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Front brakes toast after 500 miles O.o

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This cant be normal after just 500 miles of street riding...

 

20151104_203656.jpg

 

 

Galfer Sintered pads, installed new with a new rotor only 500 miles ago. All street riding, nothing hardcore.

 

Had to ride home on metal to metal. Time for a new rotor as well now, the Warp9 floater is buggered as well.

Any ideas what could cause them to wear so fast? Read that these pads lasted quite well... 

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Possible bonding issues. Pads got hot and the friction material fell off? Defective glue? I would also check the caliper to see if it is fully disengaging after it is applied. Possible causes of hanging breaks are stuck slides, deteriorated break line (acting like a check valve) or master cyl not being able to go to the resting position (fluid heats up and expands but return port is covered so brakes get tighter (adjustable perch or lever with no clearance). If the brakes were dragging on a DRZ I'd think it would be obvious with the drag. I'm going with defective bonding agent.

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The one thing that would cause that in such a short time , is constant pressure in the system , AKA the brakes were dragging . Check your caliper for blockages or sticking and do the same for the master cylinder . For some reason the pads are not moving back in the caliper and will/have just wear away untill that happens . greg

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Well, its dragging.  :thumbsdn:

 

Caliper and master just rebuilt 500 miles ago

New Galfer braided lines at the same time.

Caliper pins are in great shape and lubed.

Lever is stock and adjusted properly.

 

Going to check the wheel alignment and spacers tomorrow.

 

Thinking since its about the end of the season I'll just ditch the caliper and master and go with better parts. I'd like a bit more front brake anyway, might as well do it now. I like the 4 piston Brembo caliper I've seen on SM's but havent been able to find a bracket for the "E"/"S". Any leads?

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Bike is sitting in the garage, completely cool, with the front wheel lifted in the air. I took off the master cap and rubber doo-dad. I pressed the caliper pistons in a bit to get the wheel to spin free. This then left the brake pedal needing to be pumped a bit to get pressure at the rotor. Then I spin the wheel by hand and it is grinding pretty good. I spin the wheel and let it go and it will grind stop before it makes a full revolution.  :thumbsdn:

 

Did some searching on the site and found another person who had similar issue. Rebuilt the master and caliper and still had drag. Thinking back on it, there was some slight corrosion I had clean out of the piston seal seats before putting the new seals in the caliper.

 

It is quite possible there is more corrosion built up in the stock caliper/master. Being a 2001 E, I think almost 15 years was a good life for these parts, and I'm looking at either ebay for a much newer stock caliper/master combo... Or throwing some currency at an aftermarket caliper & master... But after looking at what is available for the E/S, 600 bones+ for a front brake  :naughty:. Stock parts it may very well get!

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Years ago, I put a pair of handguards on my mistresses DR200, "in the field". It wasn't my best work, and the brake lever was just touching the guard. Even though she didn't notice any drag, it was dragging. A few weeks later, her brake pads looked like yours

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Any tiny bubble of trapped air will expand when hot, but its usually pretty noticable that a brake is binding on.

this

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look like the pad material broke off the plate to me

I agree,, assume heat caused by binding caused pad material to separate from plate,

       Only time I ever had grief was extremely cheap pads, (which worked fine), but 1 wet/muddy trail ride and they were destroyed.

            I reckon they were either bio-degradable or water soluble!

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I have a 1000 miles on my new EBC pads and they have plenty of life life, they even have 2 track days on them.

 

Contact the manufacture, they may replace them free.

Edited by rraiderr
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Thinking back on it, there was some slight corrosion I had clean out of the piston seal seats before putting the new seals in the caliper.

I have seen this more than once, new seals and the caliper still sticks. The corrosion in the seal seat groove just raises the seal enough to cause it to drag. Usually a dental pick will remove the corrosion and you can reuse the seals since they are new.

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Contact the manufacture, they may replace them free.

 

I couldn't do that.

 

If I believed that their product was at fault I would not hesitate to contact them, but I believed from the gate that there was an issue mechanically... just couldn't wrap my brain around what it was, as I didn't notice any drag.

 

Even now, after lifting the wheel and seeing first hand that the brake drags, when I put the bike back on the ground and roll it the only real stand out is the metal on metal noise. I'd bet that with friction material on the pads it would be much harder to notice. Add to that the engine running with its normal vibration, as well as the MRD shorty at full roar... I can see how I may have missed the pads dragging for far longer than when I noticed there was a problem.

 

I'm going to pull the system apart and go over it with a fine tooth comb and see where that leads me.

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Air in brake lines will not cause drag. Air causes a spongy feeling because the air has to compress before moving the piston during braking. Any pressure from expansion of fluid or air in a neutral lever position should return freely to the master resivor. If heat and expansion causes binding the resivor is overfilled or fluid path is blocked. To test if it's the caliper: get it to drag then open a bleeder screw if the dragging goes away the look at hoses and master. If it continues to drag it's a caliper issue.

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Air in brake lines will not cause drag. Air causes a spongy feeling because the air has to compress before moving the piston during braking. Any pressure from expansion of fluid or air in a neutral lever position should return freely to the master resivor. If heat and expansion causes binding the resivor is overfilled or fluid path is blocked. To test if it's the caliper: get it to drag then open a bleeder screw if the dragging goes away the look at hoses and master. If it continues to drag it's a caliper issue.

:thumbsup:

 

Sitting in the garage surfing the TT, so since the bike is right here I just popped the bleeder open and no change in drag at all. I'll focus on the caliper after work tomorrow.

 

I'll have to grab a short video, but... Grabbing the caliper while it is torqued to the bike, how much "wiggle" should there be between the main body and where it rides on the slides?

 

Not new to mechanics, but def a noob to the motorcycle application of them. I have no idea what is "normal" here, and the little things here and there that are slightly different are just different enough for me to have to question what seems correct.

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Ive had one set of front pads 'delaminate'.. the pads cams off the metal backing holding them in place, I was quick to notice. Maybe yours fell out. 

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Ive had one set of front pads 'delaminate'.. the pads cams off the metal backing holding them in place, I was quick to notice. Maybe yours fell out. 

 

 

there is pad material still on the metal plates, in the OP's picture. anyone that ejected a full 1/4" of pad material would immediately know it, from the clank, and the resulting lack of ANY braking force the next time they tried to use it. 

 

i'm sticking with mechanical issue and pads dragging. an air bubble, water, or failed brake line will cause this. 

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That looks like excessive play to me. The caliper should be free to move in and out (perpendicular to the rotor) shouldn't move much at all radially. I would take the caliper and mounting brackets off the bike and inspect for wear, especially around the pins.

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I'm about to give up as I'm at a loss here yet again.

 

Caliper is perfect inside. No corrosion, no junk. New pistons, new seals. Master looks the same, and is also rebuilt. She's still dragging on the rotor fairly good. The pistons are not stuck either. Can pump them all the way out, then press them each all the way back in with a thumb. Rotor is not warped, alignment is spot on, and the rotor is centered in the caliper.

 

No idea what to do now, other then replace the caliper and call it a mystery. :thumbsdn: This also seems to be the result the other TT member came to in a thread I dug up on here that was exactly the issue I have.

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