electrical(I think?) problem

[afritzsch90]

so I was in the woods not riding hard or anything, and the bike just died out of nowhere. The fan ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. Tried to restart, nothing, not even the starter spinning. Tried again, nothing. So I pull the seat and number panels and start looking for anything obvious, nothing I can see. When I turn the key on I get all lights and turn signals and horn, no problems. End up stashing the bike in the woods and walking a few miles for service and get a ride home, get the truck and go pick it up. 

 

Get it home and start to look deeper, plugged the bike into the tender as well. Battery is good. Take the headlight off and start looking at the loom behind there to see if a wire got pinched by the steering stop, nothing. Looked for worn wires and things like that, the bike has 24k on it so totally possible, nothing. But I did find that when I hit the starter button it makes a single click sound, listened and narrowed it down to the turn signal relay making the noise. The blinkers work like normal, so I don't think that has anything to do with it. 

 

The side stand safety switch and clutch safety switch have been removed for at least the past 14k miles so they aren't the issue, I checked the wiring to make sure the wires didn't come apart. I was thinking it was maybe the right hand control on the bars, with the starter button and kill switch. But I don't think its that either because the kill switch works still, the click sound doesn't happen if you have it in the not running position. So my next thought was neutral safety switch, and that's about where I'm at now.

 

So, am I headed down the right path here? Is there any way to check it? Should I just replace it? Am I totally off in left field?

 

Thanks

Edited August 13, 2015 by afritzsch90

[joetroop30]

It's been a while since I had an e-start, battery or fuse on my bike, so I can't remember how the wiring went, but did you check the fuse?

[joetroop30]

Also last year my bike went from running to not running.  Wouldn't kick over at all.  It turned out to be the stator. 

[afritzsch90]

yeah checked the fuse, looked good, changed it just in case, still nothing

[cycleholic2010]

I would try to start with the easiest then work your way backwards. Grab a volt meter and start at the starter. Does the starter get power when cranking. I am assuming not. Then check both sides of the solenoid/relay. Does it get power on either side when pushing the start button. The one side feeds directly from the battery so it should have power. Assuming the other side does not i would jump the relay and make sure it turns over. From there you just start following the wiring diagram and checking things. Does power come from the switch to the relay.. etc. I found a diagram here.http://www.kawiforums.com/two-wheeled-discussion/299650-my-tail-running-lights-wont-work-but-brake-does.html#/forumsite/20770/topics/299650

Disclaimer. I have not been here on the drz yet. This is just from my automotive experience. Someone more drz experienced may correct me.

Edited August 13, 2015 by cycleholic2010

[siscoken]

start at your battery connections ...I have had poor connections that will run lights but as soon as you go to crank (soliniod click) you will loose connection at one of the bat terminal...then it will come right back as soon as that high load is gone..

Anyway that is the first thing to eliminate.

[Noble]

Perfectly correct.  Jump the terminals on the relay and see if the starter cranks.  Since the relay does not click when you push START, I'm assuming the problem is in the relay control circuit or the relay itself.  If no crank when jumping the relay, then likely to be the starter.  I just went thru this.  A good loud click from the relay but no starter action.  The starter was wet inside and completely corroded.  Even had loose magnets.

[Jason.]

Could be worn brushes in the started motor. If the solenoid clicks and you are getting power then that would be my guess. If the starter is corroded inside then one of the brushes could have seized. You get no notice, one second it works and then it just dies.

 

Assuming you have a good battery, a good earth, good battery contacts, and 13v at the starter then i reckon that's your problem.

[afritzsch90]

So I jumped the relay, starter turned. Awesome! So that means the starter is good, I don't have time today but I'll try to get the relay out and test like the clymer manual says to. Or should I just order a new relay?

[Noble]

Don't go ordering anything yet.  Might be the relay but my guess is it is in the wiring to the relay.  All you have to do to test the relay is un-plug the 2 small wires. Connect 1 to ground and 1 to 12 volt power.  Relay should activate.  Relay OK?  Now check 1 of the control wires goes to ground, the other control wire should have 12 volts then the key is ON, transmission in neutral, side stand up or down, clutch lever pulled and start button pushed. (obviously lots of places in the circuit to loose connection)

[afritzsch90]

I work second shift so I couldn't test anything on the bike, but I took the relay to work with me to test. I have a power supply here and ohm meter so I just put 12v to the relay and measured the resistance and got nothing, no click from the relay when power is put to it. According to the clymer manual that means the relay is bad, agreed?

[afritzsch90]

just looked up a new in the parts fiche, damn...$80???

[siscoken]

Yes operate the solinoid with a 12v sourse and it should click and you should have continuity across large terminals......but that would not explain the engine quittimg....solinoid is only for crank circuit.

[afritzsch90]

yes good point, haven't thought about that. So is there something else I should check as well?

[siscoken]

Just take apart and clean all your main connections and make sure they are properly tighted. Before you order your solinoid check your solinoid control circuit on bike...12v test light across the bike side connection ...hit the start button and it should light brite. (dont use a voltmeter for this test...it is open circuit voltage which can be decieving) your solinoid may faulty...but these tests only take a few minutes to confirm

[siscoken]

I kind of suspected when you said the engine quit and the cooling fan continued to run for a few seconds...your lighting and cooling fan are the largest load on bat and charging...could have pulled you battery voltage down to a point that your cdi couldn't function

[afritzsch90]

it kind of seemed to just stall, it will do that occasionally when its warm and i'm at lower rpm's. i was just putting through woods slow in 2nd gear, i think i pulled in the clutch because i was going into a corner and it died when i pulled in the clutch. like i said, normal to me, until it wouldn't restart

Edited August 14, 2015 by afritzsch90

[cycleholic2010]

The relay should not keep it from running. You jumped it and it turned over... did it start? If it starts and stays running by jumping relay and is getting power from the start button when pushed then u should be pretty safe assuming relay.

[siscoken]

it kind of seemed to just stall, it will do that occasionally when its warm and i'm at lower rpm's. i was just putting through woods slow in 2nd gear, i think i pulled in the clutch because i was going into a corner and it died when i pulled in the clutch. like i said, normal to me, until it wouldn't restart

Then it is safe to assume that it was just a coi cidense.

Good luck and I hope your running soon

the above posts have given you good advice.

Edited August 14, 2015 by siscoken

[Noble]

I would recheck your relay using a 12V battery.  I know nothing about your 12 volt power supply.  It does not take a lot of current to operate the relay but like I say I know nothing about your 12 volt power supply.