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FE 501 Oil Change Questions

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Mine should be in sometime this month.  Reading a 2015 .pdf owner's manual and have these questions:

 

- Do you change the fuel screen each time?

  -- Or can you clean it with carb cleaner or something?

  -- How much does it cost?

 

- Do you  change the oil screen each time?

  -- How does it come out - with an allen wrench?

  -- Or can you clean it with carb cleaner or gas?

  -- How much does it cost?

 

- Do you always lay the bike on its side to partially fill the oil filter cavity with oil?

 

Thanks!

Ken

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Fuel screen- no, you don't. About $10

Oil screen- not every time, but every 3-4 changes. Yes, clean with parts cleaner

Oil changes, just put filter in and add oil on clutch side.

Very easy to work on

Edited by 1 lunger
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I'd lay the bike over and prefil with oil. It makes the time the motor is waiting for oil to pump through less, therefore motor should last longer.

I also clean both oil screens each time, takes an additional 2 minutes or so and I can monitor the particle frquency (if any).

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Whew.  What a relief.  Thanks Lunger!  I keep going to the dealer to see the 350.  Cant wait to see the new 501S  They're only getting 1 501S on the 1st batch.  Glad I snagged it.

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You would pre oil the filter cavity if the motor was dry, like when new or it's been apart.  If your concerned about starting the motor without doing it you could hold the kill switch and crank it over a few times to put oil in there.  

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HM, you happen to own one of these off color KTM's, or even the correct color?

Manual recommends priming the oil filter cavity on pg 95, and not just after its been apart or new. Not a major inconvenience taking 60 seconds to lay over, pour in a bit, then button it back up and back upright. Pretty pricey bike to take short cuts on (I know, I have one).

Oh, page 94 recommends cleaning all screens. That 120 seconds is a major inconvenience, so why not skip it and roll the dice.

Ken - use your best judgement, it's your money after all.

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Thanks j-blanken. I'm gathering supplies & gear while I anxiously await it's arrival. The 2016 parts list already shows up on the dealer computer, so I got my 1st 2 oil filters & some amsoil. I'll grab a gas screen next trip. I'm a retired airplane mechanic & can't resist working on stuff!

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HM, you happen to own one of these off color KTM's, or even the correct color?

Manual recommends priming the oil filter cavity on pg 95, and not just after its been apart or new. Not a major inconvenience taking 60 seconds to lay over, pour in a bit, then button it back up and back upright. Pretty pricey bike to take short cuts on (I know, I have one).

Oh, page 94 recommends cleaning all screens. That 120 seconds is a major inconvenience, so why not skip it and roll the dice.

Ken - use your best judgement, it's your money after all.

 

Correct color manual says the same thing, as does my 530 manual. Don't blame anyone for doing it, I used to till I looked at the oil flow diagram.  It's more about getting the level set right than starving any parts.

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Oil is so good these days and I always run the bike for a couple min before I change the oil, so I know all the parts are covered. It's up to you wether you want to spend the extra time and do it that way or not. I don't feel it's that big a deal. I put 1.3+-qt of oil, run the bike for a min and let sit. Then I top of oil level. I have an EXP core 3.0 and I think the cover allows for a little more oil. At least it did on my Berg 570. I have a friend that drained the oil in his bike before installing his Rekluse. He then forgot he had done this and proceeded to run the bike for about 5min from "cold". The bike is fine and no harm done. This only strengthens my feelings on this matter. Whichever way you decide to change you oil I'm sure it's fine, just make sure the level is correct. My oil never sees 200 miles, so my screens are checked and cleaned every 600 and I'm fine with that. My Berg has 5000 miles on it and screens are alway clean. The most I get is some smudge on the drain plug. These motors are dead reliable! Don't over think it. Just change your oil regularly, use good oil and do it the way that makes you feel comfortable.

Best,

Hugh

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SAM_1090.JPGI change my oil on my 15' FE501 every 8 to 10 hours now that its broke in, 35 hours and about 600 miles or just a bit less. I do it up on my big bike lift and pull my P3 carbon skid plate. I clean both cartridge screens every time I service it. I wipe any sludge from the magnetic drain plug off on a clean paper towel to look at it closely under a magnified desk lamp lens.

I have checked the valve clearance twice and they are dead nuts in specs.

I run a PC155 S/S re-usable oil filter. I use brake cleaner and low pressure compressed air on all the screens and filters every time. I replace the o-rings on the cartridge filters from a 440 pc. set box of metric O-rings I got from Amazon. If they visually show any damage under a magnified desk lamp lens. I then dunk the PC S/S filter in fresh oil and install it. I tip the bike far over to the left side to help drain out all the oil and only do it when it's warm or hot. I Fill with 1500cc Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40 European car blend formula and have, since the first 30 minutes when I did my first oil change. I also hold the kill switch and crank the bike over before I start it for about 10 seconds. All is good. It Fricken rips. I get 2 to 3 rear tires trashed before I can even go through a 5 quart jug of oil. LOL!

Edited by Tims1572

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Cool tims1572! I'm getting more anxious every day! Love the graphics on your bike. I wanted one of those but they ate all gone. Plus, I want to use the dealer near my house, incase I need to ride it there.

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The graphics are stock except for a few oddly placed stickers I keep changing in the higher wear areas from my own riding gear and knee braces through my riding pants.I have a complete set of new "Acerbis" black plastics with a set of the Husky Factory enduro team graphics going on soon. I also have a set of Blue Husaberg plastics and spare white,(with the black trimmed insert) set of front shrouds with "ZipTy Racing" team graphics. The AZ desert is hard on plastics or is it just me. The bikes only been dropped twice when I was stationary and couldn't get a foot down.

My BMW G450X in my Avatar picture, I must have about 6 complete sets of plastics for it and 4 sets are brand new and about 8 pairs of fenders total. I got the market cornered on that one.

Edited by Tims1572

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Nice! That's usually when I fall too. When stopped in a rural or on top of a funky hill!

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On 9/7/2015 at 2:01 PM, Tims1572 said:

SAM_1090.JPGI change my oil on my 15' FE501 every 8 to 10 hours now that its broke in, 35 hours and about 600 miles or just a bit less. I do it up on my big bike lift and pull my P3 carbon skid plate. I clean both cartridge screens every time I service it. I wipe any sludge from the magnetic drain plug off on a clean paper towel to look at it closely under a magnified desk lamp lens.

I have checked the valve clearance twice and they are dead nuts in specs.

I run a PC155 S/S re-usable oil filter. I use brake cleaner and low pressure compressed air on all the screens and filters every time. I replace the o-rings on the cartridge filters from a 440 pc. set box of metric O-rings I got from Amazon. If they visually show any damage under a magnified desk lamp lens. I then dunk the PC S/S filter in fresh oil and install it. I tip the bike far over to the left side to help drain out all the oil and only do it when it's warm or hot. I Fill with 1500cc Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40 European car blend formula and have, since the first 30 minutes when I did my first oil change. I also hold the kill switch and crank the bike over before I start it for about 10 seconds. All is good. It Fricken rips. I get 2 to 3 rear tires trashed before I can even go through a 5 quart jug of oil. LOL!

Tims1572 - I really like the idea of cranking the bike over with kill switch on to get the filter cavity full, etc.  Checking into your recommended SS filter - interesting and thanks for the link.  I'd like to know more if they really are what they say they are.  I came here looking for a non-OEM filter I saw some guy using on youtube but I can't figure out the part number to search for.  I just got a '17 501 - mine recommends 10W-50 - not sure if yours does or not but I personally would not use a different weight than what is recommended  - oil viscosity is critical for cold starts (no metal on metal) and hot temps (same thing).  Anyway, one more comment on using custom oils and this is a biggy.  Many car oils have additives that reduce friction (typically labeled "Energy conserving", etc.).  It is my understanding that these can cause clutch slippage, etc.  So, as tempted as I am to go buy less expensive synthetic oil at walmart (i.e., Mobil 1, etc.), I am leery of doing this because of these additives.  My past 5 motorcycles have been very explicit about this (Africa Twin, FE501, DRz400, GROM, etc.).  I think they all say the oil must meet the "MA" spec. So, food for thought - check your owner's manual carefully because as much as I like to think the manufacturer's steer us toward their oils for profit, there are some reasons behind some of the recommendations.

Edited by scott taggart
wrong person quoted

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Scott,

You might want to do a little research on the Mobil 1 Synthetic 0w 40 Oil specifically. This is the "European car blend" "Mercedes, BMW, Volkswagon", first of all it has no friction modifiers or additives that can cause clutch slippage. Take a look at the label of this product. If the oils rating circle that is on the back label has anything written in the bottom outside ring on the lower half of that circle it would indicate that the oil has a friction modifier additive package. This Mobil 1 Synthetic European blend 0W-40 oil does not.  It is perfectly safe for wet clutch applications.

You are right about cold start up on oil flow. 0W 40 flows more oil at start up than any 10w50. If you run a 10w 50 oil when the oil is cold. Trust me a 0W 40 oil will get more oil flow from the pressure side of the oil pump through the engines oiling jets when its cold. Think about sucking gear lube through a small straw when its cold, you will get the idea.

The 0W 40 still has plenty of lubrication properties when its hot. My Bike now has well over 140 hours and has needed nothing,  on its 9th rear tire. I run Mousses front and rear. The bike gets plenty of abuse. I ride the Arizona high desert, 4200 ft. and above. I run a Core 3.0 EXP Rekluse clutch and a Boyeson Water pump impeller and housing. I also run ZipTy XF2 waterless coolant.  My bike has only had to have 1 valve adjustment needed. That was at the 80 hour point and that wasn't even really even necessary as I just replaced both of the Exhaust shims with a pair of new shims of the identical thickness to bring it closer to within factory specs. The valve tips will wear a ever so slight witness mark on the center of the shims. Which was an immeasurable amount with a brand new digital caliper. However the feeler gauge is what really matters. This shim change made me feel better and wasn't even needed.  I check valve clearance every 20 or so hours. Zero issues running the 0W 40 Mobil 1 in both of my bikes.

Oil companies pay big money to have their tiny recommended brand label on the crankcases of production bikes and that label changes year to year on some models with the same engines.

The PC "Flow" 155 oil filter is only about 25.00 shipped. I run them in both of my bikes and always have with Mobil 1 0W 40 Euro blend.

You might want to check with ZipTy Racing and Owner "Ty Davis" about that. They recommend this Mobil 1 0W 40 and build some of the best engines for desert racing on the west coast.

 

Edited by Tims1572

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2 hours ago, Tims1572 said:

Scott,

You might want to do a little research on the Mobil 1 Synthetic 0w 40 Oil specifically....

 

Thanks.  Good to know about the oil not having any additives.  I am sure the oil is all it's cracked up to be but I have to say using a different weight oil than what is suggested makes little sense to me.  Why do it without some science for that bike to back it up (my bike hasn't failed yet is not science).  Are you using that weight because that all that is a available? Why not use the recommended weight? KTM recommends bel-ray oil so they have no vested interest in selling oil.  Presumably they know the best weight for their own machines.  Regarding the scotts filter, I can't seem to get through the many controversies posted in many forums about the efficacy of these stainless filters.

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I believe you must be quoting someone else with the comment, (my bike hasn't failed yet is not science)  Where did that come from ?

Do what ever you want to do, I'm not trying to convince the people that follow the KTM/Husky tech manual to the letter and I'm certainly not trying to start the next great oil debate.

Husqvarna and KTM also recommend that you rebuild the entire engine at the recommended service intervals as set forth in the service manual.  Please be sure to have this done at a qualified KTM/Husky dealership near you and make sure to replace every single bearing in the engine along with all the other internal parts they say has an expected service life. They recommend that too but is it common for everybody that owns 1 of their bikes to have this done. They know what's best, right?  What's best for them is making money selling parts, oil, accessories, etc. after the fact and selling you a new bike to everybody that believes what the service manual says is even better.

The truth is, Bel Ray pays a shitload of money and has partnered up as a major sponsor to Husqvarna to paste their label on the crankcase. (It used to be a "Motorex" sticker).  Of course they are going to tell you to use Bel Ray oil. If you want to spend 8 to 9 bucks or more for a quart you can go right ahead but how can you say  "KTM recommends Bel Ray oil so they have no vested interest in selling oil" ?  They sell it at every Husqvarna dealership for now. I would say they have a pretty damned good vested interest and an even better profit margin.  I'm not going to stop you from buying what ever oil you want over priced or not, let alone question what you want to do.

Please read the announcement below and explain to us how KTM or in this case Husqvarna has no vested interest in selling oil ?

*****************************************************************************************************************************

Bel-Ray Announces Partnership with Husqvarna Motorcycles

October, 2013

World-renowned global lubricants company Bel-Ray Company, Inc. is excited to announce an agreement with Husqvarna Motorcycles GmbH that will make Bel-Ray products lubricant of choice for all new Husqvarna machines. In addition, Bel-Ray will become the presenting sponsor of the Husqvarna’s global factory-supported racing efforts.

            Husqvarna has endorsed Bel-Ray’s technology-proficient lubricants for all current and future Husqvarna models, including the recently announced 2014 model range. Husqvarna customers around the world can be confident knowing that the machines they are riding are not only the most technologically advanced, but that they possess the latest in lubrication technology to keep them performing at their maximum efficiency. 

            Bel-Ray’s complete line of powersports lubricants will be used as the first fill and OEM recommendation on each Husqvarna motorcycle. These products include Bel-Ray’s Works Thumper Racing Synthetic Ester 4T Engine Oil, Blue Tac Chain Lube and Moto Chill Racing Coolant, each of which offers exceptional performance and extended reliability.

            A variety of products from Bel-Ray’s extensive line of specialty powersports lubricants will also be used in the production of new Husqvarnas and recommended for all lubrication points on the machines and for further service and maintenance at the worldwide Husqvarna dealer network. Husqvarna factory racing groups, including the Bel-Ray Factory Husqvarna Racing Team and Husqvarna racing subsidiaries, will immediately begin using Bel-Ray products in their racing efforts and  begin seeing the improved performance Bel-Ray lubricants provides.

            For nearly 70 years, Bel-Ray products have proven their value by setting the highest standards of quality and performance. As a leader in lubrication technology, Bel-Ray products have been engineered to protect while delivering performance for applications in aerospace, automotive, energy, food, marine, military, mining, motorcycle, OEM, powersports, steel and textile and other industries served by the Powersports, Marine, Industrial and Mining Divisions.

            Proven performance and protection are the hallmark of Bel-Ray specialty lubricants.  Powersports enthusiasts worldwide can take advantage of these products distributed to thousands of dealers via Bel-Ray’s vast distribution network with partners in 71 countries.

            Bel-Ray will work closely with Husqvarna subsidiaries in their national and regional racing programs. Bel-Ray’s racing efforts date back to the origins of the powersports line with Kurt Kiefer, the son of company founder Bill Kiefer, traveling the world and supporting national and world championship racers at a time when few lubricant companies supported the pioneers of the sport. With this strong racing heritage, Bel-Ray has continued assisting riders, helping them achieve their racing goals.

            “Bel-Ray is proud to be a part of the re-vitalization of the Husqvarna name and brand,” said Bel-Ray Chief Operating Officer Jennifer Liquori. “Much like Bel-Ray, Husqvarna has a rich history as one of the legacy companies in motorcycling.  The synergy created by the Bel-Ray-Husqvarna partnership is founded on a common desire to provide great machines made to run better and longer by using a premium product.  We look forward to great things!”

            Stefan Pierer, KTM AG CEO said he very much welcomed the sponsorship partnership with Bel-Ray. “Both of our companies enjoy a high international profile and we need a strong partner for both production and racing support. Husqvarna and Bel-Ray are high-tech companies with a passion for racing and a strong heritage in top competition. Our shared passion and obvious synergies make this a very natural cooperation. We at Husqvarna very much look forward to big achievements together with Bel-Ray.”

For more information on Bel-Ray products for the mining, industrial and powersports industries, please visit www.belray.com or call (732) 938-2421.

*****************************************************************************************************************************

 

I have spoken to the chief Chemist formerly from "Royal Purple" many, many times. He now runs and operates "High Performance Lubricants". I have picked his brain too many times to count. He holds US Govt. Federal contracts as the sole lubricant supplier where I work as a welding Inspector. The US Border Patrol. We have exclusive formulations for our ATV's, Dirt bikes, side by sides and all other on and off road vehicles. Let me say these exclusive formula's have taken a great deal of time to get right for the best bang for the buck. These are oils that are not available to the General Public. All of them are Synthetic, engine oils, High Impact gear lubes, to transmission fluids. I would think he knows what he is talking about. We as end users of his products have spent years sending in samples of oil to independent research labs to test oil drained from our equipment for degradation. The results of these samples is very informative.

I could get all the free oil from work that I want. We remove 50 gallon barrels from the pump house every week after leaning them with a block of wood wedged under one side to get most of the oil out of the bottom of each drum. There is always a few gallons thrown out with each and every barrel, unless the Mechanics tip them upside down by hand and pour the remainder off into 1 gallon jugs. Most of the time we don't even bother.

I don't run HPL lubricants or engine oil either and we have plenty of science to back it up.

Edited by Tims1572
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What a mess!  I have a couple of bikes and have had dozens, including a 450EXC. 

I put a large metal pan under the bike, then my drain pan under the first drain bolt and pulled it.  Oil sprays and runs everywhere, including down the kickstand.  Fortunately I had the large pan.  Probably caught about 2/3 of it by grabbing the drain pan and holding it up in the sizzling hot spray.

Anyway, beyond the mess, the rest was as easy as expected.  I laid the bike over, resting the right handlebar on my bike stand to pre-fill the oil filter hole.  Dang this thing is light!

 

Has anyone devised a better way to reduce the messiness?

 

 

 

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