Bike stalling, need pointers!

Hey guys, got my 03 ktm 450 out of the shed and hasn't been started in a year or so.


Took the carby out gave it a good clean, done all the oils and changed out old fuel into fresh unleaded 95.


When the fuel petcock is on "on" position the bike will not idle, I fiddle with the idle screw, it revs WAY to high and if I just move it slightly it wont idle and stall.


But if its in the "reserve" position it runs beautiful, could this be a blocked fuel tank or something else? Can't figure it out for the life of me.


Also, how do I adjust the clutch, when my clutch is all the way in and in gear it creeps foward JUST slightly, if I put a foot on the ground it won't move.


Thanks in advance all!

Take the fuel line off of the carb and then the gas on, and then on reserve. If there a difference in fuel flow? Some bikes have in tank screens on the petcock, it's possible yours is clogged. This test will tell you.

Does the bike still creep when it's warmed up? Line may need to be bled.

Yeah mate bike creeps a tad when warm, how would I go about bleeding the line? I didn't do the clutch fluid, ill drain and refill fresh.


I havn't checked the fuel flow ill check that when I work on it next, id it hard to clean the screens?

as said above, check the fuel flow and bleed the clutch


take cap off reservoir (2 screws) buy a bottle of the correct fluid which i think is mineral on that?


crack the bleed nipple and just let it gravity bleed BUT constantly top it up so the level doesnt drop to low


do it for around 5 minutes, making sure the fluid is bleeding from the nipple


then tighten the bleed screw and install cap

look into the proper method to bleed this system, its from the bottom up with a syringe....its in the FAQ in the KTM 2st section

ive tried all methods and gravity is the best for front brake and clutch, the air will still rise to the res and fluid will drip from the bottom


rear brake needs a syringe however

I never did rear brakes with syringe, i opened tap and pumped the brake to get all the air out and kept topping up until i had all air out..


This weekend im gonna hit up the clutch and drain my tank and find a way to clean it


Thanks for all the info fellas!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By pumpernickelBrad
      Hi Folks!

      Sorry if there are a bunch of threads already but I used the site's search function and didn't find anything so far...

      I just found a decent deal on a '14 350 EXC-F with 11k km (unknown hours). Has a few goodies including skid plate, hand guards and it's for sale for about $2k CAD less than a '16 with 6k km on it.
      The bike is in showroom condition (appearance) with no indication it has been offroad at all.

      What would be the gotchas that would make this deal realistic? I'm coming from a WR250R where the engine lasts forever, is 11k street kms high for these bikes? 
      Are there any big defects in the '14s that I haven't dug up yet?
      With no service records what things should be done, checked, etc?
    • By Brannnt
      I purchased an '06 525 EXC some time ago, and recently pulled the motor out of the frame to address some other issues. When I removed the clutch slave cylinder, I noticed an issue the previous owner neglected to tell me about during the purchase.
      It appears that at some point, the chain broke and damaged the engine case near the clutch slave cylinder (see pics, please). I have noticed that the clutch does not fully disengage (bike lurches a bit going into gear, neutral is hard to find... its worse when engine is cold) ... I did not notice any leaks around this area (mineral oil or engine oil) before or during disassembly. 
      The previous owner (or someone) repaired it with some sort of epoxy.
      Without doing my due diligence (checking clutch fluid level, bleeding) I hesitate to state that this is the cause of my clutch disengagement issue ... but pardon my ignorance here and help me out: How bad is this?  Am I looking at replacing my engine case here or is the previous owner's jerry rig good enough?

    • By Black Sox
      Just bought a new 2017 350 excf ,will be doing 98% off road ,ordered skid plate bark busters ,
      my ? Is what's the best easiest way to eliminate rear fender light assembly.I still would like to have a break light.
      xcf fender will fit so dealer says,under $50.00 👍But xcf brake light $125.00 .👎What's the best economical way of doing this?
    • By JNV
      Hi friends from Spain.
      Mi new KTM

    • By Brawg
      SO, for information sake and to power the search engines with some key words that i couldn't seem to trigger during my research...I'm posting my desmog process on my new 500exc. Being a new bike...i wanted to make sure that all of my "doings" were going to keep the short excuse for a warranty in tact. I have part numbers for the plugs, washers etc as well as what all came off of the bike. I know it's a simple process for some, not so for others and would like to give credit to the writeup for some great info.
      Long story short...i plugged the hole left from the smog pump thingy on the right side of the cylinder, the Secondary Air System (SAS), the overflow canister, and all the hoses/wires that go with. The electrical plug that was involved I simply taped up with grease in it and strapped it to the inside of the frame rail.
      After i took all of it off, it would not idle....i turned up the idle adjuster (to the left) or counter clockwise in order to increase the idle speed.
      Result!!!!!! NO popping on decal, no stalling after hard accelerating, etc. Sometimes after much creeping and low rpm riding it will load up and flame out. I plan to try a different map after i install my exhaust. I think a new map will be able to add some rev to the top end. Right now it seems kind've flat once you pull through the sweet bottom and mid ranges. The bottom end power of this bike coupled with the silky smooth clutch action makes for the easiest and best suited off road bike i've ever been on. It does what i need it to do!