Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Thread for Rebuilding Honda XR500/XL500 Dual Shocks

Recommended Posts

A very knowledgable and helpful forum member (Muzz67) advised it is possible to do this with good results, and encouraged I give it a shot.  I'm making this thread to document the process, and as reference for other who might want to try it.

 

 

First, disassembly:

 

11417266_1169763149707610_625021187_n.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I started out by putting one of the shocks upside-down in a vise.  I'd strongly advise using a vise for this project, but you may be able to do without.

 

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wD5VOGc-KOjyrtiFieY1eIVpoH6_4OArFjX5-IzFZswy=w811-h608-no

 

I used a ratchet strap to to compress the spring and remove the retaining disc which sits between the bottom eye and the spring.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipML8UT7grGGxrnpLU_jT4e6EtQwmG7JrK0X7eBN

 

I removed the spring and disc:

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOpwEN6mSsL4vsvP_zMOCVzMQp7riKeTxZyEAsr

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMithtsbpLlv4bXGkUT9P3SV6kUeAg_WHpooZrP

Edited by wearetheroadcrew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next step is pulling off the cap.  There are two holes in it. If you thread a screw into one of the holes, you can then pull the cap off with a pliers. This will take some force.

 

Top of cap

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNNhlbx6how1WLcy62PMNcZ7pGcG8KURGAcXPTD

 

With screw, popped off.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPqOyKZCWP1hbKmLxQs5pqriAzs5n5ski6K5Qte

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now you can see the top of the internal parts of the shock.  To remove them, you need to get to a snap ring that sits just out of reach.  This was the hardest part for me.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMI09ZHnQEBsemrO6EX_CzGNSAxJUBJ9ifSexxd

 

I started out by flipping the shock upside down in the vise so I could hold the eye and remove it from the shaft. Then I used a lockring pliers (I actually made these ones out of an old set of channel-locks) to remove the cup peice that is threaded against the eye.  A regular lockring spanner will do the trick.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPpUGHSvpRWKWPzmbXIEz4uNnU_7ouyhNwBefI0

 

Now, turn the shock back over.  To get to that snap ring, you must compress the internal portion of the shock about a centimeter.  I did this by pushing the shaft all of the way into the shock, and setting a 1/2" drive socket on top of the shock.  THen I used a ratchet strap to compress the internals and expose the snap ring.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM7TsnlOEZmP5RUuhGsZ-aHa-MpXgbEBDiv5Zx5

 

You can see there are a couple peices of wood in the vise to protect the shock.  It takes coniderable force to compress the internals.  I though something was going to break it, but then they moved.  If you have trouble, tap the top of the socket with a hammer to loosed things up.  When it moves, you should be able to see the snap ring.  The snap ring is also tough to fish out.  I used a precision screwdriver and the tip of a zip tie to manuver it out.

 

Watch out - when everything finally comes apart, there will be a little spray of oil - it's worth wrapping a shop rag aroung the end of the shock before it comes apart.

Edited by wearetheroadcrew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Once the shock is apart, you will have two peices - The body and the internals

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOvHz3NHqlCTjsgQHLpjxrbOhw3nTqyxGlXnXjj

 

The internal part contains the o-ring and the seal, which we are replacing.

 

The body just has a bunch of old oil in it.  There was about 200ml left in mine.  You put it upside down in the vise, so the oil is still contained in the body.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMLfoqJtsTlBQovPthmV-bLI7Ja9TpMNETQX9HR

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Slide the movable part of the shock internals off of the shaft.  Peel off the O-ring. Flip it over and remove the snap ring, which will allow you to get at the seal inside.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMyxJhVQosD7g2ROq1CoqclULdGJjACfQR-qMUo

 

These two rubber parts create the seal against the shaft and inside of the shock body.  They are the consumable parts we will be replacing.  As far as I know, Honda doesn't supply replacement seals, so I'm going to source the seal from a metric hydraulic seal provider.  By my measurements, the dimensions are

 

ID = 12mm

OD = 24mm

Width = 5mm

 

The O-ring is a standard metric O-ring, as far as I can tell.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPzqiXqpd5nwesw6sGf5EqOgj3ieQ4eQywa_Hms

 

I haven't ordered the seals yet, but I'll post a link and description when I find it.

Edited by wearetheroadcrew

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now comes the interesting part.  The goal is to attach Schrader valves (the kind found on innertubes) to the shock bodies, so they can be filled with oil and nitrogen.  To do this, we will drill small (3mm) holes in the shock bodies and braze the valve stems over them.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNXe7Njr6Y1PBZ1qlNLBv5k4-jYN1ptIrEBHbdv

 

I'm terrible at brazing, so I'll be dropping the parts off with a friend for help.

 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNTVyajOEZ1dWD8a6ZVkp-wOiMiWh1ppGq5w5bN

 

These are prepped to go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×