deer4011 Posted November 6, 2015 Today I bought a 2001 rm250 and want to go through all the fluids and such. Here come the questions. The clutch oil is grey and from my previous racing experience it needs to be changed and possibly the plates if theyre fried. I used to have a honda cr250r and it took like formula 5 ford atf or something but im wondering if the suzuki takes the same? Same question with the coolant. Also it has a FMF fatty that doesnt really look like its meant for it, both the mounts are broken and it just looks weird. are there numbers anywhere where i can check what bike it goes on? Whats the absolute best/cheapest website to get parts from? I think thats it. Its seems like a pretty good bike so far. Its got a keihin vforce reeds plus the mentioned fatty and powercore slip on. Any input greatly appreciated and if any one is from lubbock i need some one to ride with! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldMechanik My Rides (3) Posted November 6, 2015 Change the oil to a good wet clutch specific oil. You may have to change it a couple times to get it cleaned out. Inspect the drives and frictions AND the pressure plate for wear. The basket is no doubt shot as RM clutches are a weak link. The coolant can be anything you get at an auto parts store. I use store brand premixed. If the pipe mounts are broken you can have them welded back in place, if the pipe is destroyed or doesn't fit check eBay. RockyMountainATV or MotorcycleSuperstore, or MOTOSPORT are good online suppliers, but this site has a store with a member discount. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deer4011 Posted November 7, 2015 Yea the basket is done but the frictions and steels look good surprisingly good. im gonna b12 the insides. What type of oil though? from research people are using 10w40...the pipe mounts are broken yea but it just looks like its rubbing on everything. radiator, kick lever, front fender, etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldMechanik My Rides (3) Posted November 10, 2015 10/40 will work, don't use energy efficient. I prefer ATF Dextron because it's cheap and is designed for gears and wet clutches. This is good stuff too: http://www.motosport.com/belray-gear-saver-transmission-oil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deer4011 Posted November 10, 2015 So i got a new weisco basket, fibers and steels look brand new changed the oil with recomended amount of castrol 4t 10w40 and the clutch grabs like a mother. to the point where it wont idle in gear and i cant start it in gear without throttle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
noaht4 Posted November 11, 2015 Try shell rotella 15w 40 it made huge difference on my rm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldMechanik My Rides (3) Posted November 11, 2015 Try shell rotella 15w 40 it made huge difference on my rm EVERYBODY says use Rotella.....what were you using and what difference did you notice? I've used Dextron and Gearsaver as well as motor oil....my KXs and KTM liked ATF just fine. My RM on the other hand, isn't a happy clutch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldMechanik My Rides (3) Posted November 11, 2015 So i got a new weisco basket, fibers and steels look brand new changed the oil with recomended amount of castrol 4t 10w40 and the clutch grabs like a mother. to the point where it wont idle in gear and i cant start it in gear without throttle. Sounds like it needs adjusted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deer4011 Posted November 12, 2015 Rode the bike around today a bit and it doesn't grab as much anymore. I guess the oil had to get spread out as I let the case drain for like 3 hours. I've got some rotella sitting around from changing the oil in my f250 I'll put that in it when I change it again and see what the difference is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Excitable My Rides (6) Posted November 12, 2015 you did soak the fiber plates with oil overnight before installing right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
noaht4 Posted November 12, 2015 EVERYBODY says use Rotella.....what were you using and what difference did you notice? I've used Dextron and Gearsaver as well as motor oil....my KXs and KTM liked ATF just fine. My RM on the other hand, isn't a happy clutch. I have been using atf type f on my rm and then the clutch started getting worse, when youd put it in gear itd stall, I filed out the grooves in the clutch basket but there wasnt very many but it still did it. Then I tryed rotella and it worked great 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldMechanik My Rides (3) Posted November 13, 2015 I'll give it a try once....maybe with the 10/30. I'm tired of the lurching. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zig06 Posted November 13, 2015 EVERYBODY says use Rotella.....what were you using and what difference did you notice? I've used Dextron and Gearsaver as well as motor oil....my KXs and KTM liked ATF just fine. My RM on the other hand, isn't a happy clutch. Well, not "everyone" recommends Rotella ... at least not me. Here's my oil recommendations: For trail riders, this oil was engineered to give a smooth engagement. This should also help to reduce or eliminate any lurching: For MX racers, this oil was engineered to "grab" hard: And FWIW, this is a very good premix oil: 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deer4011 Posted November 16, 2015 I put rotella in it today and it works so much better than the 10w40 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
racertodd Posted November 16, 2015 Rotella is my choice also Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deer4011 Posted November 17, 2015 Update on the FMF Fatty. After emailing FMF they confirmed that it was the right pipe for the bike so I took it upon myself to bend it back into shape. It took a couple hours but I've gotten it almost to where it needs to be. The PO must of dumped the bike and bend the C bend back like 2 inches and messed up the entire fitment. Anyways using some heat and some pipes to bend it back, I've managed to get it to fit way better than before. The pipes not very pretty but I'm on a college budget and it will work till I can manage to get a new one. At least no more exhaust leaks. Ive also noticed that my transmission leaks a bit... Can I change that big gasket for the transmission cover with the motor still in the bike? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OldMechanik My Rides (3) Posted November 17, 2015 The side clutch housing will come off....take the brake pedal off and you'll get it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deer4011 Posted November 18, 2015 Cool thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites