Synthetic Oil ?????

I realize this is more than likely a "No Brainer", but I gotta ask. Are any of you guys running synthetic oil in your 450? I am a believer in synthetic oil and run it in pretty much everything. But I wanted to see what brand you guys are using, and if you've had any issues with clutch slippage.

I switched my 12R over to synthetic at around 1000 miles. Nary a problem with clutch slippage. I use BelRay EXS and it has worked great, but geesh @ $8.50 - $9.50 a liter it should. I don't really want to use that stuff in the 450 because it is too expensive. I only went with the stuff because a guy at Muzzy's recommended it to me. But everyone has their prefference, and that happened to be his. I run Mobil 1 in the autos, and a lot of guys swear by it in their bikes.

Also how many hours are you supposed to put on the break-in oil? I don't want it in there too long.

over abused topic w/ literally tens of thousands of responses.

Very many guys use Mobil 1 Redcap, Rotella Synthetic, Amsoil, etc.

Many use conventional oil.

Pick and choose.

Agreed,...I've seen this topic beat to death on some other forums. But I still thought I'd see what some of you guys run in your bikes. Plus, I wanted to see how long the guys ran conventional oil before they made the switch. I still don't even know how long to run the break-in oil. When is the first service supposed to be done, and what other than the obvious oil change, chain maintenance, and air filter is required??? I wanna keep the little machine running just like it is right now. :)


I put around 150 woods miles on my 04 WR450 before I changed to Amsoil syn. It is not cheap but you only have to purchase a couple of quarts. It is specifically made for engines with wet clutches, so no low friction additives are added.

I use Mobil One (red cap) in my Yamaha Roadstar and have got excellent results from it for over 50,000 miles. But Mobil is changing their oils all the time and I bet they won't tell us when they start adding friction reducers to the red cap. We'll just find out the hard way. Mobil does make specific oil for wet clutches though, but it's expensive also.

Hey there's a lot of great oils out there now, just make sure it is wet clutch compatible, and change it often.

DD :)

Thanks DD, I appreciate the info. I'll be looking at some oil here pretty soon.

So the oil capacity is 2qts???

I prefer synthetic oils for the following reasons:

Higher viscosity index, i.e. they will flow and lubricate better at lower temperatures as well as provide better oxidation resistance at higher temps. Bearing manufacturers specify a viscosity requirement for their bearings based on speed, load and temperature. Once again, a synthetic oils higher VI is going to provide that viscosity over a wider temp range.

Synthetics typically hold twice as much dissolved water as mineral based oils. Dissolved water doesn't cause the problem, free and emulsified water does, it can promote corrosion and a host of other problems like hydrogen embrittlement in certain steels.

At the speeds, loads and temperatures we run our bikes at I think using a quality brand synthetic oil is cheap insurance.

Oil is always cheaper than steel!

I like to use synthetic as well. I'm sure that conventional oil will perform more than adequately but these bikes can get really hot and to me the extra margin that synthetic provides under those conditions is worth the extra cost. I mean we're only talking about a quart and a half here. I get Amsoil motorcycle specific at dealer cost through their preferred customer program. It's really not much more than Mobil 1 Red Cap (like less than $1/qt). My biggest concern is the same as yours. Mobil is under no obligation to maintain a "friction reducer free" formula as they don't advertise it as such. I'm not sure you would even know if they changed it because they are always using marketing hype to describe their product (i.e. -"DriveClean","SuperSyn", etc.). Real facts are hard to come by. They are real proud of their motorcycle specific Mobil 1 which is marketed as containing no additives. I have no doubt that Mobil 1 red cap works well in it's present formulation. I'm not bashing Mobil here at all and think it's an excellent product. In fact I use Mobil 1 in all of my cars/trucks/motorhome. Just not in my bikes. If the price differential were bigger I might consider it. Frankly Mobil 1 has been getting more expensive around here. Sorry if this opened a can of old worms. Just my .02.

I changed my 04 WR450 oil after 10 miles, to Shell Rotella non-synthetic. I will change it 3 more times until she hits approx. 250 miles, then switch to Mobil 1 redcap or Shell Rotella T synthetic. The Shell will be the best deal if I can get it through Walmart at ~13.xx per gallon. Mobil 1 has also risen in price around here in the last 6 months, from an average of about $4.70 to about $5.50, in my observation.

I use Redline in my hotrod and Mobil 1 redcap in my cruiser car. Redline water wetter and other lubes throughout.

Excellent results.


I've done 4 oil changes with a new filter and yamalube-4r in the first 400mi and just bought 5qts of mobil 1 redcap for my next oil changes. I'll start changing the oil every 150~200mi and the filter on every other oil change from now on.

I've read up a lot about oil here in TT and the bottom line is, as long as you change it often I don't think is matters what oil you use. Everyone who has changed their oil often has had good results. :)

With only 1100cc you need to change your oil every 200 miles or six rides.

Do you guys pull out the "oil strainer" everytime you do an oil change?

What oil are most of you running 10w40?

What's the part number for the oil filter?

I hate asking all these questions but I want to order some oil and filters today and I'm not sure what I need. I will probably run Yamalube until I get some hours on the bike.

If your talking about the strainer at the bottom of the frame I only pull it on the first oil change. After that I just do the oil filter. On my WR400 I pulled the strainer for the first 4 or 5 changes but only found any debris in it at the first change. Probably left over machining debris. On my 426 and 450 I didn't find any debris on the first change.

I haven't checked my strainer. I tried to on the first oil change, but I almost broke the strainer while trying to get the hose off so I just left it. Do you guys have a good way of getting the hose off?

good info pbdblue.

I asked that because the strainer didn't look very "user friendly" in the manual. And according to what what 5spoke said I'd say that's a correct assumption. :D

I'm also still trying to find a good source for OEM Yamaha Parts. One place requires that you order a minimum of $100 worth of parts. :) That's crap I tell ya. All I really need is a few filters and some O-rings!!!!

Yeah the strainer is a real pain to pull out. As far as parts go I've had pretty good luck here though I think they charge shipping on orders under $100:

Power Sports Pro

Have you considered a Scotts Stainless Steel filter? Kind of expensive to buy but it's cleanable and you never have to replace it. I just got one for my 450. Of course the stock 426 filter is cleanable too but not nearly as durable.

Thanks, I'll check out power sports pro.

Honestly I didn't know about the Scotts SS filter. I may have to check that out. I just got my WR450 Friday and my mind has not been idle since. First it was the freebie mods. Now that I've done that, and was VERY impressed I might add, I am trying to get some essential stuff for maintenance. I've been looking at stands, and a bunch more goodies. But right now all I need is the essential stuff.

I tend to go overboard on bikes, and I really don't want to do that to the WR. I would like to get the good out of it in its' current state before I start pulling off stuff and replacing it with "Top Shelf" components. Note that I said "I would like to........". We'll see how it goes. :)

Any thoughts on a good lift stand that doesn't impede oil changes etc. ?

I just switched to Shell Rotella T full syn. For $13 smacks a gallon, I agree with the cheap insurance idea. Here is some useful info that might help...

I'm also still trying to find a good source for OEM Yamaha Parts. One place requires that you order a minimum of $100 worth of parts. :D That's crap I tell ya. All I really need is a few filters and some O-rings!!!!

Zanotti Motors....cheapest dealer on the internet..... Zanotti Motors

20% or more off list, most dealers charge list+20%!! :) I think they have a $25 minimum, no big deal.....

With only 1100cc you need to change your oil every 200 miles or six rides.

I don't know why people are changing the oil so often, especially with synthetic. When I was riding my '85 XR600, I changed it every 300-400 miles and the main reason for changing it that often was because dirty oil alledgedly doesn't cool as well as clean oil and the air-cooled XRs relied on the oil to help dissipate heat....not a big concern on a {b]water[/b]-cooled engine. Synthetic oil should be good for at least 1000 miles. I just switched to Castrol ACT-EVO 10w40, I'm going to run at least 500 mile intervals with it... prob'ly longer :)

It's not how good the oil is, it's how good your filter is. The clutch sharing oil with a piston/valves etc. makes me nervous. :)

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