacers).  Actually the grease levels aren't bad this year.  I guess the KTM grease Nazi was feeling generous.
2. Re-torque all the fittings.
3. Add FMF 4.1 + mega bomb
4. Set TPS Mine was already set at .698 I went with .651 for now and see if I want to go to .701 because of the mega bomb (stock pipe would be .601)
5. Bark Busters
6. GPR stabilizer.
7. Rekluse Core 3.0
8. Grind the inner tongs down on the rear break lever so it doesn't gouge out the clutch cover when I hit a rock (or drop it off my stand like of done with other bikes).
9. Change the stock grips out for ones that don't give you huge blisters in 20 minutes of riding. I like the Tag/One industries fat grips that look almost spiky.  They wear quicker but I love the fatter grip and don't find myself having to razor blade off my calluses anymore.
10. Anti-seize fittings that need it.  This is a must for the rear axel block adjuster bolts!!!!  If you don't do this you will kick yourself later.
11. Dielectric grease electrical fittings.
12. Shorai lithium battery

I'll look at the suspension after I have broken it in enough.  I might want to go with .44s instead of the .46s that are in there now and do the revalve that others have talked about.  I also have a user setting tool but not sure if I want to muck with too much just yet.  Would love to find some maps that work well for other people but seem hard to find.  I guess I'll need to go hit the dyno.

Edited May 19, 2015 by darkclown

[Whittle450]

I just got a 2015 350 XCF for woods riding (kind of kicking myself for not waiting but whatever).

1. Re-grease all bushings (linkage, swing arm, head, axels/spacers).  Actually the grease levels aren't bad this year.  I guess the KTM grease Nazi was feeling generous.
2. Re-torque all the fittings.
3. Add FMF 4.1 + mega bomb
4. Set TPS Mine was already set at .698 I went with .651 for now and see if I want to go to .701 because of the mega bomb (stock pipe would be .601)
5. Bark Busters
6. GPR stabilizer.
7. Rekluse Core 3.0
8. Grind the inner tongs down on the rear break lever so it doesn't gouge out the clutch cover when I hit a rock (or drop it off my stand like of done with other bikes).
9. Change the stock grips out for ones that don't give you huge blisters in 20 minutes of riding. I like the Tag/One industries fat grips that look almost spiky.  They wear quicker but I love the fatter grip and don't find myself having to razor blade off my calluses anymore.
10. Anti-seize fittings that need it.  This is a must for the rear axel block adjuster bolts!!!!  If you don't do this you will kick yourself later.
11. Dielectric grease electrical fittings.
12. Shorai lithium battery

I'll look at the suspension after I have broken it in enough.  I might want to go with .44s instead of the .46s that are in there now and do the revalve that others have talked about.  I also have a user setting tool but not sure if I want to muck with too much just yet.  Would love to find some maps that work well for other people but seem hard to find.  I guess I'll need to go hit the dyno.

what is all this TPS stuff im hearing about? this is my first FI bike. im hearing about people changing the numbers but what does it actually do and mean?

[squish72]

The number is the voltage reading coming from the tps. You can basicaly tune the amount of fuel air ratio across the whole rpm range with it.

[darkclown]

what is all this TPS stuff im hearing about? this is my first FI bike. im hearing about people changing the numbers but what does it actually do and mean?

 

TPS – Throttle Positioning Sensor.  On the throttle body there is a potentiometer that that reads how far open the butterfly is.  +5v is sent into the TPS and the ECU reads the position by the amount of volts out.  The spec is .601 volts with the throttle closed.  You can adjust it by loosening a set screw and turning the TPS body (with the throttle closed).  From my understanding the more you increase the output voltage the more fuel is added and the timing curve is advanced.

 

Seems like the XCF-Ws have been coming set at ~.580 to dull the motor.  I adjusted my friends W to .601 and he felt a noticeable improvement on his W.  I checked my XCF and it was set at .689 from the factory.  If you have an XCF or SXF you can use the User Setting Tool to check the value and for that matter adjust fuel at whatever RPM you want.  Ideally I think you would set it at .601 and then adjust the fuel curve for the mods you do.  The XCF-W comes with a locked ECU so you either need a shop to unlock it with an X1 or you have to use a 5V power supply and meter to test the TPS for the output voltage.

 

I’ve added a FMF 4.1 so I know I should add a bit of fuel to the bike.  Really the only way to know exactly how much is to put it on a dyno with an O2 sensor.  I only have 1 hour on the bike so I still need to finish break in before I do too much tuning. 

 

I think there are a number of YouTube videos out there so do a search and see.