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Drz electrical issues

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I recently bought an 02 400e. battery housing was loose and fell off taking the battery with it. I touched the wires to the posts threw the battery in my bag and rode a little further. Stopped at a lake and accidentally touched the wrong side to the posts and couldn't get it started. I was told its probably a fuse. I ant find the fuse. The bike runs when connected to a battery properly but when the battery is removed the bike dies. Any thoughts?

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I recently bought an 02 400e. battery housing was loose and fell off taking the battery with it. I touched the wires to the posts threw the battery in my bag and rode a little further. Stopped at a lake and accidentally touched the wrong side to the posts and couldn't get it started. I was told its probably a fuse. I ant find the fuse. The bike runs when connected to a battery properly but when the battery is removed the bike dies. Any thoughts?

I have no idea how the stater is wired on this bike but it may very well be set up to send power to the battery only and everything else pulls from the battery only. Keep in mind this isn't an official diagnosis, just my first thoughts.

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Originally I thought it was the stator but the people of reddit r/drz400 said it is probably just a fuse and sent me here. I'll try testing it with a universal meter maybe tomorrow to see what the stator reads. Thanks for the thoughts.

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DRZ400S/SM/E models have only 1 fuse.  If anything works, the fuse is not blown.   The fuse is located above the battery.  

 

Take a look at FAQ and find the procedure for troubleshooting the charging system.  Being that it is 13 years old there may be modifications to the electrical system - battery charge wires, Free Power modification, dual sport kits added (sometimes added and removed with wires left over )..................??????????

 

Did you post this before? Sounds familiar.

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DRZ400S/SM/E models have only 1 fuse. If anything works, the fuse is not blown. The fuse is located above the battery.

Take a look at FAQ and find the procedure for troubleshooting the charging system. Being that it is 13 years old there may be modifications to the electrical system - battery charge wires, Free Power modification, dual sport kits added (sometimes added and removed with wires left over )..................??????????

Did you post this before? Sounds familiar.

I posted this a week ago with no response at all. Basically all this bike has is a head light with an on/off switch a run on/off switch. The starter button and kill switch. I can't find a fuse to save my life.

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Perhaps the original post was a double post and you got answers on the twin.  Pretty sure I posted an answer.  You talked about the battery falling off and if you fried the RR with the revers polarity.  You might search for it.  The short answer is yes you might have fried the RR.  It runs with a battery, dies when the battery is disconnected, certainly points to no power from the charging system.  Take a look at the electrical troubleshooting in FAQ to help isolate the problem.

 

Top of the battery box is a place for the fuse holder to reside. It is a 10 amp blade type fuse.  Follow the red wire from the + battery terminal (not the battery cable) should lead you to an in-line fuse.

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Starter relay.  The start button controls the relay.  The relay connects battery power to the starter motor.  That is one crusty motorcycle.

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Still can't find a fuse. Checked RR it seems OK. Only has a .012 difference when checked in reverse. Tested the battery wen running was at 12.3. Where do I go from here

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Start by going to FAQ and follow the procedure to trouble shoot the electrical system.  We need to find out if the stator is producing power.

 

There really is no easy way to fully test the RR.  You can determine if the 6 diodes in the rectifier work but the regulator part is a different story.  Lets start with the stator and see how that tests out.

 

If you can not find a fuse you may not have one.  If no fuse, it has been cut out and bypassed.  You need to figure out how power gets from the RR to the battery and from the battery to the ignition switch.  There needs to be a fuse in the wire from the battery to the ignition switch for safety reasons.

 

Not sure what you mean by only .012 difference checked in reverse?  .012 what?  Diodes should have a large difference in continuity between forward bias and reverse.  I prefer to check with a test light.  There is no mistaking a bulb lights in 1 direction and no light in the other.

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OK to clarify it seems as though the RR is fine . I have 5 diodes 2 connectors 1 with 3 diodes 1 with 2 they check out. I will be checking the stator tomorrow and looking for a fuse of any sort . if I ant find one should I replace the wire and put one in?

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3 phase full wave rectifier has 6 diodes.  Check red to each of the 3 yellows. Then reverse the polarity and recheck .  All should conduct 1 way and not the other.  Then check black to each of the 3 yellows.  You should get the exact opposite results.   6 diodes, 12 tests.

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