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Anyone use this clutch for their Beta?

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just wondering if anyone bought and used one of these..just looking on ebay..I'm not even sure what the oem prices would be but guess it would be at least a little more expensive. Looking at getting a new clutch. for a 12 350. :ride:

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331506806515?_trksid=p2255925.m570.l5999&_trkparms=gh1g%3DI331506806515.N36.S2.R2.TR20

 

s-l400.jpg

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Seems like a fair price for a complete clutch-pac, How does it compare to OEM pricing?

Edited by MarkBevans
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Well, this clutch pack type is branded under lots of brands: Moose Racing, Motosport.com, Clutchworks, etc etc.

 

I have tried this kind of kit before, and while it is very reliable, it is not pleasant to use.

 

The abiltiy to do finite clutch modulation from the lever, is gone. 

 

The plates are thicker, and 'treated' for more 'friction', which is exactly what you don't want from steel plates.

 

The fibers are cheap burnished cork, and don't have a consistent feel.

 

The springs are not all the same length, so they do not torque down the same, unles you shim them.

 

I tried these kinds of kits on a CRF450X, a YZ450F, and  KTM. 

 

I finally figured out why I hated my clutches after so many hours....and went back to the OEM pack, and the issues went away.

 

Just saying.

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Well, this clutch pack type is branded under lots of brands: Moose Racing, Motosport.com, Clutchworks, etc etc.

 

I have tried this kind of kit before, and while it is very reliable, it is not pleasant to use.

 

The abiltiy to do finite clutch modulation from the lever, is gone. 

 

The plates are thicker, and 'treated' for more 'friction', which is exactly what you don't want from steel plates.

 

The fibers are cheap burnished cork, and don't have a consistent feel.

 

The springs are not all the same length, so they do not torque down the same, unles you shim them.

 

I tried these kinds of kits on a CRF450X, a YZ450F, and  KTM. 

 

I finally figured out why I hated my clutches after so many hours....and went back to the OEM pack, and the issues went away.

 

Just saying.

So maybe this is like the same as maybe the tusk generic stuff? I liked them for my 525 rfs and my cr 250 ..especially for the price but right now the clutch is dragging a bit too much.. didn't take it apart. just preliminary looking around.. I know guys always liked the oem clutch for the cr 250 but I lost my clutch with oem and said screw it and tried the tusk. It was good and I tortured that clutch to death and it worked great...also it was so cheap i just started buying a new one every year and changing out early just for the hell of it..  Of course tusk was half this price shipped.. like $70 .

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So maybe this is like the same as maybe the tusk generic stuff? I liked them for my 525 rfs and my cr 250 ..especially for the price but right now the clutch is dragging a bit too much.. didn't take it apart. just preliminary looking around.. I know guys always liked the oem clutch for the cr 250 but I lost my clutch with oem and said screw it and tried the tusk. It was good and I tortured that clutch to death and it worked great...also it was so cheap i just started buying a new one every year and changing out early just for the hell of it..  Of course tusk was half this price shipped.. like $70 .

Probably good of course to go oem.. but sometimes I take a chance and it works out great. Or it sucks ass so much and I swear to myself for playing cheap...the regular roll of the dice.

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Seems like a fair price for a complete clutch-pac, How does it compare to OEM pricing?

I don't know how much oem costs.. yet......but I'm starting to go down the slippery slope. That 12' 350rr ex Cody Webb race bike I bought has connected to the main vein in me that doesn't let go. I was just going to just buy and ride it a little and pass it on to someone else. I just wanted to see how the bike ran. I got it for a relatively good price..but now I'm just seeing another thing and wanting to upgrade.. then I see something else and want that better.. so I keep buying and fixing and .. you know the regular bike hoarder thing. The project is starting to take a life of it's own and this was an impulse buy. ..like a bad girlfriend.. and I have a lot of 2 wheel girlfriends..  I went putting around on it yesterday.. didn't ride it much.. just trail maintenance and short  cruise riding before and after .. checking out areas we cleared a bit. You know you are crazy when you didn't even want to want that bike and start thinking about full overhauling and total refurbishing to make the bike brand new....and I never was crazy about 350's anyway.. I've always been more into the big bore 4 strokes.. and of course my 300rr which I already have.. :facepalm:  :smirk:  :ride:   but this bike works pretty good.. but how many bikes do i need.. The disease is strong with this one.. :rolleyes:  :lol:  :ride:

 

..just putting around where we cleaned.. This is the bike I wanna better clutch for.

 

 

 

bad thing is I still have a little part of me that wants to turn this bike into something that looks like this.. and dat's a lot of moola not spent in the best priority column..

 

 

I even have this marked on ebay.. not for any particular smart reason..lol

 

s-l1600.jpg

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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So maybe this is like the same as maybe the tusk generic stuff? I liked them for my 525 rfs and my cr 250 ..especially for the price but right now the clutch is dragging a bit too much.. didn't take it apart. just preliminary looking around.. I know guys always liked the oem clutch for the cr 250 but I lost my clutch with oem and said screw it and tried the tusk. It was good and I tortured that clutch to death and it worked great...also it was so cheap i just started buying a new one every year and changing out early just for the hell of it..  Of course tusk was half this price shipped.. like $70 .

 

Yeah, I forgot to mention the main thing, lack of disengagement.

They use 'thicker' cheap steel plates instead of the stock sized plates with high carbon steel, so you have to pull the clutch in farther for disengagement.

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Yeah, I forgot to mention the main thing, lack of disengagement.

They use 'thicker' cheap steel plates instead of the stock sized plates with high carbon steel, so you have to pull the clutch in farther for disengagement.

Yea...my going cheap might not work this time around lol

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Yea...my going cheap might not work this time around lol

 

How about compromise and get just the friction plates? I bet your OEM steel plates are fine. Just lay them on a piece of glass to see if they are warped. If not, just scratch them up with some emery paper.

 

You can get Pro-X friction plates pretty cheap. 

 

http://www.pro-x.com/search/?search-brand=61&search-model=7655&search-year=2012&search-submit=SHOW+RESULTS

 

Dave has them for under 100 bucks

 

http://shop.getdirtydirtbikes.com/Clutch-Friction-Disc-16-S73013.htm

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How about compromise and get just the friction plates? I bet your OEM steel plates are fine. Just lay them on a piece of glass to see if they are warped. If not, just scratch them up with some emery paper.

You can get Pro-X friction plates pretty cheap.

http://www.pro-x.com/search/?search-brand=61&search-model=7655&search-year=2012&search-submit=SHOW+RESULTS

Dave has them for under 100 bucks

http://shop.getdirtydirtbikes.com/Clutch-Friction-Disc-16-S73013.htm

Yea maybe that way too. ...It's dragging now..not working the best.

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