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How To Test Crank Sensor?

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I am looking for some guidance on how to check the crank sensor.  The motor is on a 2015 Husky FE501S.  I have a link posted in the Husky section but reaching out for more help.  Here's the story…. I took the bike from central TX to CO for a single-track trip.  Bike adjusted to altitude and ran great. Came back to TX, washed it, it fell over (adding that detail just in case, but i don't think it did any damage), and now the bike has a hard time starting and will barely run.  When it fires up, it will rev a little high, then chug and pop and then dies.  Seems like it's lean or has a timing issue.  I'm leaning towards a blocked injector, computer still thinks it's at high altitude so it's running lean, or a bad sensor somewhere.

 

I've checked electrical connections, checked voltage at battery, changed fuel filter, drained and refilled with fresh gas, disconnected battery in hopes of resetting air/fuel mixture, checked for water instrusion at top connectors, checked TPS for looseness.  It's also not flashing any "FI" codes on the dash.

 

 Has anyone had a similar issue?  Is it safe to remove the crank sensor and measure voltage or ohm it out?  What should the voltage read at the crank sensor?  Any suggestion greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance!

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1159666-15-fe501s-running-rough/

IMG_0483.JPG

Edited by JFoVStar650

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That's not a crank sensor, its the ignition pulsar coil.

 

I can not find an ohm value in the manual, maybe call a dealer mechanic

Edited by Spud786
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That's not a crank sensor, its the ignition pulsar coil.

 

I can not find an ohm value in the manual, maybe call a dealer mechanic

 

Thanks for the clarification!  Most of this is new to me..  

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Thanks for the clarification!  Most of this is new to me..  

I think the value is supposed to be 100 ohms +-20  between red and green wire 

 

 

Id check it cold and then hot

Edited by Spud786

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Ordered the Motion Pro FI cleaner tool.  Maybe, even though the fuel filter was clean, something got in there.  I didn't see a good way to check the resistance on the pulsar coil, as I wanted keep everything seals and not probe into the wires.  Could i measure this resistance on the top part of the pulsar harness?

 

Any other suggestions of what may be going on?

Edited by JFoVStar650

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Ordered the Motion Pro FI cleaner tool.  Maybe, even thought the fuel filter was clean, something got in there.  I didn't see a good way to check the resistance on the pulsar coil, as I wanted keep everything seals and not probe into the wires.  Could i measure this resistance on the top part of the pulsar harness?

 

Any other suggestions of what may be going on?

There should be a connection on the way to the ecu to check resistance

Edited by Spud786

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Checked it. 109 ohms

Sounds in spec to me, only other thing is to check it hot or heat it up with a heat gun, to see if it goes crazy.

 

since you start it cold, and it immediately dies shortly, I suspect you'll not find your issue there, but doesn't hurt to check.

Edited by Spud786

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Turned out to be a bad mapping/tuning job from the original dealer.  Had it re-mapped and tuned and she's good.  Don't know how or why it changed, but somehow the computer reset back to stock tune, which wasn't working with full exhaust and intake mod.

 

Thanks for all the pointers!  If nothing else I learned my way through the bike a little more!

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Did your original re mapping ever work in texas with the pipe and intake mod?

Edited by Spud786

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Yes it did.  It ran great after getting it back from "Dealer A", who re-mapped it and put the EU tune on it after the exhaust and intake mod.  Went to ride single-track in the mountains and it adjusted to altitude no problem.  Returned home to TX, gave her a wash, it fell over, and wouldn't run until I took it to Munn Racing where they tuned and mapped it.

 

Runs great now. 

Edited by JFoVStar650
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