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bbr front fork again!

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Hi everyone i'm new on this forum and i have a question about crf 230 bbr front fork spring.I've read  a couple of comments about the bbr  fork spring are too stiff especially for someone that's not very heavy.I weight 220 lbs and my question is how will react the bbr fork spring for this weight??I'm a trail rider not track rider

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A lot of us are running a bbr Spring in one side and the stock spring on the other side to achieve close to the

Hi Confederate thank you for your answer,but with one spring stock(soft) and  one spring bbr (stiff) the handling of the bike is not affect?I'm skeptical

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At 220 pounds you need a high spring rate to attain proper Free Sag and Race Sag but two BBR fork springs will be too much.  You will likely need about a .48-.50 kg/mm rate.  You can try one BBR fork spring and one cut stock fork spring with a spacer.

Edited by VortecCPI

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At 220 pounds you need a high spring rate to attain proper Free Sag and Race Sag but two BBR fork springs will be too much.  You will likely need about a .48-.50 kg/mm rate.  You can try one BBR fork spring and one cut stock fork spring with a spacer.

Thank you VortecCpi but what about the handling of the bike with two different fork spring? and i've read about a front fork spacer on this forum and many people have different opinion about efficiency i d'ont now what to think

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At your weight 220,Go with cannon springs.My mini has one BBr spring,it is improvement over stock.If you need buy springs,why buy compromise.My Cr85 forked other bike with cannon springs,work perfect.

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Thank you VortecCpi but what about the handling of the bike with two different fork spring? and i've read about a front fork spacer on this forum and many people have different opinion about efficiency i d'ont now what to think

 

The spacer is only to make up the difference in the amount of stock spring you cut off.  Don;t EVER use spacers to preload fork springs!!!

 

Like any bike, handling improves when geometry is corrected by way of proper Free Sag and Race Sag.  But the only way to make handling truly proper is to fix the damper rods or use emulators.

 

These old DR forks suffer from a lack of rebound damping, which is paramount for just about any type of riding.

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The spacer is only to make up the difference in the amount of stock spring you cut off.  Don;t EVER use spacers to preload fork springs!!!

 

Like any bike, handling improves when geometry is corrected by way of proper Free Sag and Race Sag.  But the only way to make handling truly proper is to fix the damper rods or use emulators.

 

These old DR forks suffer from a lack of rebound damping, which is paramount for just aSomeb

I wonder if anyone here has that on is 230 a Race Tech gold valve fork emulator,and if so what that he think and it if makes a big difference.

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I wonder if anyone here has that on is 230 a Race Tech gold valve fork emulator,and if so what that he think and it if makes a big difference.

 

I used them for a while.  Much better than stock but not as good as Bruce Tripplett's forks for my needs.

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I used them for a while.  Much better than stock but not as good as Bruce Tripplett's forks for my needs.

Ok thanks but it cost well 160$ at crf's only. What do you thinks, is't a good or bad move to buy the Race Tech valve for my bike i'am trail and occasionly sand and rock pit rider i really d'ont know what to do.I have never heard that there was a Bruce Triplett's store in Canada

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Do not waist lot of money on Stock fork improvement parts.Best way Cr85/150r forks.Cheap good way send susp to Bruse Tripletts shop.He can improve the,stock fork.For cheap,I very happy with his mods for the price.If you have the $ go with Cr85/150r fork.I have both to compare.

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If you cut the stock fork springs and add a spacer you will have the correct springs for your weight. Cut the tight winds off at 3", add a 3" spacer. Both springs when cut get you in the 50-51 kg range and the sag will be right. Cutting is simple and cost effective. Then if you want a real improvement in the front sus send the damper rods to Bruce Triplett in the US for modification. You'll have $75 invested and get the best bang for you buck and a very highly improved ride. I'm the same weight and have been using this mod for the past year for trail riding here in Colorado, just awesome difference. Just do it!

 

Spend your money on a good rear shock/spring to complete your sus upgrade.

Edited by sawatch
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Do not waist lot of money on Stock fork improvement parts.Best way Cr85/150r forks.Cheap good way send susp to Bruse Tripletts shop.He can improve the,stock fork.For cheap,I very happy with his mods for the price.If you have the $ go with Cr85/150r fork.I have both to compare.

 

If you cut the stock fork springs and add a spacer you will have the correct springs for your weight. Cut the tight winds off at 3", add a 3" spacer. Both springs when cut get you in the 50-51 kg range and the sag will be right. Cutting is simple and cost effective. Then if you want a real improvement in the front sus send the damper rods to Bruce Triplett in the US for modification. You'll have $75 invested and get the best bang for you buck and a very highly improved ride. I'm the same weight and have been using this mod for the past year for trail riding here in Colorado, just awesome difference. Just do it!

 

Spend your money on a good rear shock/spring to complete you sus upgrade.

 

I totally agree.  For $75 Bruce's damper rods are the best Bang for the Buck by a very wide margin and they can be installed in just a few minutes with the forks and wheel on the bike.  I used emulators for quite some time and they were far better than stock but for my needs Bruce's damper rods are superior.  I am still amazed at how well my CRF230 manages big drops and jumps.  Far superior to the emulators.

 

That being said, stoppers (i.e., big rocks and stumps that stop you cold) are not as good as when I had the emulators.  However, this is something that rarely happens to me so it is no problem.  I will gladly swap a hard stop for the bottoming resistance any day.  Bruce also fixes the rebound damping issue that remains with emulators.  Steering is also vastly improved with Bruce's forks.

 

$75.  No drilling.  No chamfering.  Rebound damping fixed.  No extra spring preload. Can use proper stock-length springs.  Drop them in and go.

 

Like Bruce always tells me "suspension setup is a compromise".

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I totally agree.  For $75 Bruce's damper rods are the best Bang for the Buck by a very wide margin and they can be installed in just a few minutes with the forks and wheel on the bike.  I used emulators for quite some time and they were far better than stock but for my needs Bruce's damper rods are superior.  I am still amazed at how well my CRF230 manages big drops and jumps.  Far superior to the emulators.

 

That being said, stoppers (i.e., big rocks and stumps that stop you cold) are not as good as when I had the emulators.  However, this is something that rarely happens to me so it is no problem.  I will gladly swap a hard stop for the bottoming resistance any day.  Bruce also fixes the rebound damping issue that remains with emulators.  Steering is also vastly improved with Bruce's forks.

 

$75.  No drilling.  No chamfering.  Rebound damping fixed.  No extra spring preload. Can use proper stock-length springs.  Drop them in and go.

 

Like Bruce always tells me "suspension setup is a compromise".

Do you know exactly what kind of damper rod Bruce use,is it a homemade rod or i can buy it in motorcycle store.Can i make the modification or it's too complex.

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Do you know exactly what kind of damper rod Bruce use,is it a homemade rod or i can buy it in motorcycle store.Can i make the modification or it's too complex.

 

Bruce modifies your damper rods from your bike just for your riding needs.  You can not buy them from another source.  He keeps blank damper rods in stock so you should be able to do a swap.  Send him yours and he will send you a set configured from inventory.

 

Bruce has been doing DR forks for many decades and has volumes of books on his shelf for each bike he has ever done.  This is not a commodity item; it is highly specialized work.  Bruce is a genius and a wizard.

Edited by VortecCPI

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Give him a call, http://brucessuspension.net/, discuss your needs/riding style, etc. You can send the springs & he'll cut them. Still under $100 with shipping & mods.

 

The damper rod mod consist of filling the existing holes and drilling new different size holes. He has his fomulas for the hole placement and sizes that will get you exactly what you want from your front forks. Also 100% satisfaction.

Edited by sawatch
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Give him a call, http://brucessuspension.net/, discuss your needs/riding style, etc. You can send the springs & he'll cut them. Still under $100 with shipping & mods.

 

The damper rod mod consist of filling the existing holes and drilling new different size holes. He has his fomulas for the hole placement and sizes that will get you exactly what you want from your front forks. Also 100% satisfaction.

So the bbr fork spring are too stiff,install spacer is not recommended even if i've read that M.r coeshow try that for is 230 and said it works well,Race Tech gold valve is expensive for what it gives as a result.I still have to send my rods to Bruce but i think it maybe expensive in transportation costs and douane.Anyone as another suggestion i d'ont know buy fork spring honda other bike model?????i d'ont know

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ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1447550165.470875.jpg

For a hundred bucks or less, this 1 single item can add several MPH to your speed on fast trails as well as inspire more confidence in your own abilities to be comfortable at higher speeds, especially when carving corners. It goes where it's pointed because of less deflection.

Of course if you don't use one on your OEM forks you will never realize the benefits. And it's not designed to make up for under sprung or over/under dampened forks.

It's basically designed to help your bike go where you steer it and not change directions when you Least expect it to.

I have had one on my 230 for years. I'm surprised that they are not recommended more often?

The benefits far our way the cost and it's a simple bolt on item.

No brainier IMO

I found mine on E Bay. They are available in anodized black or clear.

Any other opinions out there in TT land ?

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I also run a fork stabilizer on my forks. Here in the rocks [Rocky Mtns] it's a necessity to help keep the front end from deflecting wildly. Add in the damper rod mod and correct springs it is as good as it can be had for the stock fork system.

 

SDC17577_zpse1zufnni.jpg

Edited by sawatch

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