2014 WR450 GYTR Mods w/ stock ECU?

Hi everyone.


So i have a 2014 WR450F. I bought the GYTR ecu, and as such replaced the throttle stop, removed the snorkle on the air box and the baffle in the end of the exhaust, the thing runs AMAZING.


Problem is gas mileage. With that new ecu she runs through fuel quick.


So i got to wondering, on those more leisurely rides where MPG's would be more important to get back home. Would it be OK if i threw back in the stock ecu? (given that she now breaths a lil better and has full throttle range?)


I just dont want to run too lean as thats BAAD!







Do you know what sort of mpg you are currently getting?

I have a 14 wr450, FMF Q4 slip-on, stock header, comp ecu w/short throttle screw. I also have the tuner, never ran the comp ecu at the shipped settings, but have tried many of the maps listed here.

On average, with the above mods, I get 70-90 miles per tank of fuel, depending on the map, and my throttle usage. Coming from an old kx250 2 stroke, am just giddy about my range now. If I do ever need more range per tank, I'll upgrade to one of the after market tanks.

I ride northern MN and some parts of MO, average running 3-4 gear, woods and some gravel roads. One of the maps I use is for slick mud and it really down grades the motor, falls really flat on the top end, and also gives me the best mpg. It's great for tight technical and let's me lug with out stalling out.

I would look really hard at the tuner that allows you to program in different maps.

My stock ecu WILL NEVER be put back in my bike. Just way to lean and just gives me the feeling the motor is crying out for help.

Btw, I have not adjusted the CO yet with the dealer programmer, but it's on the short list of items to take care of. Mine starts ok, hot or cold, but I do get the glowing header with a little idle time.

Lots of great posts on here regarding maps and dealer setting of the CO.

Congrats on the bike, I absolutely love mine and a best friend sold his DRZ400 after riding the WR. He couldn't have one soon enough.

with the stock map on the gytr ecu im lucky to get 30ish mi before reserve light turns on. 


Oh yeah dont get me wrong i love the WR450F... fuel injected green stickered 450 is SOOOOO NICE. but coming from my CRF250X that had a bigger tank and like half the cc's and i could pull 100+ mi on a tank.... when im down to 1/3rd of that it sucks haha. 

Edited by nd4spdbh

First off the bike is 18HP from the factory. With the mods you have the HP is up in the Hi 30's to low 40's. As such you need the fuel that it needs to run right. The better the tune the better the MPG will be. You don't starve  an endurance racer. If you tune for optimal horsepower and you the rider either use less throttle (good MPG) or are hard on the throttle (poor MPG). Give my vjxjim map a try people reported to me up to 70 mpg. 

looks like the vlxjim map ADDS fuel across the board. 


I am perfectly fine with the way power comes on etc with the stock GYTR ecu. 


But it sounds like it would be a bad idea to go to the stock ECU for mpg gains.... id be better off grabbing an IMS tank and calling it good. 

I'm wondering what the real world fuel range is compared from stock map to one of the normal ones.  I'm betting, at most you might get 2 miles less per tank (Same trail, same rider, similar speed).  That fuel light comes on way early too, so that's not really a go-by.  Me and my friends with all kinds of different bikes do one ride where we come out of the desert and fuel up at a gas station.  It's probably 35 miles, and we all put about the same amount of fuel (1.2 gallons).  I used to run a stock ECU for about the 1st year of having my WR.  When I got the Comp ECU and tried some different maps, there were negligible differences.  This is no scientific study or anything, but unless you are doing rides where  burning an extra 10 ounces might mean the difference of pushing your bike a mile ... I personally wouldn't sweat it.. but that's just me.

Usually when you get more power out of a bike you can open the throttle less and that would give you similar gas milage. However at some point the extra power makes your throttle hand twist that grip.

My map does add fuel and adds useable power. So you don't use as much throttle. But having more power also has the reverse effect of of wanting to use that power and sucking more gas. If you live in SoCal and ride in the heat the stock ECU base map is to lean. Trust me I use to build race bikes for a living. I have spent a lot of time working and testing the newer FI WR's. I'm one of the first few to work with the CO adjustments. And build maps for this bike. And what I can tell you is the base map was there to build off of. Its a starting point. Some people don't get there own Power Tuner and think the stock map is good because it woke the bike up so much when they first plunged it in. Well from were the WR was before the only place for it to go is up or better. If your bike hits hard off the bottom and or pops on decel (off gas) down a hill which I bet it does. It's running lean as i've seen with all WR's that are uncorked running the base map. The guys that run my map love it. But i'm not saying my my is the best. What i'm say it the base map is not the best choice. Try a few maps and see.

Vlxjim, do you mind posting up the map you are referring to again. I need decent performance, and good fuel economy. Thanks

By removing the throttle stop screw you lost the mpg. Before you could only open throttle 1/4 turn. Now you can twist it off! Ive played with all the diff maps. Very small changes. Biggest change came with gearing. Cc and rear sprocket. Still only high 30 per gallon on single track. 50 mpg dual sport. Carry siphon hose and hang out with the ktm. Honda guys if your going over 70 mi loop. I run 14 and 48 rear.

3.2 tank is pretty much the solution there bud

thanks for all the info guys.... now to find someone with the FI diagnostic tool and powertuner...


vlxjim, you live near ventura county down here in sunny so cal?

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