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Trailer rot


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I posted a question over in ts and will do the same here, with some more info needed. When I bought my toyhauler 5 years ago the previous owner said there was a soft spot in the floor due to a broken floor joist. He said the trailer had spent all storage time inside. Well I believed him. He was wrong or lied. By the time I got to looking at it the floor was rotten. I took out what I could without removing the tub, vanity, or closet. I thought I sealed up the roof well enough. Turns out I was wrong. Now the floor is junk again. The walls feel soft as well. My biggest fear at this point is the walls and floor up front are toast. In order for me to fix it right I think I have to remove the entire bathroom and most the kitchen including interior and exterior walls. I am not sure this is worth it. Can anyone give me some advice. Two of my friend have had roof leaks, they called insurance and got the trailer totalled. Most people on ts thought this would not work for me. I can take picks if needed. Thanks.

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The way TT are built moisture is sealed inside. Breathing cooking heating showering all create moisture. I'm not sure where I read it but there is an article about how moisture and our expelled breath "creates" a bacteria that attacks wood, the siding helps promote the perfect environment. Fact or fiction ? But having tore down over 20 trailers I'm glad I never tried saving them. The wood "joists" that bolt to metal frames were all rotten around the bolts. Around windows entry door. Many around the fridge too. Some did not have roof leaks, but rotted from floor up. Mice and other creature ruined some, but ants are the most destructive. Some the siding had corroded brittle and small holes.

What ever you do moisture is BAD.

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The way TT are built moisture is sealed inside. Breathing cooking heating showering all create moisture. I'm not sure where I read it but there is an article about how moisture and our expelled breath "creates" a bacteria that attacks wood, the siding helps promote the perfect environment. Fact or fiction ? But having tore down over 20 trailers I'm glad I never tried saving them. The wood "joists" that bolt to metal frames were all rotten around the bolts. Around windows entry door. Many around the fridge too. Some did not have roof leaks, but rotted from floor up. Mice and other creature ruined some, but ants are the most destructive. Some the siding had corroded brittle and small holes.

What ever you do moisture is BAD.

Did you see my post on using my toyhauler Apliences in an enclosed trailer?
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I'm sorry I miss understood, I thought you meant an article on using appliances in a TT[emoji4] so your just asking if it will work?

Some of my experiences, ideas.

Reusing will save money but you'll need to have CT that has "studs" the same spacing as your TT/toyhauler was. The appliances usually vent to the outside and fit in between. If not you'll have to cut and brace. Not something I wanted to do. And it's more work than matching widths.

I've reused a couple of 12 volt light fixtures, but changed bulbs to LEDs. Reused the rail by my door, and a water pump. I had a 30 amp cord that the outer weather jacket squirrels chewed on and plug end had pulled out some. I cut it and used it inside my CT to run from power inlet to PD4045 power distribution box. Saved some money on wiring. I had plans for reusing a lot more stuff. But what fit and what looked good and worked with my Ideas wasn't a lot.

No plumbing lines worked- but 2 fittings- this was a big deal as I couldn't find new.

2- water tanks- leaked ,-after ordering a new one I found out 1 was repairable.

Wheels-tires- nothing fit as a spare.

Appliances - already cover that problem.

Bathroom - yep a one piece- no go!

I'm still trying to re use an awning. I'm refinishing some trim pieces to try around shower. Oh my cabinet doors and hardware was refinished modded and reused.

Time spent saving and redoing is probably twice as long as buying new. But - I have little money so why waste good stuff?

And I have a toyhauler camper that I did, just for me. Not fancy just usable and useful. You'll be able to use a lot more of your stuff. It's newer and it was already used in a toyhauler. Mine was from a few different old (70's) trailers.

Cheap tip- I bought some cheap DC 12v 16' string LED lights that stick on. And you can cut them shorter. Wired to a toggle stick them any where. I reordered this time with an adapter for 110/120 AC

I'd like a roof vent but my trailer just fits into my pole barn. Do roof vents and vent bathroom too. I went back and forth over doing any cooking inside. I bought a 2 burner but was given a "tailgater" out door grill. So I'm no longer cooking inside. I might get a small micro wave, but not just yet.

Many on TNTTT do not cook inside nor have bathrooms or shower's. All done outside. With the amount of people you have , maybe a small dehumidifier would be a good idea.

I've read that the upper and lower side vents that some CT's have bring dust. If yours has them cover them if you'll be on dirt roads.

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Basically I want my pooper, outside shower, 3 way fridge, sinks (bathroom and kitchen), a/c, microwave, and possibly water heater from my th to put in a ct. This would also include fresh, black, and gray tanks. This does sound like a lot of work. But I believe would be a well built trailer without wood studs.

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Basically I want my pooper, outside shower, 3 way fridge, sinks (bathroom and kitchen), a/c, microwave, and possibly water heater from my th to put in a ct. This would also include fresh, black, and gray tanks. This does sound like a lot of work. But I believe would be a well built trailer without wood studs.

Custom built cabinets (build your own?) would be the key to making this work. For the outside shower, stove vent and fridge venting, I don't see why you couldn't just cut the holes needed and build doors to fit. You'll need the floor to roof vent for the black water and pooper vents as well. I agree that steel/aluminum studs (include 3/4" or thicker flooring) is the key to a well built trailer. I'd also replace all fresh water plumbing with that flexible line that you can get fairly cheap now. Plan on insulating the floor from the bottom and protecting the insulation somehow.

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Your holding tanks need to fit too. Many different sizes are available. Because my floor joists are on 16's too my bathroom ( not completed yet) is a holding tank , toilet & shower pan. Only the toilet waste goes in holding tank. The tank sits on my CT floor. My drain/flush is tucked up as close to underside as I could with my tongue rail offering it some protection. My vent line isn't through the roof( again clearance issues with pole barn door) it is going to go to the existing upper wall vent. I have tried it and I think it will vent properly. My grey water will run on ground were allowed and into a portable RV holding tank. That I got today on sale locally [emoji8]

If your mattresses and cushions are in good shape save them. Foam and material isn't cheap! I had my upholstery fabric. But bought 2 cushion foams and a memory foam mattress and zippers for the cushions that totaled about 300$. I also got an air mattress just in case. Of what I don't know[emoji12].

Again if you haven't check out TNTT there is a CT conversion section that should be very helpful.

My hot water heater is a Triton instant outside LP heater. I have washing machine hoses that connect to hose bibs on the CT. Allowing hot water to sink and shower. But it also comes with a shower head and hose to be used outside. Some on the other forum have installed them inside.

Edited by Padilen
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  • 3 weeks later...

It is a shame but many travel trailersand motor homes are pure junk long term. As they go down the road they twist and flex thousands of times and slowly come apart. Leaks occur and cannot be stopped. Dry rot is also a factor.  Some cos build toy haulers with the cargo type trailers with metal stud framework and seem to be a little more sturdy long term. That would be my only choice.

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Our old toyhauler got hailed on. Not bad but the insurance company totalled it. If it weren't for the growing soft spot in the floor under the sink and fresh water tank, and the ant damage I would have kept it. Anyhow when we looked to replace we didn't want that issue again. It was 14 years old and probably had over 100K miles on it. We searched and found a replacement that won't rot, Rust or have bugs. Yes it was pricey but we keep things forever. We've had it for over a year and the equipment is not near the quality of our old Playmor, But we still are happy with it overall.

 

http://www.livinlite.com/toy-haulers.php

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I go to endure & HS races in a 6 X 12 enclosed, so I camp for just 1 night.  I don't want to mess with having to find a dump tank, so I use a portable camp toilet (Thetford, ~ $100) that dumps into a regular toilet at home.  For a shower, I use 1 of these:  http://www.fieldandstreamshop.com/p/zodi-zip-instant-hot-camp-shower/15zoduzpprtnstnthcac?camp=CSE:GooglePLA:15ZODUZPPRTNSTNTHCAC:14263014:Accessories&CAWELAID=120226720000021336&CAGPSPN=pla 

 

(this is just the 1st link I saw, you can get them cheaper & they have several different models).  I cook on a Coleman camping stove.  I cool it with a window unit A/C, & heat it with either an electric space heater or a Mr. Buddy propane heater.  This set-up won't impress your buddies, but it's easy & cheap, & weighs almost nothing.  YMMV.

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