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wr450f '09 sag settings question

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Hello! I've bought preowned WR450f '09 a week ago and have some questions about it's suspension sag settings. I have ridden it a couple of times on sandy MX track and in forest. It seemed to me to be soft in landings, but hitting my hands on small obstacles like bumps and roots on speedy sections. Also the bike seemed to me to be very low to the ground, especially it's tail, in comparison with KTM EXC250.

I decided to take measurements of FREE and RIDERS SAG, and here they are (my weight is 75 kg without riding gear):

-Front free SAG 45 mm, Front riders SAG 62 mm.

-Rear free SAG 52 mm, Rear riders SAG 111 mm.

After this, I turned spring nut on rear shock clockwise 2 full turns, to increase the spring preload, and measured SAG again, and below is what I got:

-Front free SAG 48 mm, Front riders SAG 69 mm.

-Rear free SAG 44 mm, Rear riders SAG 106 mm.

Looks like rear SAG, both free and riders, became near to normal after spring adjusting, but front is still too low fro riders and too high for free meanings.

Am I right in my conclusions? Are my front fork springs too stiff, or may be they are worn? What right SAG and suspension settings are recomended for my weight and bike (my riding areas- enduro tracks,  technical uphills,  training obstacles crossing, sometimes MX tracks)?

Thanks and sorry for mistakes.

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Hello! I've bought preowned WR450f '09 a week ago and have some questions about it's suspension sag settings. I have ridden it a couple of times on sandy MX track and in forest. It seemed to me to be soft in landings, but hitting my hands on small obstacles like bumps and roots on speedy sections. Also the bike seemed to me to be very low to the ground, especially it's tail, in comparison with KTM EXC250.

I decided to take measurements of FREE and RIDERS SAG, and here they are (my weight is 75 kg without riding gear):

-Front free SAG 45 mm, Front riders SAG 62 mm.

-Rear free SAG 52 mm, Rear riders SAG 111 mm.

After this, I turned spring nut on rear shock clockwise 2 full turns, to increase the spring preload, and measured SAG again, and below is what I got:

-Front free SAG 48 mm, Front riders SAG 69 mm.

-Rear free SAG 44 mm, Rear riders SAG 106 mm.

Looks like rear SAG, both free and riders, became near to normal after spring adjusting, but front is still too low fro riders and too high for free meanings.

Am I right in my conclusions? Are my front fork springs too stiff, or may be they are worn? What right SAG and suspension settings are recomended for my weight and bike (my riding areas- enduro tracks,  technical uphills,  training obstacles crossing, sometimes MX tracks)?

Thanks and sorry for mistakes.

The 07-11 WR450 open bath forks have a big problem with their base valve. They use a spring and one shim. The spring quickly sacks out and the forks dive into the mid valves. They do not work even if a suspension shop adds two shims the spring still sacks out. Replace the base valves with Racetech or other good base valves that use shims.

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Replace the base valves with Racetech or other good base valves that use shims.

This is not a cheap mod( Does it worth it's value, or  should I better look for used KYB SSS fork on ebay?

 

The spring quickly sacks out and the forks dive into the mid valves. 

Does it mean I need new springs too?

At sunday training I was riding mx track and my fork was producing knocking sound being fully stacked every time I jumped into flat part of the jump.

Edited by Markin

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This is not a cheap mod( Does it worth it's value, or  should I better look for used KYB SSS fork on ebay?

 

Does it mean I need new springs too?

At sunday training I was riding mx track and my fork was producing knocking sound being fully stacked every time I jumped into flat part of the jump.

It's not very expensive and you can do it yourself. It comes with a DVD.

New fork springs are dependent on riders weight and are different than removing the base valve spring for shims.

SSS forks is certainly another option.

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It's not very expensive and you can do it yourself. It comes with a DVD.

 

Type 3 Compression Gold Valve Kit  FMGV 2840  $169.99 - we are talking about this, am I right?

About springs - I am 75 kg, so OEM looks like suitable for me. But I am thinking about you words -  

 

The spring quickly sacks out and the forks dive into the mid valves.

It means - I need new fresh springs? 

Searched for SSS - they are not cheap and also need some work with them, so I decided to go for tuning my stock fork.

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Type 3 Compression Gold Valve Kit  FMGV 2840  $169.99 - we are talking about this, am I right?

About springs - I am 75 kg, so OEM looks like suitable for me. But I am thinking about you words -  

 

It means - I need new fresh springs? 

Searched for SSS - they are not cheap and also need some work with them, so I decided to go for tuning my stock fork.

Yes on whatever the gold valve kit fits your model.

You likley do not need fresh fork springs they should be fine.

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Yes on whatever the gold valve kit fits your model.

You likley do not need fresh fork springs they should be fine.

Accordingly to race tech page, FMGV 2840 does fit my bike. I found out that RT kits are cheaper on ebay than on RT page. If they are the same, I see no reason to by it directly from RT more expensive.

stevethe, do you mean my OEM springs probably can not be worn (sagged) for 6 years of bike life?

Edited by Markin

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Accordingly to race tech page, FMGV 2840 does fit my bike. I found out that RT kits are cheaper on ebay than on RT page. If they are the same, I see no reason to by it directly from RT more expensive.

stevethe, do you mean my OEM springs probably can not be worn (sagged) for 6 years of bike life?

Yes it's best to get them as low cost as possible. If you mention Tumpertalk you can also get a discount direct from Racetech.

I am using my stock fork springs in my 07. Seem to work fine.

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To Markin, as per your posts you seem ride mostly off-road and also occasion MX track (sandy)

that will requires come compromises as you can't have the suspension set-up perfectly for both.

 

Sandy MX track (plus on a relatively heavy WR versus YZ) would require much stiffer springs and valving than off-road settings.

Edited by mlatour

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To Markin, as per your posts you seem ride mostly off-road and also occasion MX track (sandy)

that will requires come compromises as you can't have the suspension set-up perfectly for both.

 

Sandy MX track (plus on a relatively heavy WR versus YZ) would require much stiffer springs and valving than off-road settings.

You are right, mostly enduro, and I need my suspension to be much softer than mx bikes have. But I am also riding contry-cross competitions, and mx track is a part of such kind of race. I am not jumping so fast and high as  motocross riders do, but I need my front fork not to be stacked up to the stop at every jump..

I hope it is understandable what I am writing, sorry for my english.

stevethe it's a good new about my springs, I am strongly limited in a budget.

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I have read a few more topics about WR's forks, and found out that many people replenishes forks with additional amount of oil and this helps with bottoming problem. Also I have read about putting additional shim over the fork spring to increase it's preload and this also helps to avoid bottoming. Can I simply add the oil through breathing holes in the top part of the fork? And where exactly the additional shim for spring preload should be placed?

Thanks.

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Adding preload shims (washers) to fork springs will only affect ride height (less sag), too much preload makes the forks harsh.

 

Yes you can add some oil thru the top air bleed holes with a small tip plastic syringe (no needle required)

try increasing the about 5ml of oil at a time, it's easier to add than having to lower the level.

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Set fork oil level to 120mm from top yesterday, today had a ride, looks like fork became better at big jumps. I added another 5ml of oil into each leg today, tomorrow will test it.

Edited by Markin

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