430 RS Jetting

I have the JD jet kit with the recommended jets and needle for 3000 to 6000 feet. Has anyone tried changing the leak jet and what direction did you go ? I'm starting to get traces of soot from being a little rich at the end of the muffler. Not sure yet if I'm going to drop the needle a notch or 2 or drop a size in the main jet. It's been a long time since I have played with jetting and that was on 2t's. Even at sea level it feels a bit lazy and it should be running leaner as opposed to elevation it's jetted for. Need some guidance here , Thanks.

A leak jet is there for throttle response. If it is off to a point of showing soot you will have no throttle response and most likely stall. I would first check your float level and adjust to 9-10mm from gasket/bowl surface. I would drop the needle before the main but after setting your fuel screw,,,, correctly after motor is at running temperature.

Edited by weantright

I have the JD jet kit with the recommended jets and needle for 3000 to 6000 feet. Has anyone tried changing the leak jet and what direction did you go ? I'm starting to get traces of soot from being a little rich at the end of the muffler. Not sure yet if I'm going to drop the needle a notch or 2 or drop a size in the main jet. It's been a long time since I have played with jetting and that was on 2t's. Even at sea level it feels a bit lazy and it should be running leaner as opposed to elevation it's jetted for. Need some guidance here , Thanks.

Ok, All I can speak about is his jetting I installed from him 6 months ago for my 450RS.

 

First he is normally quite clear on jetting for elevation in his instructions, I dropped his lower altitude Red needle (even though I live at 3.5k elevation) one notch from the stock needle location, to allow it to be a little leaner off idle.

 

As he (JD) leaned down the idle circuit as I need the choke now to start it now, from Beta no it did not like the choke, but it also did not like running cold either, the way Beta set it up.  

 

I have no soot at the pipe, and if anything I'd say it runs a little leaner that the OEM jetting. 

The JD jetting for me, calmed the snappy punch the bike had down low from the Factory, which at first I thought was slower, but in essence it made the bike more tractable off-idle as stock there was a stutter then a instant leap of power that I could not tune out of it, mid range is still just as strong, top end is still excellent. The JD jetting for me is better on fuel economy (slightly) it took away a little off-idle snappy stuff which most of us can deal with, but in tight singletrack it much better with the JD jetting....

I will never go back to OEM jetting ever...

 

I will say if you are running stock RS gearing you might try gearing closer to RR, you will get back a little off-idle grunt again

Edited by MarkBevans

That portion of the bowl is no different to any other brand's FCR. If you want to spend the extra money get the Powerbowel. The Powerbowl is meant to help reduce fuel sloshing resulting in less chance to bog/lean on (very) extreme conditions. If you do use the external adjuster the settings are richer (3 jets if memory is right) then what the instruction states per JD's testing on a 2013 Beta 350rr using their jet kit AND float at 9mm. In reality as Chris posted you should never touch it after your best setting. I adjusted mine when the weather went into the 50's on both my 350 and my son's 150r. If I lived where elevations changes are daily then this could be a nice fine tuning tool.

 

I also ran 1 position leaner on the blue needle which put it perfect for my conditions.

Edited by weantright

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try the needle and lower it 1 notch first. Even though I'm jetted for 3 to 6k here at home I'm closer to sea level so I should be a bit lean. BTW when Dave put the JD kit in, there wasn't a reference to the 430. I have to be a little rich cause I can start the bike most of the time cold without the choke. I am currently geared 14/50 mainly for my trip next week heading to Lone Pine and Bridgeport to camp and ride.

More info for you guys to chew on, 10 hours and 250 miles on the clock. The motor is very comfortable at 4k and up. Below that it's not as crisp on the throttle. Thanks for the suggestion to check the float level, thinking back last time I was out by Lucerne the bike flooded out going through a whooped out wash but only did it once so I gave it no mind.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try the needle and lower it 1 notch first. Even though I'm jetted for 3 to 6k here at home I'm closer to sea level so I should be a bit lean. BTW when Dave put the JD kit in, there wasn't a reference to the 430. I have to be a little rich cause I can start the bike most of the time cold without the choke. I am currently geared 14/50 mainly for my trip next week heading to Lone Pine and Bridgeport to camp and ride.

Honestly, being rich enough that it doesn't like the choke when cold is overly rich, especially if you're heading higher in elevations. The elevations will only exaggerate the richness. I'd drop the jets and then a notch on the needle, to start. Sounds way too rich...

I'm jetted per his notes and needle for sea level and ride between 3-6k feet, mine is jetted per JD's notes that came with the kit. I get no pinging, runs crisp and clean. Mine runs killer!!!!!

 

If I was you I'd call or email him, ASAP, he most likely will tell you exactly how to start your jetting with you 430.

 

If properly jetted the 14/50 is excellent DS gearing, that's what I use....

If you're using settings for a Beta 450 and yours is a 430, your jetting is not far off if any. Before you change anything set/check the float. My float was soo far off I completely closed my fuel screw and the bike ran.

If you're using settings for a Beta 450 and yours is a 430, your jetting is not far off if any. Before you change anything set/check the float. My float was soo far off I completely closed my fuel screw and the bike ran.

This IS a biggie! I should have brought it up, I had to lower my float as stock BETA does set 'em high! Which confuses the motor considerably. 

 

I'll be home on Friday, I can send you the jetting I'm using if you want it. Like I said, I'd jet the 430 for sea level, works for me at altitude.... 

OK this is not going like I'd hoped, took the top off the carb and lowered the needle 1 notch. Good , looking at the hoses and trying to figure out how to get the carb turned to check the main jet (what a mess) gave up and thought I'd pull the plug, well the supplied plug wrench does not drop in enough to grab the plug ! I give up , I'm going to wrap it up and just try the lower needle setting. Was looking at later de-smoging to clean this up so I can work on it.

Quick note, the supplied jets in the JD kit are exactly what is listed so now I'm really curious as to my main jet size. The kit says to put the 172 in for 3 to 6k, wonder if stock factory is 172. BTW I tried calling JD but missed them by half an hour , try again tomorrow.

Checked factory specs, 14 450 came with a 175 main jet, the 15 430 came with a 170. So JD lowered the main slightly. I think a 165 would be way too lean. Need to call them .

JD's kits uses larger jets but leaner more precise needles. DO NOT compare to stock needle/jetting, not apples to apples. To rotate carb you will need to remove throttle cables and fuel line. Also don't expect much rotation unless you remove the header.

OK this is not going like I'd hoped, took the top off the carb and lowered the needle 1 notch. Good , looking at the hoses and trying to figure out how to get the carb turned to check the main jet (what a mess) gave up and thought I'd pull the plug, well the supplied plug wrench does not drop in enough to grab the plug ! I give up , I'm going to wrap it up and just try the lower needle setting. Was looking at later de-smoging to clean this up so I can work on it.

 

It's much easier to just pull the carb off. Just just loosen boot and swing subframe out of the way. You don't even have to remove the cables. Speaking of cables, I tried something a while back that worked really well. I removed the push cable. I've had really bad luck on other bikes in the past (CV diaphragm carbs) with throttle sticking. These FCR carbs work really well with just the pull cable. I leave the push cable zip tied alongside for a spare.

 

To prevent dust from entering simply push a foam earplug in the hole.

 

IMG_0968_zpswhwmdu2k.jpg

 

Another tip is to run the cable over the top of wiring harness. I use a KTM +3 cable that's a bit longer than the stock Beta one. Much better fit.

 

IMG_0377_zps3a67aa74.jpg

Same routine pull the seat and tank and swing the rear fender triangle up ? I just rode around in front of the house with the needle dropped 1 and seems better but the temperature is climbing fast. I know it's warmer than normal around here but still. About to call JD for a follow up.

That portion of the bowl is no different to any other brand's FCR. 

 

Actually not correct. The bowl, slide, TPS sensor and few other tidbits are exclusive to the Beta FCR carb. Tokyo Mods mentioned that to me. Also confirmed with Sudco. That's not to say you can't get parts. It's just a proprietary design/configuration exclusive to the Beta carb. I think someone here mentioned the KTM 530 had the same carb as the Beta. I can't confirm that without pictures or seeing one. I tend to believe Tokyo Mods crew as they see these carbs every day.

 

Note the different position of the leak jet cover and drain on the Beta when compared to a standard FCR carb. I have also confirmed this by looking at my riding buddies carbs on Hondas and Yamahas.

 

All the standard FCR carbs are like this

 

http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/expfcrmx.gif

 

Here is ours

 

IMG_0368_zpsf09808a7.jpg

 

Just something to think about...

Yes, if read what I posted you would have seen "that portion". That portion where the leak jet cover is at is the same as other brands. My 350rr used one from a Honda 150r which uses the same as all other bikes. Kits have different p/ns for installation instructions/settings per Boyesen customer service tech. Internally the carbs are different just as Tokyo Mod explained to you!

 

Speaking of cables, I tried something a while back that worked really well. I removed the push cable. I've had really bad luck on other bikes in the past (CV diaphragm carbs) with throttle sticking. These FCR carbs work really well with just the pull cable. I leave the push cable zip tied alongside for a spare.

 

Interesting. Could you snap a picture of this setup? How much throttle free play do you run with?

Edited by pineapplebrah

Interesting. Could you snap a picture of this setup? How much throttle free play do you run with?

I have short bar risers. If I can't find a pic I'll snap one next week for you.

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