The Truth About Zinc & Motor Oil

[VortecCPI]

Interesting read here:  http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/zinc-in-motor-oil

[Chuck.]

Very interesting and fits with the advice I got from Megacycle, my local speed shop, and a friend who use to build race engines for a living. 

 

Thanks for posting.

[kwhetstine]

I think I need to read it twice to understand it all but thanks for sharing anyways lol 

[Oil Baron]

This is why I have been considering Maxima synthetics but it's probably overkill for my engines.

[Chuck.]

This is why I have been considering Maxima synthetics but it's probably overkill for my engines.

Maybe but a good synthetic like Redline or Motul 300V would provide better high temp protection when the going gets tough.

[Oil Baron]

Maybe but a good synthetic like Redline or Motul 300V would provide better high temp protection when the going gets tough.

In reply #14, this guy is saying:

 

http://www.ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1912.0

 

 

The Maxima Maxum 4 Extra is a PAO /Ester based formula of around 70/30 . Just enough ester to offset the seal shrinkage that would happen with PAO only and to aid with the miscability of the additive pack which is much like the Mobil bike oil .* The Maxima Ultra is made the other way . Around 60% Ester/40% PAO

[Chuck.]

Reading a few oil spec sheets will show that that not all said on the above link is correct;  ALL oils thin with increases in temperature, the syns at a slower rate than Dino oil. The API ratings are at 40C and 100C, some examples:

 

 

The best off the shelf lube oil is Motul 300V, see https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

But if you have a OEM cam than maybe Honda oil is OK. ?

[Oil Baron]

But if you have a OEM cam than maybe Honda oil is OK. ?

 

Probably.  And I suspect you're right about the 300V.

 

And as much as I loath overregulation,  any lubricant company (or testing body for that matter), can make any claim they want, unfortunately.  

 

Anyone could bottle green (or purple) corn oil and sell it as full synthetic motor oil and there's nobody to tell them otherwise.  Bottlers can also continuously change the formula, (which we know they do), without any indication.

 

Everything about motor(snake)oil is potentially hearsay.

 

All the more reason to change it often and use more of it.

[adnohguy]

IMO:

300v is a top shelf product that I suspect very few other products (brands) will equal or match its ability to protect for Extream heat and wear issues on most any 4stroke engine new or old.

"0" clutch operation issues as well as smooth shifting are its other main benefits.

Expensive yes, but you can use it as top off in your tow vehicle (wife's car, lawn mower, work truck, etc) after you drain it from your bike. Makes one feel better about the cost that way.

[VortecCPI]

More great data here:  http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

[Chuck.]

More great data here:  http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

 

Very good link about oil, I highly recommend it.

[VortecCPI]

Very good link about oil, I highly recommend it.

 

Than you Chuck!  Frank Nye's recommendation of Chevron Delo 400 also appears in the article.

[Chuck.]

But we still have a problem with the Fleet Service oils losing zinc & phosphorus because of the EPA. So if you have a high lift cam you should use a oil with added zinc and phosphorus, or at least a ester based synthetic MC oil  like Redline or Motul 300V which also have zinc/phosphorus.