I had mentioned this a few weeks back in another thread as I am tired of repacking all my pipes about every year or so. I bought a Stainless packing kit last year right after I re-packed one of my bikes with a ceramic mat and could tell it was time to do it again. This time I took some pics. So here is the process I used. The kit came with a screen that looked pretty much like what you see in a screen door but this screen material it is made with Stainless Steel. It also has a Stainless Steel Wool Mat about two foot by five feet and maybe a half inch thick. Also came with some wire to help hold it in place at assembly. You cut the matt and screen with real sharp scissors or tin snips to the size needed. I found the length should be about an inch to an inch and half LONGER than the can as it compresses upon re-assembly so a little bit more length gets the can more full. The last time I packed this pipe I had used this ceramic packing as it stands temperatures up 3200 degrees so I figured it would outlast fiberglass. WRONG! It does not stand up to the pulses of the engine and lasted just about the same time as fiberglass. Probably got 2500-3000 miles out of it. About a year or so of use. I did a bunch of research on the stainless and found like the ceramic they recommend you wrap the perforated pipe center piece with the screen FIRST to help protect the wool or matt from extreme heat and engine pulses. They also say you can use a combination of stainless mat as well as fiberglass or ceramic but I decided to go with nothing but stainless. I found if you stick a small wire into each end of that perforated pipe and then through one of the holes in the screen about an inch in from the ends and about an inch in from the edge, then pull it in towards the center and go back through one more hole in the screen and pipe. This will allow you to tighten up that screen real nicely around the perforated pipe. Make a mental note or even draw an arrow on one end so you know in which direction you are tightening everything up as you want the matt to be tightened up in the same direction as the screen for easier assembly. By only going through two holes with each piece of wire you can still pull that wire out once you have the screen where you want it, all tightened up, and then about 2-3 wraps of wire around it to hold it in place. I wrapped the perforated core three times with screen. Next I cut and wrapped it three times with the stainless steel wool mat and put three wraps of wire (one near each end and one in the middle) around that to hold it in place. On both the screen wire and wool/matt wire I folded over the twisted ends of the holding wire so they would not snag anything when I twist and push it all together. It was MUCH easier to push it together than any fiberglass or ceramic matt I had ever installed. It worked so well I did another bike that was getting real loud the next day! The second pipe even had four pop rivets that I thought would catch the matt and snag or cause me to have problems pushing everything back into the can, but it went together real nice! Second pipe was also oval in shape and those usually a re a bear to do with standard packing, no problems at all using the stainless. I forgot to weight it prior to repacking but after it was all done the whole can only weighed 3.5 pounds. Only problem is that it is now so quiet I am hearing all sorts of engine noises! HA!