2011 WR450 Horn wiring

Im not all that well versed with electrical stuff, adding a horn to my 2011 WR450.  I have a 12v dc horn, two prongs, and a switch built into the controls i put on my handlebar.

 

Can i just go....

 

- terminal 1 on switch to horn

- terminal 2 on switch to battery (either post?)

- then a wire from the other battery terminal to the open terminal on the horn.

 

Would that work, would i need a fuse in there?

 

Being that im trying to learn a little on the electrical side, i think i fell into a rabbit hole of ac vs dc, rectifiers, etc.. maybe im way off here, but i couldnt find a clear explanation of this.

 

Thanks.

If the switch came with a wiring diagram, look at which side is positive and which side is negative or the side the load is on. It may not matter, but if they've listed it, follow what they show.

 

When I wired up my WR for streed duty, I used a Tusk multi switch and added a relay which is triggered by the ignition button and a dedicated power line in larger gauge from the battery to the front of the bike for all my dual sport stuff. Note that my horn required 12+ volts to even activate. I pulled power to switch on the relay off of the "Extra" plug block that came off of the trip computer right below it, but this is less than 12 volts since it is in line with the computer and this will not run the horn. I put my horn above the head where the smog equipment was attached so that it would be out of the way. The horn has polarity so you need to attach the power to the correct side. 

 

The simplest thing you could probably do is to run a wire of the appropriate gauge from the battery to the switch then back down to the horn and then back to the battery.

 

Any time you wire anything to the battery, use the correct fuse for the gauge of wire. If you get a short circuit, it will keep you from melting something important. If you blow the appropriate sized fuse, find the short, don't just put in a larger fuse. The fuse should be sized to protect the smallest wire in the circuit that it is protecting. The wire size should be the correct gauge to carry the operating amperage of all of the loads on that particular circuit. 

 

For example, the Tusk horn I used was a 1.5 amp horn. You could use 18 gauge wire with a 3 amp fuse and be fine with that Tusk horn and have a fairly large safety margin considering the type of use it would receive. It is also a good idea to have solid connections which are sealed on the bike (i.e. Solder with shrink tubing and sealed blade connectors). 

Texmic

On 11/10/2015 at 7:03 PM, TexMic said:

If the switch came with a wiring diagram, look at which side is positive and which side is negative or the side the load is on. It may not matter, but if they've listed it, follow what they show.

 

When I wired up my WR for streed duty, I used a Tusk multi switch and added a relay which is triggered by the ignition button and a dedicated power line in larger gauge from the battery to the front of the bike for all my dual sport stuff. Note that my horn required 12+ volts to even activate. I pulled power to switch on the relay off of the "Extra" plug block that came off of the trip computer right below it, but this is less than 12 volts since it is in line with the computer and this will not run the horn. I put my horn above the head where the smog equipment was attached so that it would be out of the way. The horn has polarity so you need to attach the power to the correct side. 

 

The simplest thing you could probably do is to run a wire of the appropriate gauge from the battery to the switch then back down to the horn and then back to the battery.

 

Any time you wire anything to the battery, use the correct fuse for the gauge of wire. If you get a short circuit, it will keep you from melting something important. If you blow the appropriate sized fuse, find the short, don't just put in a larger fuse. The fuse should be sized to protect the smallest wire in the circuit that it is protecting. The wire size should be the correct gauge to carry the operating amperage of all of the loads on that particular circuit. 

 

For example, the Tusk horn I used was a 1.5 amp horn. You could use 18 gauge wire with a 3 amp fuse and be fine with that Tusk horn and have a fairly large safety margin considering the type of use it would receive. It is also a good idea to have solid connections which are sealed on the bike (i.e. Solder with shrink tubing and sealed blade connectors). 

Texmic, can you use that "Extra" plug to power extra lights, blinkers, and or horn?

 

You CAN if you use it to switch a relay to a power lead from the battery. It has less than 12 volts due to the load from the enduro computer and I wouldn't trust it to flow enough amperage without popping something if you wired it directly. It does have enough juice to switch a relay which is how I'm using it. As I stated above, it would not let my horn beep because the voltage was too low. Also when I was powering the brake lights, they were dim. Adding the relay fixed ALL of this with the added advantage that everything turns off when I turn off the switch for the computer.

So larger gauge wire from the battery (with fuse) to the front of the bike to supply side of relay (30). Add a wire from the trip computer to switch side of relay (86). Add ground to (85). Add larger gauge wire to a distribution block or fuse block at output side of relay (87). This then powers whatever you want. In my case, it's powering a Tusk multi switch with lights, blinkers, and horn. The multi switch actually has two inputs. One DC for the switch, and one for the lights which can be AC or DC. So on the WR, I took the regular input for the headlight and ran it to the multi switch for the lights and then back out to the headlight from the switch. This allows me to use headlight in low, high, or off positions. I also added front and rear brake switches so I could be completely street legal. 

Here, I made a rough picture in paint to show what I'm talking about. Note that I don't have any of the outputs from the switch listed. They have this in the Tusk wiring instructions with the switch. You basically need to add everything in the purple box.

I can't stress enough that you need to make sure that your wires are the correct gauge for what you are doing and that you have fuses. You would hate to be out on the trail and melt some wires and be stuck. I've run this setup for a couple years without issue. Even if it had an issue, I couple pull the new fuse at the battery and have the whole thing disconnected. The relay and all the other wiring is concealed behind my light at the front of the bike.

DSWiring.jpg

On 26/07/2017 at 0:18 AM, TexMic said:

You CAN if you use it to switch a relay to a power lead from the battery. It has less than 12 volts due to the load from the enduro computer and I wouldn't trust it to flow enough amperage without popping something if you wired it directly. It does have enough juice to switch a relay which is how I'm using it. As I stated above, it would not let my horn beep because the voltage was too low. Also when I was powering the brake lights, they were dim. Adding the relay fixed ALL of this with the added advantage that everything turns off when I turn off the switch for the computer.

So larger gauge wire from the battery (with fuse) to the front of the bike to supply side of relay (30). Add a wire from the trip computer to switch side of relay (86). Add ground to (85). Add larger gauge wire to a distribution block or fuse block at output side of relay (87). This then powers whatever you want. In my case, it's powering a Tusk multi switch with lights, blinkers, and horn. The multi switch actually has two inputs. One DC for the switch, and one for the lights which can be AC or DC. So on the WR, I took the regular input for the headlight and ran it to the multi switch for the lights and then back out to the headlight from the switch. This allows me to use headlight in low, high, or off positions. I also added front and rear brake switches so I could be completely street legal. 

Here, I made a rough picture in paint to show what I'm talking about. Note that I don't have any of the outputs from the switch listed. They have this in the Tusk wiring instructions with the switch. You basically need to add everything in the purple box.

I can't stress enough that you need to make sure that your wires are the correct gauge for what you are doing and that you have fuses. You would hate to be out on the trail and melt some wires and be stuck. I've run this setup for a couple years without issue. Even if it had an issue, I couple pull the new fuse at the battery and have the whole thing disconnected. The relay and all the other wiring is concealed behind my light at the front of the bike.

DSWiring.jpg

Thanks very much Texmic! I am not so electrical savy, so this is a big help. 

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