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8 minutes ago, Sierra_rider said:

The power meter is the last thing on my list. My bike has the mechanical Ultegra 6800, which still works fantastic. Climbing is everything around here, so I opted for the medium length derailleur cage with a 11-32 cassette and a compact front. Being able to sit and spin on a double-digit grade was a game changer for me. I still stand a lot on the steeper climbs, but it's nice to have options.

The biggest thing about wheels for me, was getting something that was strong/stiff, yet not overly heavy. I've had issues with flex on the rear aluminum wheels before. Even just standing, riding tempo, my previous wheels were terrible for flex and creaking. I went with the "Clydesdale" build on these wheels, even though I'm not a "Clydesdale." They are very quiet on the climbs now and the aero benefits are an added bonus.

My current stead is rocking older 5000 series, i think, Tiagra. 2011 model. Compact setup, 50/34 & 12-25 iirc. 
Which is great gearing for the Missouri region, IMO. I don't know that I would change that ratio much if going to a newer groupset. 

But the stock wheels on this bike might as well be wet pasta for lateral rigidity. They will flex all over the place with any effort, and I don't frankly think im all that powerful of a rider (but maybe i am?). Now, not that is really all that surprising that wheels, from 8 years ago, have never been trued, and came on a middle of the road frame, are crap. Most of the climbing we do here is either short, snappy climbs that last under 1 minute, or just minor elevation change. We don't really get to the climbing like people in the mountains do.

20190413_113913.jpg

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22 minutes ago, intimdatr said:

My current stead is rocking older 5000 series, i think, Tiagra. 2011 model. Compact setup, 50/34 & 12-25 iirc. 
Which is great gearing for the Missouri region, IMO. I don't know that I would change that ratio much if going to a newer groupset. 

But the stock wheels on this bike might as well be wet pasta for lateral rigidity. They will flex all over the place with any effort, and I don't frankly think im all that powerful of a rider (but maybe i am?). Now, not that is really all that surprising that wheels, from 8 years ago, have never been trued, and came on a middle of the road frame, are crap. Most of the climbing we do here is either short, snappy climbs that last under 1 minute, or just minor elevation change. We don't really get to the climbing like people in the mountains do.

20190413_113913.jpg

I have the same year Allez (mine's a triple though), and I've changed my mind... In your case, I definitely recommend new wheels. That's one major thing I can feel between my bikes; my Tarmac with carbon wheels accelerates significantly faster than my Allez with alloys. And a huge amount of weight is in the wheels. Nearly 800g heavier and it's all rotational weight.

But at the same time, my Allez is worth no more than $200, so I personally wouldn't ever spend $1k in wheels on it.

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On 6/5/2019 at 9:18 AM, Sierra_rider said:

The power meter is the last thing on my list.

 I went with the "Clydesdale" build on these wheels, even though I'm not a "Clydesdale."

I hope to see some more options for meters in the next few years, definitely a great training tool.

The burly build is pretty common for non clyde MTB'er's too, never have to worry about busting the light stuff. 

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Thinking about buying a new cassette...

Anybody have experience with Sram? Their 11-32 has (IMO) more favorable gearing with a 15-17t jump compared to Shimano which has a 14-16t jump.

My current Shimano 11-28 cassette has a 15-17t jump, so for cruising on the flats I wouldn't notice a huge difference and the climbs would be much more tolerable.

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Their stuff is good. But if you want less variation gear to gear, get an 11-25 cassette. 32 is practically a mountain bike cassette and the jumps are too big for a road bike IMHO. If you really need lower gearing, go to compact chainrings.

 

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15 minutes ago, Tahoe Gator said:

Their stuff is good. But if you want less variation gear to gear, get an 11-25 cassette. 32 is practically a mountain bike cassette and the jumps are too big for a road bike IMHO. If you really need lower gearing, go to compact chainrings.

 

Not looking for less variation, just trying to find a happy medium between climbing and riding the flats. I'm also going to focus on climbing this season. 

The Sram 11-32 and Shimamo 11-28 are identical from 11t to 17t, and I spend most of my time between the 15 and 17 cogs. I figured if I want to make the lower gears smoother, I can just change to the small ring sooner.

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Not looking for less variation, just trying to find a happy medium between climbing and riding the flats. I'm also going to focus on climbing this season. 
The Sram 11-32 and Shimamo 11-28 are identical from 11t to 17t, and I spend most of my time between the 15 and 17 cogs. I figured if I want to make the lower gears smoother, I can just change to the small ring sooner.


ok. still suggest 11-25

32 teeth cassettes are for hybrid bikes.

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50/34 + 11-32 default_thumbsup.gif&key=b21c8c90033c61429dce5bff80b3142d4a533b31b825d95854790df6c85d3980 default_devil.gif&key=48bfd6e34e3197b8d0298b3c7fba4262cee2858ad8ec2a9191ee657d42e84a20  

 

 

spinning 100 cadence at less than 200 watts in the granny = slow

 

53/39 + 11-25

50/34 + 11-25

50/34 + 11-32 ?

 

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1 hour ago, Tahoe Gator said:

 

spinning 100 cadence at less than 200 watts in the granny = slow

 

53/39 + 11-25 emoji123.png

50/34 + 11-25 emoji52.png

50/34 + 11-32 ?

 

Meh...some of the local roads have extended section of double digit grades. I could muscle up the climb with a 25t, I did it for a couple years with a standard crank, but I can ride just as fast while turning a comfortable cadence with the 28 or 32. 

I'm in the top 5% of the Strava times even on the most popular times, I don't think I'm too slow...

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1 hour ago, intimdatr said:

Speaking of Strava, those with power meters, do you find Strava's guesstimation of avg power output to be close.  

I'd say it over estimates by around 20%

I found a section I've ridden a few times. Strava estimated around 230-245 Watts. PM was around 185 Watts. Similar speeds and times.

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Speaking of Strava, those with power meters, do you find Strava's guesstimation of avg power output to be close.  


If you are using a power meter than Strava is no longer “guesstimating” it is using your actual power meter data so there is no “predicted” value to see—only your actual. It’s probably overkill for a casual cyclist but if you’re on Strava, looking at FTP values and trying to raise your fitness, VO2 max kinda stuff, a power meter is a worthy investment. I am on like year 5 with my Garmin Vector pedals, the second bike with them, and expect to get many more years out of them. If you can get over the $700 investment, per year of use they are relatively cheap. But if you do, do it right. No single pedal version or quasi one crank arm style ones. Two pedal Vectors, crankset ones like Qarq or SRM, or similar.

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Meh...some of the local roads have extended section of double digit grades. I could muscle up the climb with a 25t, I did it for a couple years with a standard crank, but I can ride just as fast while turning a comfortable cadence with the 28 or 32. 
I'm in the top 5% of the Strava times even on the most popular times, I don't think I'm too slow...


If you are doing extended double digit inclines that is legit. I’d still say both compact cracks and wide ratio cassette together make the gear ratio changes per shift rather large and it harder to find that “just right” gear but if you’re willing to make that trade off to climb up a wall, more power to ya.

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4 hours ago, Tahoe Gator said:

 

spinning 100 cadence at less than 200 watts in the granny = slow

 

53/39 + 11-25 emoji123.png

50/34 + 11-25 emoji52.png

50/34 + 11-32 ?

 

Unfortunately, I get a gravity penalty. Fully kitted, I'm approaching 210 pounds. Bike is another 18 with the bottle and saddle bag... So that 200W moves me a whole lot slower...

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15 minutes ago, MarioThePlumber said:

I'd say it over estimates by around 20%

I found a section I've ridden a few times. Strava estimated around 230-245 Watts. PM was around 185 Watts. Similar speeds and times.

That's mostly what I was curious about. I was bored one evening and was looking through the app more, been using it for about a year now, and was curious if it even came close. Seems its about as accurate, as I expected. 

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I will say this: if you’re using a power meter, the FTP estimation is pretty spot on. I tested mine another way on different equipment and got near same results.

IMG_0013.JPG

I’m still playing catch-up to my number last year :-(

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6 minutes ago, Tahoe Gator said:

I will say this: if you’re using a power meter, the FTP estimation is pretty spot on. I tested mine another way on different equipment and got near same results.

IMG_0013.JPG

I’m still playing catch-up to my number last year ?

The app has a built in estimation, based off your speed, and elevation, and climbing/descending stats. 

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The app has a built in estimation, based off your speed, and elevation, and climbing/descending stats. 


FTP is simply based on how long you go at what wattage...that’s what that curve is. What you can do 20 min at is what your FTP is.

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