Just use engine oil.
Read the torque procedure for the head and be sure you understand it.
And do i have to realign rings or anything before i put cylinder back on? I never touched the piston rings
Yeah i think i understand procedure.
Apply molybdenum disulfide grease tp head bolts.
Tighten bolts crisscross to certain spec.
Back off in same pattern. Reapply grease to bolts.
Retighten back to 2nd diff torque spec.
Once tight. Mark bolts with marker. Tighten each one in pattern to 90 degrees.
Then finish by tightening each one a further 90 so they finish at 180 degrees from inital 2nd torque spec.
You should use new rings, but re-indexing them is a good idea.
I spun the top ring and 2nd rings around. But it was damn impossible to get the oil rings to twist seperately.
It has new rings beforeni bought it. Only two rides. According to guy i bought from.
So i put cams in. Lined em up to what i saw before disassembly. Its a lil off mark on flywheel...but its same as it was. Attaching 3 pics....of marks when i was done. It started an idled fine.
Anything i should be doing to make sure head gasket seals and binds or whatever?
Or anything of a breakin of sorts? I didnt do piston rings or cylinder. Just head work.
Oh and this is how far my chain tensioner went in when woundnout completely....to show slack.
Looks ok to me.
It seemed to have a bit more power without a blown head gasket, and new valve seals, and valves reseated, etc. Once in a while, probably due to me overthinking/overanalyzing, i almost heard like a whirling/whining sound... but still had all kinds of ridiculous power. Too much actually lol.
Btw. hoping maybe someone knows, or grayracer. I went for a ride. pulled over, sat for about 5mins and went to check the oil stick in the frame, and nothing was touching the stick. I'm not exactly sure how long it is, before you can check the oil off the stick in the frame. Is it only in the first 2mins? how's it work? service manual doesn't really say that i can find.
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