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Another mod (hooligan wheel)

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Another Mod  (hooligan)

After a lot of frustration about my rear wheel always getting loose spoke and breaking some (even after I put on a complete HD kit from buchanan) I got tired of always worrying about it and decided to go ahead and fit a mag/alloy wheel on it.

 

So I read a lot on the web and on TT forum.

 

I don’t like 3 spoke like the bandit and GS500 and want to run a 150-160tire and a working cush drive.

I found that a CBR600F3 was doable and I happen to have one laying under my patio for about 5 years.

 

-Found a CB919 2002-2006 or silverwing400 rear rotor has the same bolt pattern and everything as the CBR600F3 and a 240mm diameter to fit the DRZ400SM caliper without any modification: so that was a match and bought a brand new one.

-520 conversion in 41 tooth are rare for the F3(in catalog), but the 2000 R6 520 conversion is the same, just as it’s the stock NC700/CT700x sprocket size. Was easy to find;)  (went with 42 since 41 was B/O….no big deal)

-Thanks god for the internet catalogs with all the info!!!

 

Since I got a lathe/mill combo 2 years ago, I start doing some test, and it was going good enough for it to do the job. Only thing that wasn’t possible would have been turning the wheel itself, but that was the smallest job, so I have it done by a shop.

(bear in mind I’m a beginner/self taught machinist by listening to youtube video (Keith Fenner and Abom79 are awesome on youtube!)

 

I get started by removing the stock sprocket studs:  Grind a slot on top and with a little heat from a propane torch, unscrew it with a flat head screw driver and a wrench to turn the screwdriver. (My vise grip wasn’t enough and wasn’t going to reuse them anyways.)

 

Next: finding a way to mount the cush drive to the lathe: Took me almost a full day to machine the fixture from a piece of pipe I had laying around (been very lucky on that one..lol)

 

Turned up:

E4A6B937-B54E-4E0D-B686-FF1C7C908B05_zps

 

Fitted on the cush drive, then spot welded at each tab

E471CC05-8550-4F48-A2B2-DE902384B3EF_zps

 

And mounted on the lathe:

F46B686C-0F6F-4B60-BC7C-43FCEA1ACD3A_zps

 

After quite a bit of time at the back of the bike measuring and comparing I came with good measurement and start turning the face. As you can see: quite a bit of material needed to be removed

0FE767A6-EF6E-4AF1-A3C7-C56D3C343A3A_zps

OD of the cush drive bearing done (with a lip to keep everything in place)

8E39A01B-6B4C-4C82-935A-168ED176B5BD_zps

BC046168-67FB-48B8-B88B-5FC285746924_zps

Time to cut the sleeve loose of the cush drive: (spot weld cut, and cush drive cleaned up)

593748BA-E4D6-41B0-B27B-3CF2E0D8B9E7_zps

 

 

Then the issue of the F3 sprocket stud hole: They are M12x1,25 and I didn’t found any supplier that could have the flat head socket bolt. I decide to machine a sleeve: outside M12x1,25 and ready for a inside M8x1,25..but f*ed it up and they broke in the cush drive before been all the way in. Then had to drill them and put insert. I went with outside 9/16-12 inside 3/8-24 since it was the closest I could fit in the M12 thread hole.  It is not perfect so I might redo the cush drive later on, but will work good for now.

Insert and bolts

04305ED7-514D-44C4-8C45-8CDED1287F97_zps

Drilled and tapped 9/16-12

472CB84A-A936-483F-AF7B-35AC3256E517_zps

Insert in

13A1E952-76A5-4026-BDED-DD1DD3721D3B_zps


Came time to countersink the bolt hole in the brand new sprocket: Had to sharpen a 11/16 drill bit to the right angle (40degree)

(this is not 100% perfect..but I would say 95%  so plenty good)

256E24A7-9E45-4181-8635-5C128B32A14A_zps

79E3F9B1-FE3E-4931-B787-5123F4B5E69D_zps

 

Untouched wheel bearing and cush drive face/rubber:

30498547-6634-4828-B50C-9B927C9B1EB4_zps

 

Cush drive installed in its spot:

2213E6FC-0DC7-4249-ACBB-7A9CF5771BE6_zps

 

6804-2rs bearing installed(with retaining compound)

Decided to go with this bearing since it can tolerate lateral force(won’t be much) and I didn’t have to build up welds to have it fitted on the cush drive itself. Not always easy to tig weld inside a small hole: I prefered to machine a bigger spacer.(see next)

C6020070-4F5D-4761-BD71-E83BB5F4485F_zps

 

The wheel rotor side machined: (had to remove 7mm of material on all faces (bearing parts and disk mounting surface..they are not all inline) and redrill the rotor bolt shoulder

F2A9B5DC-7688-437F-8B21-295473EF0FEF_zps

 

Rotor mounted on the wheel with the F3 hardware:

25F5FD08-CEEC-4F9F-A210-8CFA22C1ED73_zps

 

Now time for some spacer:

Didn’t have a big enough Aluminium stock but plenty of 4043 tig filler rod, so here it is(32mm stock build up to 65mm):

72C18856-5DD4-44B5-B32F-99E34E4E8181_zps

 

Once all machined up and part off:

You can see the cush drive 6804 bearing seat/lip and then reduce to go on the wheel bearing.

Note: The bearing isn’t compressed when the wheel is installed.

5E42344D-B748-49B5-9465-92B14E81F3C3_zps

B8D42CDE-78E3-4E80-B905-D4C3733E1A64_zps

 

On the rotor side is a plain 4mm spacer.

Edited by maxpat82
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Everything installed on the bike:

C60498ED-A161-4C39-BEF8-43FC40141A0D_zps

 

About 5mm of tire to swingarm clearance with a 160 tire

1C9571A6-9F3D-453C-9AB5-A42AAB40F4E9_zps

 

Plenty of sprocket to swingarm clearance

CF3E08B7-8375-49A2-B6A8-567E6BC8583F_zps

 

Plenty of tire to chain clearance (about 5mm again)

CD41950B-7FDF-4FBE-8A13-80AF0D29B8DC_zps

 0CFA8723-0F51-4239-AE4D-A3C23E39FD56_zps

6D4A7083-BF35-4040-A9CB-523F28BA12C8_zps

 

Mesurement specs wheel spacer:

ADF92347-5F42-4917-8A79-F6E8C216A75D_zps

Mesurement specs cush drive:

2646D9BD-2A6D-4F9F-8382-55AA4BF0FE9F_zps

 

As you might have figured out : There’s no seal anymore. All bearing are sealed and I only ride street with my SM on 17” so won’t be an issue (and bearing are cheap(30$ for all 3)

 

Did a small test run yesterday night after putting new front sprocket and chain.

Took it to work this morning

Everything run awesome, tire not rubbing anywhere (cahin, swingarm). The cushdrive is a charm to ride…smooothhhh!!  :D

 

 

Took me the best of 3 weekend and a couple evening in the garage (I was in a rush since I was riding my offroad wheel set for the last 2 week since my SM wheel had broken spoke and was very loose(dangerous)

 

Will be doing the front wheel this winter (from a F3 again…hope it will work)

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woooo, great job man. drawings, deminsions, even how you held and machined the pieces. really, fantastic tutorial here ! :)

 

 

would you mind if it was part of the hooligan mod thread ? i'm not saying it HAS to be moved, but having your information in the same place would be nice to be able to reference. :)

 

the blue bike looks nice too ! 

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thanks 

don't mind my thread being refered to other one(I search quickly for it earlier but haven't found)

 

ps.: there's many other way to do the cush drive bearing.

 

it's still far from been a bolt-on  thing ;)

Edited by maxpat82

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I thought I would hate it because most people use the ugly gs500 wheel, but it looks really good.

 

FWIW, the proper countersink on a english bolt is 82 degrees...

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42?  no way it can be 82! ;)

 

edit...yeah you're right.  82.

I made them to 80 then..not bad.;)  next one will be on 82.  thanks!

Edited by maxpat82
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42?  no way it can be 82! ;)

 

edit...yeah you're right.  82.

I made them to 80 then..not bad. ;)  next one will be on 82.  thanks!

 

Yeah, you'd probably have a lot of trouble actually measuring it anyways, and 2 degrees isn't much. Also, for anyone curious, the proper countersink for a metric screw is 90 degrees. Metric wins again!

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Nice job, but why does the rim paint look like cat hair?

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Nice do us a favor and put a link in the hooligan mod thread! The extra Honda info is priceless

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Nice job, but why does the rim paint look like cat hair?

cause it's a used wheel....it even have a small bend on the lip. nothing to be worried about.

I'll have it powdercoated this winter...right now I just want to use it.

 

you might talk about the picture with the chain:  it's only new chain lube that have fling all over.

 

 

the other wheel thread: there's a couple out there. there's not real "official" one ;) 

Edited by maxpat82

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When I bought the SV650 rims, the front had a curb ding.  Local rim shop fixed it, no leaks or run out.

 

Hope you find a front rim, will look Sierra Hotel.

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cause it's a used wheel....it even have a small bend on the lip. nothing to be worried about.

I'll have it powdercoated this winter...right now I just want to use it.

 

you might talk about the picture with the chain:  it's only new chain lube that have fling all over.

 

 

the other wheel thread: there's a couple out there. there's not real "official" one ;)

 

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1048664-the-hooligan-mod-thread/ 

 

^^^^ this one would be great. it's just a request, because DETAILED information like yours is really hard to come by, and having it all in one place is extremely helpful when folks start looking for HOWTO's and TUTORIALs on the subject. I know I benefitted from planedr's and other's information there when I did it. :)

 

Thanks ! 

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Well  after a test: a Pilot Road 2 in 160 doesn't fit on a 5" wheel in the SM swingarm(rub on the swingarm and chain)
but my old D211 in 160 yes.
The PR2 is 173mm wide when mounted and pressurized while the D211 is 165.
will need to get my a new 150 (or real 160) tire this winter.

 

And what my bike look now:
5070EB69-B11B-45CA-AC38-22C84760A720_zps
38BFC6D1-7146-443D-8C4F-3DBFD15F7C1C_zps
Had to make chain bracket since the original owner had cut them from the swingarm:
38202FB7-940D-4147-B026-33E3FEBA3D1B_zps
Thanks to SPVM agent Smith for his vehicule inspection ticket....a*****

 

Yes, I'm on my off-road wheel (my knobbies are DOT) for the inspection since my D211 isn't in it's best shape.

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That looks so much better then the 3-spoke (no offense to those running them). Thanks for the informative write up!

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You're going in for a vehicle inspection with 1/2 your headlight covered up? Why?

 will remove it. I thought about it after the picture. (been like so since I bought the bike 6 years ago.  totally forget on the moment..ahaha

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