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I just rejetted my bike, still have one problem

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So I just re-jetted my 2004 CRF230f and It runs so much better.

 

I put a:

120 Main

45 Pilot

Needle on 4th slot

Fuel screw 1.5 turns out

 

It does not over heat anymore

It cold starts with full choke

Once it is warm (Warms up fast) It starts super easy

It idles without any issues (Always had issues Idling before re-jetting)

If the fuel screw is fully closed it wont idle

 

What I am saying is I think the jetting was successful and fixed a lot of issues. Only thing is It makes a quite popping noise when I am decelerating.

 

 

 

*This only happened ONE time, but when I was giving it gas it made a funny noise and the throttle lost all its tension for a second*

 

What would cause these issues?

 

 

Thanks!

 

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some popping is normal for a thumper running an open exhaust.

set the screw for fastest idle , popping is not an accurate method to choose pilot jet

Edited by 30x26
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some popping is normal for a thumper running an open exhaust.

set the screw for fastest idle , popping is not an accurate method to choose pilot jet

 

Open exhaust has nothing to do with it.  My CR230 popped like mad when I bought it brand new and it was bone stock even with the exhaust and intake completely corked up.  A bit of burbling or gurgling, if you will, is okay but popping is not.

Perhaps we are thinking of "popping" very differently.  When I think of popping I think loud "pop" sounds, not the typical burbling or gurgling any thumper (or any bike) makes when decelerating.  Popping on deceleration is a great way to know if your idle mixture is close to being right.  However, I do agree that it is not an accurate way to determine slow jet size, which is why I stated idle mixture must be set first.

Example:  I set the idle mixture screw on the SRX 600 when it was hot outside and I set on the lean side.  Now that it is cold it started popping on deceleration and developed an uneven idle.  A half turn out fixed it right up.  Solid steady idle and no more popping.  The big 600 single is very sensitive to air temperature changes.

 

The 1983 XR600L popped on deceleration because it was too lean as did the SRX when it was stock.  In both cases the slow jets were increased in size and the issue went away.  Popping on deceleration due to lean mixture is obnoxious and unnecessary.

Edited by VortecCPI

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Alright thanks, I am going to run with the 45 for a day or so, and check the spark plug for the results. Because the popping is not crazy and only happens when deceleration at high RPM, and their quite popping noises. (Will still try the 48 pilot to see if that is better)

 

But the other issue is when I am giving it gas, the carb area makes a quite popping noise, as if its taking in a lot of air all the sudden (Doesn't happen every time) What could be causing this?

 

Thanks!

Edited by -CRF-

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Checking the plug is useless unless you do a WOT run and Plug Chop so don't bother.

 

Check your intake manifold for leaks.  Make sure the carb is seated all the way into the manifold.

 

A properly-jetted CRF230 will take full throttle in third gear at 2,400 RPM so you should not be experiencing any such issues.

 

As always I suggest you check float level externally and check/set valve lash.  A tight valve can cause popping and is not good.

 

Again the way to determine proper slow jet size is to set the idle mixture screw for fastest idle.  If less than 1/2 turn out you need a smaller slow jet.  If more than 2-1/2 turns out you need a bigger slow jet.  The 45 is typically correct at sea level but some 230s need a 48.

Edited by VortecCPI

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What is a valve lash, Is that in the carb?

 

I Figured out what is was.

Edited by -CRF-
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So I started again on it, I can get to highest idle with less then 2 turns out (1.75 out) on the fuel screw with 120 main and 45 pilot. Do I still need the 48 pilot?

 

It still has silent pops on deceleration, but it pops from decelerating at higher RPMs (Neutral/1st gear)

 

I have not had much testing on anything over 2nd gear yet because I have not gone riding yet.
 

Right now, it takes about 2 minutes to warm up, and it idles like a dream. Just the decelerating popping is the only issue I can notice.

 

I am going to try the 48 once it gets here, but since its under 2.5 turns out could that not be the problem?

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So I started again on it, I can get to highest idle with less then 2 turns out (1.75 out) on the fuel screw with 120 main and 45 pilot. Do I still need the 48 pilot?

 

you do not need a 48.   45 is perfect

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The 45 sounds right to me.  Check for exhaust leaks.

 

Ok thanks!

I will check that later, even if that is the issue, I am getting a new exhaust soon (Dr. D NS-4 Complete Exhaust) will my current jetting settings support this new exhaust?

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Ok thanks!

I will check that later, even if that is the issue, I am getting a new exhaust soon (Dr. D NS-4 Complete Exhaust) will my current jetting settings support this new exhaust?

 

You need to contact DRD for proper jetting.  Some exhaust systems, like mine, require a smaller main jet.

 

If that DRD thing is anywhere near the $400 mark I highly suggest you have a good look at Frank Nye's Outlaw system.  It is a true reverse cone megaphone system with stepped head pipe and 100% stainless steel construction.  Two pounds lighter than the stock system and 96 dB quiet.  Oh...  And it actually works.

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1075215-engines-only-outlaw-systems/?p=12588390

Edited by VortecCPI

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