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Lowering a DRZ, lots of ways, this is my preferred.

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There are many ways to lower a DRZ...Lowering links, just sliding the fork tubes up in the triple clamps, internally lowering the shock and forks.

For Showa Damper rod forks and non High speed compression showa shock shod DRZ at hand...this is how we did it.

 

Customer asked for some lowering on a DRZ400S. Lots of lowering, for a short rider that will just be cruising fire roads and the like. 

Best way for this application and planed use was to internally lower the shock 1.75" Plus internally lower the forks 1.25" and slide the fork tubes up .75" in clamps.

Normally this is WAY lower than I would recommend,,, But based on the intended user and how she will use (how and where) this bike..... It will work out great.

 

Made .4375" spacer for shock from Nylatron GSM NYLON ROD 

10985982_1029154677107151_952520806068036500_n1.jpg
 

And 1.25" spacers from 7075 Aluminum bar for forks

lower spacer 1.jpg

lower spacer 2.jpg

lower spacer 3.jpg

12088016_1029153937107225_6518161919817566977_n1.jpg

1545836_1029153947107224_8042999858648465204_n1.jpg

12065602_1029153957107223_6261077410288142849_n1.jpg

Add the correct springs for rider weight, a little valving stack adjustment for the forks and shock, some new fluid and 175# dry nitrogen 

and we have a fresh, lowered DRZ ready for use.

1.25 DRZ lower.jpg

 

 

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About What did you charge for this?

Thanks

 

I haven't seen Erik here in a while.....send him a PM for immediate answer.

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I have installed the kouba lowering links (1.75) and raised the forks. I'm going to shave some foam out of my seat concepts saddle (which came with the bike). I'm 5'4" 120lbs. What can I do to the stock suspension to adjust for the changes from the lowering links?

If I don't like the ride with the links, I will save up for the suspension work but would love to get an idea of what it costs. Not new to bikes but new to dirt and planning on simple fire roads and dual track to start. I'd like the flexibility to learn more, if the suspension will allow it. Thanks

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I have installed the kouba lowering links (1.75) and raised the forks. I'm going to shave some foam out of my seat concepts saddle (which came with the bike). I'm 5'4" 120lbs. What can I do to the stock suspension to adjust for the changes from the lowering links?

If I don't like the ride with the links, I will save up for the suspension work but would love to get an idea of what it costs. Not new to bikes but new to dirt and planning on simple fire roads and dual track to start. I'd like the flexibility to learn more, if the suspension will allow it. Thanks

Don't forget to reset your sag , very important , with lowering links you need to reset .

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Yes, been watching my YouTubes on resetting sag. Will rebound and compression need adjusting as well? Front and rear?

And what's this I hear about "backing the blue nut all the way out" on the shock? Good idea?

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Yes, been watching my YouTubes on resetting sag. Will rebound and compression need adjusting as well? Front and rear?

And what's this I hear about "backing the blue nut all the way out" on the shock? Good idea?

rebound and compression is up to you to determine depending on where you ride , you can start with the bike manual setting , but sag setting is the most important , by setting sag the right way you also will  know if your shock is right for you . My rider sag is set to 3.5 inches and static sag to 3/4 inch . your forks should be raised the same distance as your seat lowering . read kouba recommendations. 

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rebound and compression is up to you to determine depending on where you ride , you can start with the bike manual setting , but sag setting is the most important , by setting sag the right way you also will  know if your shock is right for you . My rider sag is set to 3.5 inches and static sag to 3/4 inch . your forks should be raised the same distance as your seat lowering . read kouba recommendations.

Kouba says set sag at 3 3/4 IF for lowering purposes only. Should I try to set it instead with me and gear? Forks will need risers to get the the extra 1/2" to match the links. Should I try it as is first before getting risers? Worried about bottoming out. Thanks for the help.

Any thoughts on the blue shock bolt?

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no blue shock bolt on mine , unless it's the bolt on rear chock gas bottle , it has also a screw in middle , thats your high and low compression clickers , check manuel , yes you need  risers and bike is a lot more fun if you raise same distance as back . as for bottoming , there is always a compromise when you change things  ,it's not a problem for me but i lowerd 11/4 only ,same with forks . I'm no expert , everything i know is 85% from kouba link . you can also email him . set your sag with full gear and what ever you carry on bike .

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Can we please keep the technical discussion of lowering links, clickers and sag relevant to properly done internal lowering, which is what this thread is about? I.e. not clutter this thread with in-depth discussion of how to try to get links to work decently? It would be very beneficial to the community if we could keep this thread on-topic.

 

Lowering links increase the leverage of the wheel on the shock. This causes the already underdamped and uncontrolled rear to be even more underdamped and uncontrolled. You can't cure this with clickers, only band-aid it somewhat. Setting the sag is of course elementary, but compared to properly lowering and revalving you end up with seriously compromised handling. Just to put it into context with what Erik Marquez posted about originally.

 

Just because someone will sell you some lowering links doesn't mean they work well at all. Suspension is complex - but proper lowering is much more feasible than people think.

 

I really hope I don't step on anyone's toes here. I'd just really like it if we could discuss properly done lowering such as it is, here, in this thread. And discuss the specifics of lowering links and setting sag in another thread. It's fine to compare the results of the two but setting sag is off-topic, to be honest. Thanks!!

Edited by Anthon Berg
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Anthon- Whiteeyelashes re-activated this thread when he posted about price. Then it got off topic discussing lowering links. I agree this really is not the place to discuss lowering links.

Edited by Noble
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Anthon- Whiteeyelashes re-activated this thread when he posted about price. Then it got off topic discussing lowering links. I agree this really is not the place to discuss lowering links.

 

She............... :devil:

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Can we please keep the technical discussion of lowering links, clickers and sag relevant to properly done internal lowering, which is what this thread is about? I.e. not clutter this thread with in-depth discussion of how to try to get links to work decently? It would be very beneficial to the community if we could keep this thread on-topic.

 

Lowering links increase the leverage of the wheel on the shock. This causes the already underdamped and uncontrolled rear to be even more underdamped and uncontrolled. You can't cure this with clickers, only band-aid it somewhat. Setting the sag is of course elementary, but compared to properly lowering and revalving you end up with seriously compromised handling. Just to put it into context with what Erik Marquez posted about originally.

 

Just because someone will sell you some lowering links doesn't mean they work well at all. Suspension is complex - but proper lowering is much more feasible than people think.

 

I really hope I don't step on anyone's toes here. I'd just really like it if we could discuss properly done lowering such as it is, here, in this thread. And discuss the specifics of lowering links and setting sag in another thread. It's fine to compare the results of the two but setting sag is off-topic, to be honest. Thanks!!

Just trying to help , your absolutely right , links make rear underdamped and could become dangerous in agressive off road riding , specially if you don't reset your sag and lower front , nobody is trying to promote anything here .

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