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Battery problem

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Hello everybody!

Im a fellow 2005 drz400sm owner. My apologies for the topic i am going to ask about, it has probably been talked about a million times. 

So I've got a drz that i got this summer and rode without any problems up to now. My battery died one day, i got myself a trickle charger that gives 600mha and charged it full. The battery lasted about 4 days and then was flat again. 

I am now wondering whether it is the battery that is garbage and that it shows weakness now when the weather is getting colder (5 C or 41 fah in the mornings)  or there is something else wrong with the bike. 

Im aware of the topic, but since my English and electrical skills are not 100% I was hoping that one of you could guide me in the right direction.
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/541623-charging-system-diagnoses-plus-the-free-power-mod/

What i have tested so far is: 
1) When the bike wont start on the battery any more and i take it off the bike it shows 12,2 v with the multimeter
2) When charged full it shows 13.3 v

3) After one h of disconnecting the charger battery was at 12,8 v after 2h 12,7 v
4) Now battery on the bike, ignition off - 12,7

5) Ignition/lights on, engine OFF 12,5 but its dropping 
6) Engine/lights ON - 13.5
7) Engine being revved the voltage stays the same 13,5

8) I have pulled the rectifier from the bike and it seems to work as it should - current flows only in one direction.
9) Disconnected the stator from the rectifier and got 30v AC on idle, but volts grew rapidly when throttle was applied
 

If the stator is giving out electricity it seems to me just that the battery has gone bad? Based upon this information what are your thoughts?

 

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The battery does not sound bad to me. I would work on getting that charge volts up. 13.5v is too low. Have you done that free power mod yet?

Mine was at 13.4v charging when I got my bike, I did the free power mod. and now it charges at 14.0v Now I never have a problem with the battery going dead, where as the previous owner always left it on a trickle charger.

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Battery is marginal.  If not actually bad, it is on its way out.  But I agree that may not be the current problem.  Your charging system works but I think you are loosing power between the regulator/rectifier and the battery. The RR senses voltage internally. So if it senses 14.5 volts it starts to cut power even if the battery is somewhat less than what he RR thinks it is.  The Free Power mod should help bring up the charge voltage at the battery.

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Alright, ill look into the free power mod.

But how to explain the fact that I used the bike for 4 months daily without problems?

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 Electrical conections can deteriorate over time, as can batteries, Work on getting that charging volts up to 14.0v min. Check all the connections  stator. RR, battery, while doing the free power mod.

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So today i went to check how i should install the free power mod and to my surprise i found that i already have one - at least i think so. Felt a little stupid at first, but hey.... guess i don't have to do it myself now :rolleyes: 

What i found interesting though was that it was not connected. It fits the harness coming from the rectifier snug, and i tested with the multimeter connector coming from the battery has power in it. Couldn't start the bike up with it being connected because surprise surprise - the battery was dead. Will report if i have extra V going to the battery when it is charged. 
 
I took some pictures, could you please confirm it is what i think it is?
 12212204_991039427627490_975082865_n.jpg12208218_991039424294157_277778007_n.jpg
12200494_991039430960823_1710105023_n.jp

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Confirmed that what I found was actually a free power mod installed by the previous owner.  :facepalm:

However it did not boost the charge that much, from 13.5 it rose to 13.6. However my battery was already half empty, will try it again in the morning.

Does this mean that I have a current leakage somewhere? Or is it still the battery that is bad? Also if I order a new battery can I do the first charge with my 600mha trickle charger?

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Confirmed that what I found was actually a free power mod installed by the previous owner.  :facepalm:

However it did not boost the charge that much, from 13.5 it rose to 13.6. However my battery was already half empty, will try it again in the morning.

Does this mean that I have a current leakage somewhere? Or is it still the battery that is bad? Also if I order a new battery can I do the first charge with my 600mha trickle charger?

 

Yes you can use that trickle charger, if fact you don't want to use much more amps at any time on these little battery's. Battery could be bad, but I still think your losing continuity somewhere along the line.  I would do voltage drop tests on the whole circuits from RR to battery pos. and neg.   With bike running, high beam on, put your voltmeter leads between the red coming out of the RR and pos. terminal of the bat. Any more than about .2v is too much voltage drop, your losing power in a connector or corroded wire. Do the same on the neg. side, black wire to bat. neg.

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You have kinda sorta Free Power.  I see what looks like a charger pigtail attached to the battery and the RR plugs into that.  I also see a in-line fuse but can't tell what it is for.  You are still charging thru a connector, probably 18 gage wires and probably a fuse.  True Free Power corrects all of that - RR direct to the battery with 14 gage marine quality wire and no fuse.

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Kinda, sorta is right. Testing the system with a full battery now my "free power mod" still showed a charge rate of 13.6 v, however with the original system it was 13.8v this time. So the system i have with the other connector and the fuse in between is putting out less charge voltage than the original system, no wonder it was disconnected.

Also did the voltage drop test as bucket list described and the results are 0.09V difference from red cable and 0.15V from the black, so its seems to be in spec. 
 

Is it the battery then? Anything else i can test?

Edited by AMS2015

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I still think you will see better voltage at the battery if you do a proper Free Power mod.  Even though the battery voltage falls below 12.8 after a charge, it should continue to work if the motorcycle charging system is up to spec.  A new battery is in your future but the existing one should not go dead in 4 days of normal motorcycle operation if the charging system is working.

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Kinda, sorta is right. Testing the system with a full battery now my "free power mod" still showed a charge rate of 13.6 v, however with the original system it was 13.8v this time. So the system i have with the other connector and the fuse in between is putting out less charge voltage than the original system, no wonder it was disconnected.

Also did the voltage drop test as bucket list described and the results are 0.09V difference from red cable and 0.15V from the black, so its seems to be in spec. 

 

Is it the battery then? Anything else i can test?

 

Ya that's tuff one, with those voltage drop reading there shouldn't be a problem, the neg. at 0.15v is a little much, but as Noble says I'd still do a proper free power mod. with 14 gauge wire from RR right to battery, both pos. and neg.

 

You could do the service manual stator tests to make sure there's enough available volts to be rectified/regulated properly and the reg. could be a little off, no way of testing with out just replacing it.

 

My experience with that charging volts is the PO of my bike at 13.5v , had to keep a battery tender on it to keep the battery from going dead every week (it was a daily driver) He even tried a new battery with the same results.

Now since I bought the bike and did the free power mod. (now up to 14.0v)  both his old battery that he gave me and the newer battery stay fully charged all the time, if I ride it 4 times a week or let it sit for two weeks. I've never had to put a charger on either batteries.

 

Hope you get it sorted.

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