01 CR 250 Front Fork's

So my 01 CR 250 front fork's don't compress at all. They stay stuck and don't even go back to the original position it is supposed to be. I touched the fork's and a i get a fair amount of oil in my finger. I bet nobody ever has rebuild this suspension and i had the bike for 4 maybe 6 month's would i need to rebuild the fork's? New bushing's seals and oil?

Yes. It is time for a complete bushing & o-ring kit, new ICS & cartridge rod seals (Race Tech sells these), and new fluid & all new seals (wipers & dust seals). If you have never done it, it sounds very difficult. In reality, it's not hard at all. I can remove, service, and put back both forks on a bike in about 2 hours and that is taking my time and getting everything as clean as possible, and letting everything dry, before reassembly.

 

There are many good videos on how to do it. A seal driver is helpful as is a seal bullet (nifty little device that allows the seal to slide over the threaded/shouldered part of the shaft without damaging it. If you don't have those tools it can still be done but you have to find a suitable implement to drive the seal in with. Electrical tape works on the shouldered/threaded section.

Yes. It is time for a complete bushing & o-ring kit, new ICS & cartridge rod seals (Race Tech sells these), and new fluid & all new seals (wipers & dust seals). If you have never done it, it sounds very difficult. In reality, it's not hard at all. I can remove, service, and put back both forks on a bike in about 2 hours and that is taking my time and getting everything as clean as possible, and letting everything dry, before reassembly.

There are many good videos on how to do it. A seal driver is helpful as is a seal bullet (nifty little device that allows the seal to slide over the threaded/shouldered part of the shaft without damaging it. If you don't have those tools it can still be done but you have to find a suitable implement to drive the seal in with. Electrical tape works on the shouldered/threaded section.

I'd seen a few vid's and it doens't look hard at all i need a fork cap wrench tho..

Depending on your weight, the forks could still be stiff after a rebuild. Try sending suspension to get revalved. If you can do it yourself, remove 5 or 6 compression shims in an intelligent pattern. Then change the pressure springs and main springs for your weight. It should plushen up a lot.you can also lower the fork oil level.

If you have a vise you don't need the fork cap wrench.  Use the upper fork clamp as a wrench. Gently place the fork upside down in the vise and LIGHTLY take out the clearance on the cap (just lightly snug..don't tighten the vise as you don't want crush it). Loosen it with the clamp. You just6 saved yourself money...lol.....my vise also has a pipe clamp on the bottom. I used to a piece of plastic Pee trap tubing to wrap the inner housing so that I could clamp the housing without damaging it . This will allow you to remove the fork cap from the housing.

Edited by Budlite

For that dampened rod tool thingy I lock the rubber hand grips of Chanel locks with some vice grips. Works like a charm

For that dampened rod tool thingy I lock the rubber hand grips of Chanel locks with some vice grips. Works like a charm

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