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DLC Coating

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Assuming I'm testing identical sets of 2013 KYB PSF forks, one with DLC coating, one without.

Can you tell a difference on the track?  Is it that drastic?  Anyone have experience going from stock to DLC?

Is it worth it?  Thanks.

 

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I had ti coatings and noticed nothing honestly

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If nothing else, I guess your stanchions will be better protected against scratches etc.

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They still get beat up and they are harder to sand out

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Our recommendation to customers is only do it if you're after the appearance or a very small gain.  Many riders don't feel a difference at all.  The more sensitive riders do feel a difference, but nothing drastic.  Both dyno and track tests have shown that a finishing process, similar to a cross hatch on the lower tubes reduces the surface area and stiction more than the best coatings.  This is now something we offer on every revalve that goes through the shop without an additional fee.  The ultimate, if you have budget to throw around, is to do the Ultra Slick Treatment and then do a coating over the top.

 

While on the subject, it amazes me the amount of customers who call about coatings to cut down on stiction but are using junk seals or fluids.  First, use an OEM (or OEM quality) seal and a high quality suspension fluid.  Please? haha

 

Oh, and if you do want to get DLC coating, Race Tech does sell it.  You know, since I talked you into it and all (sarcasm!)

Edited by RT_Chris448
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Thanks for the replies, we'll hold off now.  I've seen a bunch of stuff on the SKF seal which claims a bunch of stuff including reducing stiction.  Anyone running them?

 

  • Reduces friction by virtually eliminating stick-slip - 20% over standard seals
  • Self-lubricating compound
  • Increased seal life - bench tested over 1 million cycles and 50 motocross hours with no maintenance required.
  • Compatible with a wide range of original equipment and after market oils
  • Design minimize contamination reaching the oil seal
  • Seal materiel made of NBR elastomer with lower friction characteristics
  • Wiper seal optional dual lip design for high contamination situations
  • Oil seal lip geometry designed specific to fit individual fork seals

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i use skf on mtb forks and mx forks.

I don't know that you can feel the difference.

 

i've polished my tubes on the lathe, didn't notice a thing

i also have uni air filter foam, i cut small strips of it, i pop the dust seal down wrap the foam around the fork, slide the dust seal over it and ADD enough fork oil to saturate the foam.  I think this helps friction on the dust seal and helps seal life, but i don't think you can really feel the reduction in friction.

 

 

how do you align your forks?
I align mine a little different,

i install the front axle, 

tighten the non brake side pinch bolts, tighten the axle bolt, loosen the non brake side pinch bolts, tighten the brake side pinch bolts

with the non brake side axle pinch bolts loose, i take the handle bars off, loosen the fork caps, and put a crate under the front wheel, the cartridges and springs pop up and out, and the front end sits bottomed out with the bushings the max distance from each other.  This ensures proper alignment.   I tighten the pinch bolts, pull the crate out and screw the forks back together.  I do this every time the front wheel is off. Its a PITA.   But its the only guarantee your getting max life out of your seals and bushings while also making sure you don't have any excess friction.

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I think they help but the latest orange ones for ktms are much more finicky than the green ones

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I think they help but the latest orange ones for ktms are much more finicky than the green ones

 

 

so maybe its a different compound?

i figured it was just a different color because ktm has to be different.

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Just the regular alignment method.  Whew, that is one involved method to align your forks  :jawdrop:

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Just get the Motion Pro tool and do it kinematically.

 

Or just measure the slight bit of offset from the end of the axle to the end of the lug once it's set perfect once, and repeat to that same spot once the axle is cranked down.  Depth gauge/caliper would work fine for this.

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The orange ones are made of natural rubber I have been told

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Just get the Motion Pro tool and do it kinematically.

 

Or just measure the slight bit of offset from the end of the axle to the end of the lug once it's set perfect once, and repeat to that same spot once the axle is cranked down.  Depth gauge/caliper would work fine for this.

 

i think the mp tool is kinda wack.

i guess you could do that,

with air forks, my method would take less time than measuring.

Edited by EnglertRacing

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Just the regular alignment method.  Whew, that is one involved method to align your forks  :jawdrop:

 

what pumping it up and down?

 

that's like not even half assed imo, more like quarter.

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what pumping it up and down?

 

that's like not even half assed imo, more like quarter.

 

Yep,  :doh:   I forgot, I did buy one of those fork alignment Motion Pro gizmos.

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The orange ones are made of natural rubber I have been told

Skf guys have told me the only difference is the colour ktm wanted orange seals

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Could be true as well ,I dint know for sure ,but there was many problems with the orange seals ,none with the green ?

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Did they change bushings or go to different spec tubes at the same time?  Newer bushings all around seem to suck.  12-15 hours max out of these things.  Less if you ride hard.

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Buy teflon spray, push down the dust scraper, fill them up with teflon and push back. Beats any surface treatment.

 

Make sure you first push down and clean the dust scrapers when washing the bike as usual. Just push them down and clean them using your regular high pressure washer. This you should do every time you wash the bike. Teflon bushings and dust scrapers will last for 50-100h if you do this properly.

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