2015 300RR Spring Rate Chart

[fljar]

Ok, the BYOB for 2015 is no longer on the Beta site so I can't see spring rate-to-weight table for 2015 anymore. I have the older spring rate chart (2013 I think), but I know they changed it for 2015. Anyone have it??? Please...

[Retromlc]

How much do you weigh fully kitted, I'm 90kg and run a 5.7 reader spring

[GP]

IMO spring rate chart was a joke like the torque table.  Much too soft.  What do you weigh?  Retromic is about right on for his weight.  I'm around 180 and run a 5.6.  170s a 5.4.

Edited July 20, 2015 by GP

[fljar]

Retromlc and GP - are the weights you mentioned fully-geared? What about fork springs? Stock on my '15 300RR are .42 fork springs and 5.2 rear. I ride mostly mountains (Colorado/Utah), limited enduro racing. I weigh in at 185 butt nekid...

 

Thanks for the advice.

[Retromlc]

Me fully kitted, I have kyb front forks 4.4 and I think 150 mm air gap, 5 wt oil

[GP]

I'm 180 in shorts.  About 205 in gear.  I also have a KYB SSS fork with .45k springs and 2.0 K ICS springs.  Bike is firm and balanced.  You want a 5.6 spring for sure.  Probably .46 up front too with the Sachs. I have my brother's set apart to valve and spring but have not ridden them so no real experience. 

[ballisticexchris]

My suggestion is to use the Race Tech spring rate search tool. It's pretty damn accurate. It does error on the side of stiffer. 2013 chart should be pretty close. I would say a .46-48 front and a 5.0-5.2 rear is about right for your weight and bike.

 

http://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx

[hammer41]

My suggestion is to use the Race Tech spring rate search tool. It's pretty damn accurate. It does error on the side of stiffer. 2013 chart should be pretty close. I would say a .46-48 front and a 5.0-5.2 rear is about right for your weight and bike.

http://racetech.com/ChooseVehicle.aspx

At 185 .48 and 5.2 would have you wrapped around a tree in the first turn. Listen to Glenn!

I loaded myself it that race tech calc, not even close. It called for a 5.0 on the rear. That's just laughable.

[ballisticexchris]

At 185 .48 and 5.2 would have you wrapped around a tree in the first turn. Listen to Glenn!

I loaded myself it that race tech calc, not even close. It called for a 5.0 on the rear. That's just laughable.

 

We are talking about the 300RR? I've ridden a well setup 2013 300RR with Sachs forks and Fox Podium shock. I'm pretty sure it has 5.2 and .48 springs. I weigh in at 190 without gear. Not trying to give misinformation here. Just pointing out what works. Race Tech charts have served me and many other guys well over the years. If you like stiff, that's cool too. 

[GP]

Well ride what you like but the chart will kill me. .48 front and a 5.2 rear is ridiculous on a Beta 300. In the east we need the bikes to stick the front and turn. Not going to happen by the Racetech chart. A 5.6 will allow proper sag of <100mm with minimal preload, which gives a better ride in the trash.

[hawaiidirtrider]

Ahhh.. its really different for different people..and different riding..and different terrain.

[hawaiidirtrider]

My 15 300 rr comes stock stiffer than earlier years. I rode my buddies 250 rr hes 270-ish. He had springs for his weight...stillwell setup.. and it feels great to me. I'm 225 lbs. So I got thr 5.0 springs up front and 6.0 behind to make things more confusing...but it works awesome..I ride mostly technical and some fast but its plush and stable...I havent hardly even fooled with suspension settings too..but the bike feels great slow and fast

[ballisticexchris]

Well ride what you like but the chart will kill me. .48 front and a 5.2 rear is ridiculous on a Beta 300. In the east we need the bikes to stick the front and turn. Not going to happen by the Racetech chart. A 5.6 will allow proper sag of <100mm with minimal preload, which gives a better ride in the trash.

I might be confusing spring rates. I'll be double checking stuff. One thing for sure is my 498 has .50 front and 5.6 rear with minimal preload at 25mm/100mm sag. Of course that's not a 300......

 

I opened up a bag of worms suggesting spring rates! Very subjective according to valving and rider style. Race Tech is out here in the West and I'm running Race Tech valving specs on my Beta. 

[ballisticexchris]

Here you go guys. Draw your own conclusions. I will find out exactly what springs are on Get Dirty's 300RR next time I'm up there. That "shop bike" gets passed around like a whore and raced hard. Everyone comes off it with a big smile. Sorry for the confusion. I think I have the rates on the 300 all messed up. 

 

http://library.constantcontact.com/download/get/file/1103837443653-405/Suspension+spring+chart.pdf

 

The thing that's most confusing is Glens use of such stiff spring rates on a 2T. Main thing is it works for him just like mine works for me.

[hawaiidirtrider]

? 

Edited July 21, 2015 by hawaiidirtrider

[hammer41]

[quote

The thing that's most confusing is Glens use of such stiff spring rates on a 2T. Main thing is it works for him just like mine works for me.

It's not confusing at all. You want as little pre load on the rear spring as you can get and still get the correct numbers. I weigh the same as Glenn and use the same springs. It just a ruler and some easy math. Who gives a shit what Dirty Bikes or anyone else uses the numbers don't lie.

[ballisticexchris]

It's not confusing at all. You want as little pre load on the rear spring as you can get and still get the correct numbers. I weigh the same as Glenn and use the same springs. It just a ruler and some easy math. Who gives a shit what Dirty Bikes or anyone else uses the numbers don't lie.

 

Are we in a pissy mood? I'm not trying to stir anything up here. Just adding there is more than one way to get suspension dialed in to your liking. Suspension settings are very subjective from rider to rider and skill level. 

 

To really add "fuel to the fire", I have a riding acquaintance who is a "A" rider/racer. Over the years I've seen him on a few new KTM's. He takes them off the showroom floor and wins races. Never touches the suspension. No clicker, springs, or setting sag. it's sickening to see how fast he is. Bike is all over the place. Flat spots on rims, etc. but he rides fast and wins races. He even pulls these antiquated twin shock Husky's out out of his garage and enters desert races. Goes pretty damn fast on those too!

 

I'm not all that good of a rider and need my suspension set just right to help me along.

[drzrobbcanuck]

I run .48 front and 5.4 rear: 200lbs naked with good sag at little preload. Ride single track and trails. It's balanced and the front sticks, but the rear feels a little soft: have a 5.8 rear to try but 5.6 would be about perfect for me.

[hammer41]

I run .48 front and 5.4 rear: 200lbs naked with good sag at little preload. Ride single track and trails. It's balanced and the front sticks, but the rear feels a little soft: have a 5.8 rear to try but 5.6 would be about perfect for me.

I would be willing to bet the 5.8 will make your bike ride and steer better than you ever thought it could. If you have more than 7 mm preload on a spring it will tend to make the bike feel harsh in the small chop and roots. With a 5.6 at 183lbs in shorts 5mm preload I get 97mm of sag on my 300.

[GP]

If your riding technical rocky trail where you can't turn aggressively and slow speed plush is the goal then you can get away with softer springs. If overall handling and front end confidence is important to you then spring up as said. With OC forks you generally run a rate up over CC forks, due to lack of ICS influence. Mismatch springs soft rear/stiff fork and your in for trouble on this bike.