Weird problem with 2005 CRF150F

Hello TT! The other day I was riding my bike for close to two hours and it stalls all the sudden like I hit the kill switch. I wasn't able to start it up after that and had to walk it a half mile.. 

 

When I got home I, changed the sparkplug and then took the carb off to clean it. I took all the jets out to clean aswell. 

 

Now here's the problem I have. The bike will ONLY start with the choke all the way on. It will die if I don't give it any throttle but it sounds good. Here's where the weird comes in, when I got switch to half choke or no choke my bike gives itself some throttle and when I go into gear it try's to take off by itself!! It's also really hard to start and it usually starts on the 2nd or 3rd kick everytime even when cold. It's been taking close to 10 kicks, and sometimes that doesn't even work.

 

I took it for a test ride with the choke half way. The speed the throttle gave by itself was probably jogging speed. It would also stall when I pulled the clutch in sometimes, maybe because the throttle was constantly going? 

 

Now what I want to find out and fix is why the heck my bike gives itself throttle when I turn the choke to half or off.

 

Thanks guys!

I can understand replacing the spark plug but the bike ran fine for two hours and you decided to completely disassemble the carb....

Causing yourself even more problems than before....

So, Mr. "make extra work for yourself", How did you set the float level?

And do you have a Genuine Factory Honda Shop manual?

I can understand replacing the spark plug but the bike ran fine for two hours and you decided to completely disassemble the carb....

Causing yourself even more problems than before....

So, Mr. "make extra work for yourself", How did you set the float level?

And do you have a Genuine Factory Honda Shop manual?

 

I do not have a shop manual. I disassembled the carb around two weeks ago as I got a rebuild kit. After that is when the problems started happening I guess. My bike also feels like it has no low end power, like it revs high and wants me to slowly gain speed to go fast. What is the cause of all of this? You seem to might know.

.....it stalls all the sudden like I hit the kill switch.

 

 

just my quick diagnosis...if the bike was running well for 2 hours prior to this event, then it is safe to assume that all was well..

If it died "sudden like I hit the kill switch"  then I would strongly suspect an electrical issue as a fuel issues usually sputters around before a total turn off.

 

if the bike stopped due to a mechanical issue (like timing chain) you should have noticed a noise when the bike died as the piston crashed into valves. so im guessing that's not the problem.

 

a fowled spark plug can indeed stop your bike like a kill switch so replacing was a good move, however the old plug might help define your problems.. was it wet? black? eroded? humm....

 

as anohguy stated your carb work may make your task harder to solve. but what im hearing is your bike sounds lean or perhaps your black box is failing...

if you fiddled with the idle or air screw or replaced a float valve without checking level then you current issues may all stem from that...

 

but NONE of the carb issue explains why it stopped in the first place....check your timing and connections to your black box....

 

hope this helps...

Edited by daled

just my quick diagnosis...if the bike was running well for 2 hours prior to this event, then it is safe to assume that all was well..

If it died "sudden like I hit the kill switch"  then I would strongly suspect an electrical issue as a fuel issues usually sputters around before a total turn off.

 

if the bike stopped due to a mechanical issue (like timing chain) you should have noticed a noise when the bike died as the piston crashed into valves. so im guessing that's not the problem.

 

a fowled spark plug can indeed stop your bike like a kill switch so replacing was a good move, however the old plug might help define your problems.. was it wet? black? eroded? humm....

 

as anohguy stated your carb work may make your task harder to solve. but what im hearing is your bike sounds lean or perhaps your black box is failing...

if you fiddled with the idle or air screw or replaced a float valve without checking level then you current issues may all stem from that...

 

but NONE of the carb issue explains why it stopped in the first place....check your timing and connections to your black box....

 

hope this helps...

 

Got it starting perfectly fine now. It just started today cold second kick. I had the fuel line off the petcock and accidentally turned it ON without putting the fuel line back on lol and only a little bit trickled out, I set it to reserve and it flowed out smooth. I guess thats why it died, it got cloged or something but works fine on the reserve. I took it apart a few minuets ago to check the float level and it seems fine. Gas wont flow when the float thing is horizontal.

 

Now I still am having this issue, it barley idles with the choke all the way on, the IDLE screw has to be as far in as it can go for it to have a "bop bop bop bop" kinda idle. It then gives itself a little bit of throttle when I set the choke to half way or off.

Edited by HumboldtCo

Start by setting the float level properly.... After you order and receive you factory Honda shop manual (E Bay is usually a good source)

+ to be "Dialed" (Thanks for that tip Daled)

clean and tighten all electrical connections and clean all ground connections.

Edited by adnohguy

I think I fixed the idling and it revving by itself. It idles well with the choke off now. Just swapped out the new needle I put in with the old one.

 

I'm still not able to get the full power, when I pull the throttle I get more of a high rev and high RPM's. If I want to go fast I need to slowly go with the throttle to get good speed. All my gears slipped at once also, 1st gear also permanently slips every time but I don't ever use first gear so who really cares. I don't actually know what slipping gears sounds like but I am able to switch between them and use them fine for the most part, 1st gear just makes an actual "slip" noise, and at one point when I was riding I heard that "slip" noise go off like 4 or 5 times in a row all in under a second. Any ideas?? I might try and replacing my whole clutch when I get the extra $$.
 

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1439435204.064461.jpg

 

Come on man I'm trying to get my bike fixed! Screw taking it to the shop, it's better to trial and error learn yourself.

 

The idle was fixed by me swapping the new throttle needle back out with the old one. Rocky mountain is sometimes known to say a part works for your bike but ends up not, which is were I bought my carb rebuilt kit. I might put the old jets back on since I didn't toss em out and see if that fixes my high rev and power issue.

 

The "slip" noise coming from 1st gear, might be a broken tooth or something. Wouldn't hurt for me to get a new clutch system.

Edited by HumboldtCo

put the old jets back in the carb...they were working well before correct ?

in the future only make one change at a time...determine if it was a plus or a minus....then do the next change...if you must...

 

a broke tooth on any gear will not make a slipping sound..it will make a mechanical clunk sound and you should feel a pulse in the pull of the bike..

the stock Honda clutch does make a funny hard to describe sound when first engaging..... not typically noticed after first gear as there are too many other sounds piling into your ears.

 

PS> don't go to the shop...yes fix it your self...learn your bike...

put the old jets back in the carb...they were working well before correct ?

in the future only make one change at a time...determine if it was a plus or a minus....then do the next change...if you must...

 

a broke tooth on any gear will not make a slipping sound..it will make a mechanical clunk sound and you should feel a pulse in the pull of the bike..

the stock Honda clutch does make a funny hard to describe sound when first engaging..... not typically noticed after first gear as there are too many other sounds piling into your ears.

 

PS> don't go to the shop...yes fix it your self...learn your bike...

 

Ok, I only switched out the new jet needle and float valve with the old ones and that seemed to give me a LOT more power in 1st and 2nd, once I get into 3rd or higher I start getting that high rev and high rpm but no power to it. What could be that cause for that? I compared the new pilot jet to the old one and they were exactly the same so I kept the newer one in. 1st gear also doesn't make that "slip" noise anymore.

Edited by HumboldtCo

sounds lean or possibly too hot..

  1. check that your new plug is correct heat...
  2. confirm that your gas valve is not restricting fuel flow to the carb.
  3. replace inline fuel filter (if equipped) if flow of gass to carb is not a good stream.
  4. check for air leaks between the carb and the head.
  5. try moving the carb needle up..

try this one at a time....

 

I don't know how far you tore your carb down,

but if you removed the air screw its possible that it did not get reset correctly.

there is a carb tune method here on TT. check it out and confirm settings

Once again....Start by setting the float level properly....

Edited by adnohguy

Another weird problem:

Check out what I found for sale today on E Bay... only $397.00 + shippingImageUploadedByThumper Talk1439574733.703252.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1439574742.199920.jpg

WOW LOL

sounds lean or possibly too hot..

  1. check that your new plug is correct heat...
  2. confirm that your gas valve is not restricting fuel flow to the carb.
  3. replace inline fuel filter (if equipped) if flow of gass to carb is not a good stream.
  4. check for air leaks between the carb and the head.
  5. try moving the carb needle up..

try this one at a time....

 

I don't know how far you tore your carb down,

but if you removed the air screw its possible that it did not get reset correctly.

there is a carb tune method here on TT. check it out and confirm settings

 

I don't remember if I mentioned that I changed out the spark plug but, I got the "exact fit" according to this sparkplug website then went to a local auto shop and they had it. 

I checked my gas valve, it flows constantly

I've searched for air leaks, couldn't find anything

 

My CRF has a fuel screw and idle screw. I have indeed taken out the fuel screw out and replaced the o ring inside. I was messing with it yesterday trying to find the right setting while it was idling. I found a good spot, but I guess it was too loose and fell off when test riding yesterday.. Luckily I had the old one.

 

 

Once again....Start by setting the float level properly....

 

The float level is set correctly, I've tested it at least 3 times.

 

 

Question for anyone, does anything come to mind problem wise when you hear of a bike that high revs, has high RPM but not much power to it after a carb rebuild? Someones gotta know this stuff :/  

 

Sorry I'm a novice  

Since all of your work so far has been performed unquestionably correct....

Sounds like it's not uncorked and not jetted properly

Or

It is uncorked and not jetted properly

Or

You revving it to the limiter on purpose and yes it has low power when you do that.

Then:

Put a BBR box on it and rev it WAY up there....just let it scream.

(For no other reason other than it will rev up way higher)

It won't make an oz of extra power way up there but you will have some extra margin of rpm until it hits the new higher limiter.

Lol

After going thru this thread a few times what comes to mind is that you have an air leak that is causing the high idle, could the original problem of stalling been low fuel level?? Now you have attacked the carb & made a dog's dinner of it.

We need to stop & start from scratch.

Do you/can you get an exploded diagram of the 150F carb?(someone help here?)

Strip carb & lay out parts on a clean rag.

ID the parts from the exploded diagram, pay attention to the idle screw, spring, washer & 0-ring, all there?

What are the jet sizes?? Main, pilot & needle.

What exhaust & air cleaner do you have?

With the carb stripped do you have access to an air gun? Blow out jet holes from the holes in the mouth of the carb 1st then the holes inside carb.

How's it going so far??

Since all of your work so far has been performed unquestionably correct....

Sounds like it's not uncorked and not jetted properly

Or

It is uncorked and not jetted properly

Or

You revving it to the limiter on purpose and yes it has low power when you do that.

Then:

Put a BBR box on it and rev it WAY up there....just let it scream.

(For no other reason other than it will rev up way higher)

It won't make an oz of extra power way up there but you will have some extra margin of rpm until it hits the new higher limiter.

Lol

 

I've uploaded a youtube video of whats currently going on. 

 

 

After going thru this thread a few times what comes to mind is that you have an air leak that is causing the high idle, could the original problem of stalling been low fuel level?? Now you have attacked the carb & made a dog's dinner of it.

We need to stop & start from scratch.

Do you/can you get an exploded diagram of the 150F carb?(someone help here?)

Strip carb & lay out parts on a clean rag.

ID the parts from the exploded diagram, pay attention to the idle screw, spring, washer & 0-ring, all there?

What are the jet sizes?? Main, pilot & needle.

What exhaust & air cleaner do you have?

With the carb stripped do you have access to an air gun? Blow out jet holes from the holes in the mouth of the carb 1st then the holes inside carb.

How's it going so far??

 

A little bit has changed from when I first made this thread. Yes the stalling was because the fuel line got clogged or something but it's fixed now. 

My bike also doesn't take 10-15 kicks to start anymore, it now takes 1 kick even when cold.. I've uploaded a youtube video on what happens. 

Main Jet: 98

Pilot Jet: 40

I used this carb repair kit, http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/22358/i/moose-racing-carb-repair-kit it's supposed to be all OEM. I also have a size "42s" pilot jet but doesn't seem to make a difference. 

 

Edited by HumboldtCo

Ok, make sure the throttle cable isn't jamming under the tank & lifting the slide up a fraction, the idle adjusting screw is not allowing the slide to come down jamming it up a bit, throttle cable is not sitting in the top of the carby top properly or inner cable is not seated in slide properly lifting slide up, couple of things to look at.

Ok, make sure the throttle cable isn't jamming under the tank & lifting the slide up a fraction, the idle adjusting screw is not allowing the slide to come down jamming it up a bit, throttle cable is not sitting in the top of the carby top properly or inner cable is not seated in slide properly lifting slide up, couple of things to look at.

 

Haha the throttle cable is definitely seated right, same for the carb cap. If it wasn't, it would also rev by itself with the choke all the on but it doesn't. It doesn't want to idle with the choke all the way unless I give it throttle but as soon as I put it to half choke or no choke it just starts climbing the throttle by itself :/

 

Edit: I can get it to idle with the choke all the way off fine with the fuel screw almost all the screwed out, i'm about to put some thread lock on it. The idle screw actually works with the fuel screw how it is.

 

Before, I had no where near enough power to pop a wheelie in 2nd. It would just high rev when I popped the clutch and try to pound the throttle making me look like an idiot. After putting the fuel screw to it's position (thread locker so it wouldn't fall out), everything seems fine. I was finally able to pop a nice wheelie in 2nd no problem. Couple minuets later I tried it again and had no were near enough power to do it again. I kinda feel like the idle is fluctuating.

Edited by HumboldtCo

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